Loader BX23 Cylinder leaking LA210 - rebuild or buy new?

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Hi Kubota experts.

I shut my BX23 down today when I noticed hydraulic fluid was streaming straight down from the curl cylinder on my LA210 front end loader (FEL)

Has anyone expericed removing this cylinder and was it difficult? It looks like the steps are to lower the bucket releasing any pressure, disconnect the hose and seal it from dirt and leaking, remove the pins and bang out the upper and lower pins. Does this sound right and does anyone have any advise on this? Dealer said this was not something I could do and something to the affect there are various pressure and torc settings and would not advise any owner to take this on. I just want to remove this and not do the actual repair to the cylinder. Also is reinstalling the same steps in reverse one takes to remove the cylinder ? Is reinstalling complicated?

Knowing my dealer will want $90 each way to pickup, I was wondering if this was something I could do? I just replaced a torn fuel hose on the bottom of the BX23 and I replaced the FEL bucket pins a couple times, so I think I can handle it.

My next question is am I better off buying new? The reason I am thinking this is it's $450 for a new one and I figure over $200 to have someone rebuild.
If the rebuild doesn't work right, then I figure it's a loop to uninstall and bring back the cylinder for a repeat repair. It's only $35 for all the other parts
that connect to the new cylinder figuring after 12 years and 480 hours, maybe better to do new.

Thanks in advance

 

[Dave M7040]

Hi Kubota experts.

I shut my BX23 down today when I noticed hydraulic fluid was streaming straight down from the curl cylinder on my LA210 front end loader (FEL)

Has anyone expericed removing this cylinder and was it difficult? It looks like the steps are to lower the bucket releasing any pressure, disconnect the hose and seal it from dirt and leaking, remove the pins and bang out the upper and lower pins. Does this sound right and does anyone have any advise on this? Dealer said this was not something I could do and something to the affect there are various pressure and torc settings and would not advise any owner to take this on. I just want to remove this and not do the actual repair to the cylinder. Also is reinstalling the same steps in reverse one takes to remove the cylinder ? Is reinstalling complicated?

Knowing my dealer will want $90 each way to pickup, I was wondering if this was something I could do? I just replaced a torn fuel hose on the bottom of the BX23 and I replaced the FEL bucket pins a couple times, so I think I can handle it.

My next question is am I better off buying new? The reason I am thinking this is it's $450 for a new one and I figure over $200 to have someone rebuild.
If the rebuild doesn't work right, then I figure it's a loop to uninstall and bring back the cylinder for a repeat repair. It's only $35 for all the other parts
that connect to the new cylinder figuring after 12 years and 480 hours, maybe better to do new.

Thanks in advance

Post a couple of pictures and then it is easier to instruct and caution you.

The pins securing the cylinder to the bucket should not have to be pounded out if that is what you are thinking.

They will be secured against rotating in the metal frame on the loader and bucket so the rotation happens in the cyliinder ends where it is designed to rotate.

Unless you have bent the hydraulic cylinder pushrod, repair parts are cheap.

How many hours on the tractor, was it leaking slowly and then increased? Are you certain it is not a leaking hose spraying hydraulic oil.

Be aware of the Kubota warning about checking for hydraulic leaks.

Dave M7040

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Hi Dave - I'm pretty certain it's coming from the circle area around the top of the push rod. It started a couple days ago as a very small spray that I could see hitting the top back of the bucket. The tractor was just fully serviced which disappoints me and I am wondering with new hydraulic fluid and filter the pressure increased as it did not do this before servicing. My BX23 has about 450 hours. The leak got worst through the day and poured out when I curled the bucket. If I raised or lowered the bucket leaving in a stationary position while using the BH, it would slow and to stop. The moment I moved the bucket it would pour a solid line of hydraulic fluid. I will try to post a picture. I've been working in a heavy rocky soil moving an old stone wall, but as I said the spray was immediate when I started working after taking delivery.

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Here is a picture - if you look carefully you can see the stream of fluid falling

 

[Dave M7040]

From what I see on messicks.com your bucket cylinder is a single cylinder not a pair which makes things much cheaper and easier.

This is the exploded parts illustration.

The cost of a seal kit is about $42 depending upon the serial number of your tractor as there was a production change in the manufacturing.

That circle area around the pushrod is actually the end cap of the cylinder #40. Note the round hole in the side of the end cap in your photo.

Dealers who do a lot of hydraulic work will have a special tool that inserts into the hole and unscrews the end cap.

Regular people use a pipe wrench to unscrew the end cap. I have done that many times. It scratches up the end cap but that was never a big issue for me and may not be for you.

The important part of taking the end cap off using a pipe wrench is to protect the chrome shaft. Wrap rags securely around the chrome shaft so you don't have the wrench slip and then the chrome is scratched which is bad news.

Unscrew the end cap a bit while still on the tractor as it will take some serious leverage to get it to start turning. The ends attached to the tractor will act as a vice to secure the upper end of the cylinder from turning.

The lower end of the cylinder with the chrome shaft will pull out when the end cap is unscrewed.

There is a big nut #60 on the end of the chrome rod. Depending upon which seal or o ring is damaged that nut needs to come off. Either you have the proper socket wrench to fit it or better to go to a hydraulics shop with your Kubota parts kit and have them do the work. That is the one part that needs the proper torque to tighten it and may also be hard to get loose.

Removing the complete cylinder is simple and does not need any special skills.

You don't need the dealer for the actual work and perhaps asking the hydraulic place if they need the seal kit when showing them the cylinder may get the seals at a lower price yet.

Dave M7040

 

[Kentuckyfarmer]

Some dealers shouldn't be dealers. The Kubota dealership close to me I wouldn't give you a dime for all the salesmen but the parts guy I deal with is worth his weight in gold. A repair that should be 50 dollars or less and the dealer is trying to soak you hundreds if not a thousands of dollars is not right in my book. If you can operate the machine I think you would have the ability to rebuild the cylinder. Don't underestimate your ability. YouTube has plenty of videos on putting in rebuild kits in hydro cylinders to watch and learn from and once done yourself the feel of independence from the money hungry ones trying to soak every penny out of you they can will deffently make you feel better.

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Thanks Dave for the detailed reply. That was very kind of you.
It appears if a person does not have the tools I will have to remove the single cylinder and bring to a hydraulic place.
My dealer told me the name of the hydraulic place they use which is like 20 minutes from me so I guess I can check there.
My next question is it difficult to remove and re-install this single cylinder? Do the hose unbolt with a simple wrench?
Do I take cotter pin out and do the pin on each side of the cylinder slide out or need a little taping?
Is easy to re-install the repaired single cylinder? Will I manually be able to stretch the chrome rod to attach the bottom pin
of the single cylinder once the top pin is installed?

Last, I was noticing for about $35 I can get all new pins, grease fitting, etc so all parts the single cylinder connect with are all new.
I would think after 12 years the two large pins could benefit from changing or is this if not broken don't fix it?

 

[check]

Thanks Dave for the detailed reply. That was very kind of you. It appears if a person does not have the tools I will have to remove the single cylinder and bring to a hydraulic place. My dealer told me the name of the hydraulic place they use which is like 20 minutes from me so I guess I can check there. My next question is it difficult to remove and re-install this single cylinder? Do the hose unbolt with a simple wrench? Do I take cotter pin out and do the pin on each side of the cylinder slide out or need a little taping? Is easy to re-install the repaired single cylinder? Will I manually be able to stretch the chrome rod to attach the bottom pin of the single cylinder once the top pin is installed? Last, I was noticing for about $35 I can get all new pins, grease fitting, etc so all parts the single cylinder connect with are all new. I would think after 12 years the two large pins could benefit from changing or is this if not broken don't fix it?

Or you could trade it in on a new BX23S!

 

[radioman]

i have taken cylinders apart before -- you do not need the dealer or hydroshop to do it. if you can replace the hoses, then you can pull whole thing off the tractor. just set bucket on ground, pull bottom pin out first - you need the hydro power for this so leave hoses attached. once the bottom pin is out - you can power ff everything and relieve pressure moving fel stick in circle motions. remove the hoses then the top pin. put the whole thing on the bench with rags. the hardest part of this whole job is having the right tool to remove the end . just dont use monkey wrenches -- its ugly and it doest put pressure in right place to undo the end - use a spanner wrench. once the end is out just pull the whole thing out and you will see al the o rings and wipers and etc - just match up the seals in order and replace one at a time, removing each with dental pick tool, and putting most seals on back on by hand. the rest is self explanatory.

 

[bspeedy]

Thanks Dave for the detailed reply. That was very kind of you.
It appears if a person does not have the tools I will have to remove the single cylinder and bring to a hydraulic place.
My dealer told me the name of the hydraulic place they use which is like 20 minutes from me so I guess I can check there.
My next question is it difficult to remove and re-install this single cylinder? Do the hose unbolt with a simple wrench?
Do I take cotter pin out and do the pin on each side of the cylinder slide out or need a little taping?
Is easy to re-install the repaired single cylinder? Will I manually be able to stretch the chrome rod to attach the bottom pin
of the single cylinder once the top pin is installed?

Last, I was noticing for about $35 I can get all new pins, grease fitting, etc so all parts the single cylinder connect with are all new.
I would think after 12 years the two large pins could benefit from changing or is this if not broken don't fix it?

You might be overthinking this. It's easy. If you can perform your own oil changes you can remove a cylinder. Should take 5-15 minutes.

1. Lower loader to ground and shut off engine.
2. Move loader control valve in all directions to neutralize energy.
3. Remove hoses with crescent wrench or open end wrench. Use a backup if necessary.
4. Remove cotter pins or whatever keeps pin in hole.
5. Using a brass drift and hammer, drive pins out.
6. Remove cylinder from machine.
7. For extra credit - manually extend and retract the cylinder SLOWLY to let the fluid out and keep fluid off of your vehicle. The hydraulic shop will appreciate this.
8. Plug hydraulic ports to keep out dirt / debris.

Take the cylinder to the hydraulic shop. No need to order the parts from Kubota as they likely can get the proper seal kit for cheaper. Expect to pay between 65 and 120 dollars for the rebuild. Rebuild should be as good as a new cylinder.

You need to have a relationship with your local hydraulic shop, anyway. They will be your source for hoses and other fittings.

Installation of the cylinder is the reverse of removal. The air from the cylinder will self-bleed. Just install the cylinder and work the loader controls until things smooth out.

Good luck.