BX deck installation for dummies

[Jabroni]

That's because for the MMM we have to get down on ours knees and make all kinds of groaning sounds as we realize we're wearing shorts and the driveway is hot from the sun. The BH and FEL is easier, because we just have to walk around and the hydraulica do all the work.

The degree of difficulty is directly proportional to age. I'm pushing 60.

 

[brinet]

Try this link for a "visual" demonstration:

http://bones.brinet.com/~kirk/tractor.wmv

 

[megaboz]

I couldn't help but laugh. BUt I think I feel everyone's pain. I've ran into all the same issues.

If the shaft goes on easy, the links don't reach (sorry got gravel and it sucks). If the links reach, then the shaft just doesn't slip on. If all that goes well, then I can't get the front support to connect.

And if everything goes on and I am done in 5 minutes. I undo it all because something must be wrong, I'm a big believer in Murphy's Laws!

The FEL raising it up off the ground is a big help, just makes things easier. And I do the strap thing and pull it over, still not easy on gravel, and the one time my strap came loose, well I went over my hill.

If you have short arms, removing the wheel might be the only way. My arm just barely reaches in there. I never thought about changing the PTO engagement, I usually just rotate the blades with my other hand to get it to line up.

 

[mow4fun]

I have done this few times on my driveway and think I finally got the hang of, you definitly need to get on your back couple of times and I don't bother with twisting the wheels anymore.

Taking off:

Drop the deck to the lowest setting, release the front link first and then the side links. You might need to wiggle the side links to get them to unhook. Raise the deck, uncouple the PTO shaft and use the deck wheels to push it forward to drop the shaft. Then just pull it out.

Putting on:

Push it back in, raise the deck, hook the PTO shaft and use the deck wheels to push it in and lock it. Make sure the middle links are aligned and lower the deck to it's lowest setting. Hook the front link first, the deck should be aligned with the middle links. Just lift the deck from each side by hand to get the middle links to engage.

takes me about 5 minutes per procedure now, hope this helps.

 

[Tom_H]

I usually just rotate the blades with my other hand to get it to line up.

If everything is properly lubed and there is nothing restricting movement, this should not be necessary. With the slightest torque from my wrist on the PTO coupling, the entire linkage from coupling back to the blades all rotate.

This notion of putting the FEL on so you can lift the tractor and have more room to attach the MMM...I just don't see the logic. It is so much more unnecessary work. Either you have to take the FEL back off, or mow with it on. In my mind, both of those options are illogical. If you want to lift the tractor, buy a $40 quick hydraulic hand jack and a pair of jack stands for safety. This is far more efficient for a very few dollars.

One TBN member PM'd me and said he'd copied my MMM dolly, which makes R/R the MMM a piece of cake for him now. I keep telling you guys what a difference it makes. It seems to me that a lot of people would prefer to have a PITA to complain about, rather than taking a solution when it's right in front of them.

 

[MoreCowbell]

I'm running a BX2350 with a 60" regular cut MMM. Ironically, I'm OK with attaching the driveshaft. Instead, my biggest difficulty is just getting the deck under the tractor to begin with. I'm constantly having to yang it on different angles as the side deck wheels hang up on the rear tractor tires, then the deck height bolts hang up on the chassis, then the front-center deck wheel hits the front tractor ties, then back around again.

If my FEL is on the tractor, I usually lift the tractor front up to get more clearance. I like the idea of using dollies under the deck. Maybe I'll try that. I'll admit that when I'm wresling this thing I do get jealous of the JD guys with their drive-over mower decks (but that is pretty short lived though).

 

[dennisgw]

The FEL is so easy to put on/off and provides all the clearance you need. This is the only way I change out the deck. Riding over a deck seems wrong!!!!!

 

[fish6942]

I found some simple little individual dollies that go underneath each anti-scalp wheel. It makes the deck alignment soooo much easier. However, I'm fortunate enough to be doing this on smooth concrete.

 

[snpower]

Practice makes perfect! Took me like 40 minutes the first couple of times, and I was sweating my head off. I can do it now in 5 minutes tops. The techniques aforementioned on this thread are great advice although I do not see the need to remove the rear wheel in my case.

 

[tonylumps]

I use the little Dolly wheels from www. moweraxle.com makes it a lot easier to menauver around

 

[Tom_H]

With my dolly, mine comes off in less than 2 minutes. Two weeks ago, I put it on in about three and a half minutes and I was not in a hurry. I have used all the other methods listed in the thread and none works as well as a dolly. The little furniture dolly wheels are not as maneuverable and require more effort. Using the FEL is ten times as much work, unless you leave the FEL on all the time, which greatly limits maneuverability when mowing in close quarters around buildings, planters, etc. I'm sure that others are satisfied with the methods they've chosen, and I'm not saying that's wrong for them. Those other methods are better than rotating the anti-scalp wheels, but my own experience is that nothing comes close to a low profile dolly. Here are some pics:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d1270970765-bota-cave-dolly-mmm-suspended.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing/161319d1270970891-bota-cave-mmm-dolly.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0984-mmm-3-wheel-dolly-casters-picture-10.pdf

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0984-mmm-3-wheel-dolly-casters-picture-17.pdf

 

[keyman1808]

I mounted mine for the first time and it took me about 30 minutes. about 5 minutes just to get it under then another 10 for the hangers. The biggest mistake I learned doing thisthe first time was ....remove the stupid access plate on the bro tek skid plate before installing !! after that came off the drive shaft installed in about 2 minutes. Now the GCK60-23BX grass catcher that is a whole different story that thing took my over 2 hours as one hole just wouldnt line up. Not to mention I cant figure out how to hold it in place while I install the pins. I am guessing that its a 2 person job but I do not have the operators manual so maybe I am missing a step somewhere

 

[Tom_H]

I mounted mine for the first time and it took me about 30 minutes. about 5 minutes just to get it under then another 10 for the hangers. The biggest mistake I learned doing thisthe first time was ....remove the stupid access plate on the bro tek skid plate before installing !! after that came off the drive shaft installed in about 2 minutes. Now the GCK60-23BX grass catcher that is a whole different story that thing took my over 2 hours as one hole just wouldnt line up. Not to mention I cant figure out how to hold it in place while I install the pins. I am guessing that its a 2 person job but I do not have the operators manual so maybe I am missing a step somewhere

I got the catcher/blower/bagger that was available in the year 2000 with my BX2200. That model had the top link permenantly attached, welded in place and unable to pivot. There also was no way to adjust the length. The purpose of this was so that it was impossible for the unit to lower to the ground while fully attached to the 3ph. The diameter of the hole in the end of that arm and the holes in the 3ph were exactly the same. The darned thing had to be aligned to within a 64th of an inch to get the pin through all the holes. There was no play or slack at all the the weight of the thing created pressure in the hydraulic system. I had to get everything as closely aligned as possible, then hammer the pin in place with a sledge hammer. Taking the thing off was worse, because you never knew the right place to stop the 3ph pressure release valve. I had to take a smaller diameter pin of sufficient length and a sledge to drive the pin out backwards. Usually the weight of the unit on the 3ph put so much pressure on the connection that when the regular pin came out, the opposing holes took a big bite on the smaller pin. I then had to crank up, finess the 3ph up and down while trying to jerk the smaller pin out of the holes.

While the MMM is a snap for me to put on and take off, the bagger was just the opposite. I sold it to the legendary TBN member Junkman for half price. I have heard that some later models no longer have that nonadjustable, fused top link. A good design would be to just have a regular top link so you can attach everything while it's on the ground and no hydro pressure, then some other way to lock the 3ph. So, keyman, you are not alone in this. If I still had mine, I'd saw off that fused top link, put a regular Cat. 1 attachment point for a regular top link and use it that way.

Take heart though, my first few times with the MMM were well over a half hour. The dolly, lots of lube, and a refined technique solved the problem. Canter the deck so that you have as much shoulder and head room as possible on the left side. Try to get your head and left shoulder under the tractor. Cock the lock collar back. Use gentle finesse, not force. Rotate the device back and forth 2 to 4 degrees while at the same time rocking it back and forth the slightest bit in every possible direction. If it isn't sliding on, be even gentler, not more forceful. Whenever the stud is perfectly perpendicular to the face of the coupler, and all the splines are perfectly aligned with the grooves, it will slip right on. Eventually you'll get the feel for it. Again: finesse-not force. A dolly means not having to rotate anti-scalp wheels; it also makes aligning everything very easy. A strip on the front edge lifts the chassis of the deck. Holes beneath the blade bolts prevent pressure on those bolts, which would prevent you from being able to rotate the locking connector to the PTO shaft. See links to my pics above.

Good luck!

 

[keyman1808]

I have the newer version on the catcher that hooks onto where the BH unit was on my BX24. I need to find a hydraulic cylinder for the top link so I can just hit the lever and pull it on. That would make lift much easier

 

[BXRICK]

I have a dolly, too, but not fancy. Just a 2x4 (or about - I may have cut it to fit) piece of 3/4 ply with four casters. The problem is, with my slightly lower BX1500, the mower doesn't fit comfortably under the tractor when it's on the dolly.

So, I drive the tractor up on on two 2x4s (one for the front, one for the rear), which raises it 1.5 inches, which is more than enough. That also gives my arms a little more room to get in around the mower and attach the PTO shaft. I agree that's the annoying part; lube, swear, and it'll go, though.

Don't ask me how I know, but remember to remove the dolly before driving away.

 

[rtbmee]

Mounting the deck should not be a problem, If you don稚 have a FEL mounted when you're looking to hang the deck then drive the front wheels up on blocks to get the deck under the BX. I always leave the FEL mounted till I'm done hanging the deck then I remove it.
I never turn the anti scalp wheels on the deck, I just hook on the deck w/a tie down or the chain I leave w/the machine (on the foot well) and pull the deck under the BX. I have a cement pad around the shop; I hear some of you have to deal w/a gravel area. I'd get a couple sheet of plywood to leave on the ground in an area were I kept the BX stuff. Once you've mounted and removed the deck a couple of times you'll get the hang of it.
The grass catcher is a ball buster, every thing ells that mounts to the 3 point hitch goes on no problem but removing the 3 point hitch and all that the factory has you doing is
poor design. I've modified my catcher this year. I'm always having to switch implements so the catcher was a pain. The photos show my modification. The pipe I used is a 1/2" gas pipe filled w/a 1/2" bar stock. Finding a piece of 5/8" solid stock wasn稚 happening so I used what was readily available to me. I simply pounded the solid bar stock into the gas pipe on each end about 12". Be sure the center top pin is lined up before you go welding anything up. I lined everything up then tack welded it before removing it and bench welding it all. All I do now is pick each end of the catcher up and lower it into the hitch coupling then role it forward and insert the top center pin. Hope this helps someone out.

 

[bx2350 owner]

I know this is an old thread but I am new owner and subscriber to TractorByNet so please forgive. I have no trouble getting my mmm off but the mid arms do not lower with the lever when there is no weight on them. They go up fine but cause me to have to lift the mmm a considerable distance to attach. They do go UP and DOWN fine with the mmm attached. How might I fix this? Also, there are many mentions of rotating the anti-scalp wheels on the deck but I have yet to be able to do this as well. I pull mightily on the rings on the pins but nothing gives enough to rotate the wheels. I'm sure the answer is simple but I have scoured the web for the way that type of pin should work and mine just don't seem to.

 

[dennisgw]

Not sure on 2350 but on 2200 (after raising the deck up) you remove the ring from the pin, pull the pin, the wheels will drop unless you catch them, rotate the wheel shaft and there will be another hole that you put the pin through in the new direction. I replace the rings with simpler pins since it was pain removing the rings. Hope things haven't changed much since 2200. I usually use the FEL to make removing the deck even easier by lifting the front end of the mower up, doesn't catch on much then.

 

[GolfAddict]

What Dennis said on swiveling the wheels. :thumbsup:

On the arms not dropping - do you have the 3pt adjusted in tightly enough that without the MMM weight they stay up? I'm guessing you have the adjustment knob on yours like other BX's, and could back off on it.

You can always set it back to your current setting if you have it there for a slower drop of the 3pt that you may prefer.

 

[BXpanded]

To lower the mower lift arms, just reach back and push down on the 3 point lift arms while you move the lever to the down position.