homey53
Silver Member
How old is the battery? I still say it's toast.
BX2660 won't start, probably electrical?
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- electrical won't start
dcarman
Bronze Member
Sounds like a bad cable or connection to me. Remember the simplest answer is probably the correct one.
I buy that, but I still don't know where the cables from the battery attach to anything. Is the starter (for example) on the front of the engine, down low, on the sice the bucket lever is on? So where do the positive and negative cables go once they leave the battery?
alexpops
Platinum Member
You have to follow the cables to see where they attach. The black one will typically be bolted into the frame somewhere, and maybe also to the engine block. The red one will have one leg that attaches to the starter hot lug, and a second leg that will feed the ecu/main fuse panel/etc. Disconnect the black cable at the battery before you start messing with the hot side or you have a real possibility of creating a welder.
Your starter will be in the back of the engine to turn the flywheel. Look where the bell housing attaches to the back of the engine. Most I've seen are attached on the left side, but take your clue from the side of the battery your red cable is on & follow the cable. The Heaviest red cable connects to the starter.
Your starter will be in the back of the engine to turn the flywheel. Look where the bell housing attaches to the back of the engine. Most I've seen are attached on the left side, but take your clue from the side of the battery your red cable is on & follow the cable. The Heaviest red cable connects to the starter.
Thanks for that, Alex. Good guidance.
If I replace the battery cables, I have some 14 gauge flexible copper silicone-coated wire, Will they carry the current? and I should have some even larger around here somewhere (for solar system I'm slowly building.) Will the 14 be heavy enough? It is copper.
I assumed the system had a starter solenoid but the Kubota dealer said no, that the starter (negative) goes directly from the battery to the starter. Surprising, so is that true? He also said that the positive (red) lead from the battery connects to the frame somewhere but sounds like the old positive ground systems. Which is true?
So far, I've not been able to trace either battery wire to their destination as the paths seem kinda convoluted and parts seem buried and not easily visible. <sigh> <Calgon, take me away!>
If I replace the battery cables, I have some 14 gauge flexible copper silicone-coated wire, Will they carry the current? and I should have some even larger around here somewhere (for solar system I'm slowly building.) Will the 14 be heavy enough? It is copper.
I assumed the system had a starter solenoid but the Kubota dealer said no, that the starter (negative) goes directly from the battery to the starter. Surprising, so is that true? He also said that the positive (red) lead from the battery connects to the frame somewhere but sounds like the old positive ground systems. Which is true?
So far, I've not been able to trace either battery wire to their destination as the paths seem kinda convoluted and parts seem buried and not easily visible. <sigh> <Calgon, take me away!>
alexpops
Platinum Member
TractorData.com Kubota BX2660 tractor information
www.tractordata.com
According to this ^^ your tractor is a normal negative ground system. Unless this was jury rigged by someone for some reason, You either talked to a salesman who didn't know what they were talking about at your dealer (definitely not a mechanic) or you talked to someone looking to have you fry your tractor so they could replace it with new. 14 is definitely NOT going to handle the amps. your alternator puts out 40 amps, the OEM battery was 535 CCA. For your tractor, you want nothing less than 3 gauge for the battery cables & up to 2/0 wouldn't be outrageous (especially if you are in colder climate & need winter starts). 14 gauge will handle 15-25 amps depending on temperature rating of insulation, 3 gauge 85-115 amps, and 2/0 145-195 amps.
No offense intended here, but based on the questions, it seems that you don't have a lot of experience doing mechanical/electrical repairs on vehicles & I'm guessing you probably don't have a full set of the tools needed for diagnosis/repair/etc. Are you sure you aren't biting off more than you can chew? You are risking a few grand investment after all. You may want to let the dealer (or some other reputable mechanic) get it running for you this time, then invest some time in a community college evening "mechanics" course, or do a ton of youtube mechanic videos to get a handle on what things to look for. I started working on minibikes/tractors/motorcycles/cars over 50 years ago, & supported myself doing it through the 70's, so my perspective of "easy" or "obvious" may be different than yours. ALL vehicles are more complicated than they were when I started fixing stuff, & it's the reason I changed professions in the 80's. I work on my own equipment because I can, & I also know when I'm over my head & need someone with more recent knowledge to fix it right. Just some things to consider.
At least I know when to ask questions. Sometimes I even ask the right questions.
Yes, I know 2/0 3/0 will carry the load. I was just wondering, though, if the huge amperage ONLY occurs during cranking, as even 14 ga can handle a few hundred amps for a few seconds. 2/0 costs about a million dollars a foot nowadays. I recently purchased some...
Yes, I know 2/0 3/0 will carry the load. I was just wondering, though, if the huge amperage ONLY occurs during cranking, as even 14 ga can handle a few hundred amps for a few seconds. 2/0 costs about a million dollars a foot nowadays. I recently purchased some...
alexpops
Platinum Member
5 ft of each black/red for ~$60 is more than enough for your tractor. If that's too rich, any auto parts store will have generic battery cables once you figure out the lengths. If you make your own, you'll need the lugs/crimper/heat shrink/battery terminals & dielectric grease also.
Got the tools, mostly for doing the solar installation by buying the tools and materials as SS budget allows. <sigh>
But no, I don't know Jack...
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alexpops
Platinum Member
There's nothing wrong with not knowing, knowledge is easily gained from study and the occasional mistake ... and in part, that's what forums like this are for ... help you avoid mistakes made by others/use their experience to infill yours/and gain knowledge. At the same time, you've invested in a piece of equipment that should easily last you 20-30+ years if properly cared for. A simple mistake (like using undersized wire) could easily make that investment (and everything around it) go up in smoke (literally). I can't help you in terms of budget, but if you view your spending as long term investment, the cost is minimal over the long run and will help you avoid more expensive repairs/replacements down the road. When I was a mechanic, I'd tell folks, "pay me now or pay me later, but later will be more expensive ... guaranteed". Electrical gremlins are the bane of most mechanic's existence. Something like bad or undersized cables/dirty or corroded connections can lead to perpetually undercharged/sulphated batteries, high amp draw & fried starters, burnt up alternators, etc. Never mind the problems that arise from using the wrong oils in modern transmissions or wrong coolants in radiators, which can easily destroy internal components due to incorrect additive packages that eat the metal. Your call on how to spend your money, as it seems you have multiple projects going on, but for me, a working, reliable tractor is worth its weight in gold for how much easier it makes getting other stuff done.
If you need the tractor working NOW, maybe get a friend that knows a little bit more to take a look at it for you over beers or for the cost of a dinner. Without actually seeing/testing/working on the machine it's hard for folks here to help diagnose your problem aside from general guidelines with the expectation that you have the knowledge/tools/wherewithal/finances to follow up on your own. Some things are easy (oil/filter changes, lubing fittings, cleaning up contacts). Others, not so much & require more specialized knowledge.
Best advice I can offer, as a first step (if you are going to do this all yourself), get a shop manual for your tractor & treat it like your family Bible -- try Messick's, then google online if they don't have it. It will at least show you diagrams of the layout & help you find components. It should also give you relevant specs & part numbers as well as test procedures for various systems. Lots of useful info in a shop manual that you won't get anywhere else or without 50 years' experience on similar set-ups.
If you need the tractor working NOW, maybe get a friend that knows a little bit more to take a look at it for you over beers or for the cost of a dinner. Without actually seeing/testing/working on the machine it's hard for folks here to help diagnose your problem aside from general guidelines with the expectation that you have the knowledge/tools/wherewithal/finances to follow up on your own. Some things are easy (oil/filter changes, lubing fittings, cleaning up contacts). Others, not so much & require more specialized knowledge.
Best advice I can offer, as a first step (if you are going to do this all yourself), get a shop manual for your tractor & treat it like your family Bible -- try Messick's, then google online if they don't have it. It will at least show you diagrams of the layout & help you find components. It should also give you relevant specs & part numbers as well as test procedures for various systems. Lots of useful info in a shop manual that you won't get anywhere else or without 50 years' experience on similar set-ups.