Buying a trailer

/ Buying a trailer #1  

blackjack

Bronze Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2003
Messages
91
Location
SD
Tractor
CaseIH DX33 Farmall
I'm trying to determine how much trailer <b>length</b> I'll need to haul a CaseIH DX33 (same as a NH TC33D) with the loader on and one rear implement (tiller, box blade, or snowblower). I don't have the DX33 yet, so I can't go out and measure it, but I'm looking to purchase the trailer first. I'm looking at a 16' + 2' dovetail trailer (total 18') but want to make sure it will comfortably carry what I want. I'm looking at the dovetail model because I think it will make loading and unloading easier, especially with an implement on. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
 
/ Buying a trailer #2  
blackjack,

I think the best thing to do, would be ask the dealer you bought it from, or are going to buy it from, they should know that measurement.

I think /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Post a picture when you get it, only one dealer in my area carried case and he also had Kubota's so he didn't want to talk about the case /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
/ Buying a trailer #3  
My best advice to you would be to look at the axle weight ratings in addition to the length you need and buy much heavier than you think you need. I know that it usually doesn't code that much to go from 2 3500lb axles to 2 5000lb axles and I almost guarantee you that at some point in the future you'll be very happy you did.

Just my .02

Regards,
Dave
 
/ Buying a trailer #4  
I was going to get a dovetail trailer after I bought my B2910. Then I got to looking at my driveway where it comes off the road and I don't think the bottom rear of the trailer would have cleared the little hill there. So I wound up getting a standard 16' 7000 lb flat bed trailer w/wood deck. I can get my B2910 w/FEL, MMM and any one implement I have on it without anything hanging over the rear of the trailer, and I think my tractor is about the same size as yours. As far as loading and unloading I have never had any problems with it hanging up or digging into the ground during on/off cycles. The only problem I had was that I only had 1/4" clearance on each side of my 72" MMM at the trailer fenders, so I have plenty of scraped paint that needs to be touched up on the trailer. Also single axle brakes are good, brakes on both axles are much better.

I guess the bottom line is the dovetail will give you more room as long as you don't have any dips/hills that will drag on the rear of the trailer. And the standard will probably work fine if you do have moderate dips/hills.

Good Luck, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Buying a trailer #5  
We have a TC-30 and have an 18' trailer (2 3500 lb axles) as transport, and wish I had a 20' trailer now. I need to carry more than one implement at one time, and I did not consider that possibility when I purchased it. I am already thinking about purchasing a larger tractor, which, of course, requires a 10,000 GVW trailer, anyway. Carefully measure and analyze your current and future needs before you purchase.
 
/ Buying a trailer #6  
Hi...


I'll say forget the dovetail... get 6' loading ramps for better incline... with spring assist(for easier lifting)... 18' flat deck...


Dave....
 
/ Buying a trailer #8  
Buy big, you will not regret it.

If you can run a gooseneck, that will allow you to sit your loader up on top and pull forward more.

I have a NH 1925 (TC 33 predecessor) with Loader and a 20' goosneck, dovetail trailer. Fits well to me. Can carry the box blade and the bush hog, and if I got creative could stick the rock rake on there as well.

While the #s work out that you could haul it on two 3,500# axles, and plenty of folks do, I would not be comfortable doing it. I would rather have a bit of comfort margin when trailering stuff.

For my money, at least 18', 20 is better, I like the dovetail and I have slide out / hidden ramps. I like the deck between the wheels so I do not have to go up so high. I like the capability of putting my bucket up on the gooseneck if I want, but that may not be an option for you depending on truck.

No matter what you do, take a second and go through your towing rig and look for the weakest component, IE bumper, hitch, ball, coupler, pin etc. and make sure you are not overloading something.
 
/ Buying a trailer #9  
My old man has a trailer like you are talking about and I have used it to move my 7800 which is probably a little smaller than your machine. If I have the front end loader on and put the bush hog on, the entire trailer is used up, plus the bush hog wants to teeter back and forth on the dovetail which makes chaining it down difficult. I would skip the dovetail and maybe add 2 more feet. I had to feather my driveway out more from the state road because the trailer kept dragging when bringing it in plus it wreaked havoc on the wiring.
 
/ Buying a trailer #10  
I have an 18' dovetail trailer and have to agree with the rear end dragging problems. There are some advantages to it but I would rather have a flat bed trailer.
 
/ Buying a trailer #11  
Dovetail...

I'll add... with it the trailer will bottom out in some inclines...
Again... going with longer 6' loading ramps achieves the same thing without the bottoming out problem...


Dave...
 
/ Buying a trailer #12  
Put me in the same column. I have an 18' trailer with a 2' dovetail and find it to be more hassle then it's worth. It isn't needed for a tractor and once you buy a car-hauler everyone is your friend.

I'd rather have one without a dovetail.

One other thing. When I was shopping for a trailer, there was a great deal of difference in construction among similarly priced trailers. I'm no expert, but I can tell when a frame is made of smaller diameter metal and when wood is thinner and cheaper. Shop around.

My experience was that a 10k pound trailer was at least $500 more than a 7k. Not too much if you price the trailer, tractor, and implements as a whole, but a good 25% premium when considering the trailer alone. My 7k pound trailer with brakes and a spare was $1600.
 
/ Buying a trailer #13  
I just recently went through this exact same question. I ended up with a 20', dovetail, metal deck trailer. The cost difference between the 18' and 20' was only $75 and I am so glad I did it. I already have more implements than I thought I would at first, so the extra length has already paid for itself. The extra length also gives you more options on how you can load all the implements to balance it.

As for the dovetail I would not be without mine. The dovetail makes it possible to load a low clearance vehicles such as a sports car without having to use the long ramps. I can also back my tractor up on the trailer with the 6' rotary cutter with the dovetail and I could not do this on a trailer without a dovetail. Although you probably could with the long ramps but who wants to lug those big things around. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
/ Buying a trailer #14  
I have a 16' pipe rail trailer, bought used for $400. I had to replace the wood and repaint it. I have 6 foot ramps.

It's a little on the small side for my CUT. The brush hog hangs off the end about 2 feet when attached.

If I was buying, I'd look for the longest you can afford, preasure treated wood or metal, heavy axles and ramps. Like mentioned before, you can never have too much space.
 
/ Buying a trailer #15  
I found the deck over axle dove tail a good choice. Not having fenders in the way is nice for wood, block, logs etc.

For the Kubota L4340, I use a PJ 24 foot pintel hitch wide deck over axle tag with a 3 and 1/2 dove tail and two spring loaded ramps. 14K GVW. I wouldn't want to pull it with my 1500 truck though. The 24' is in the 4500 + pound range empty. With the tractor, loader and bush hog, I need at least 20' or the 6' bush hog wheel hangs over the rear. Anderson makes a nice low deck 18' 10K equipment trailer for lighter trucks and budgets. From my towing, I would recommend staying away from the 5 and 6k trailers, they tend to sag and bend if you load them to the max all the time. My last one had the Dexter 3500 set up, I learned to buy more trailer than I need. The PJ axles don't put off near the heat and the 16" E load range tires on the bigger axles are much better than the 15" tires in terms of service life. I've had problems with the 15" tires, the PJ 24' trailer has the 245 R16's with much more load carring abiltity than I need, so they hardly get warm this time of the year.

What do you think a L4330 Kubota (just air in the tires) with the LA853 and a Bush Hog 286 weighs in at? That combination may just be at my trailer's max rating. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Buying a trailer #17  
blackjack,

You might want to get going on the trailer thing, the way Steel pricing is going up it won't be long and the prices will start to rise /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
/ Buying a trailer #18  
My thoughts would lean towards a 20 foot or longer lowboy trailer rated at a minimum of 10,000 pounds with 4 wheel brakes. Sliding ramps. Goose neck would be the best for trailering but bumper hitch with equalizer will do. Conduit enclosed wiring and sealed lights are nice.

I have a 20 foot 10,000 pound lowboy with bumper hitch and cargo box on it. Its been across Canada about four times and was always a little overloaded. It's currently used to haul my tractor and equipment from town to our toy farm.

Egon
 
/ Buying a trailer #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( blackjack,

You might want to get going on the trailer thing, the way Steel pricing is going up it won't be long and the prices will start to rise /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif )</font>

Yep, trailerforless is increasing their prices 6% very soon. Also, that dealer is my favorite, great prices and they have a full service shop and parts department. They have beaten every dealer in the Atlanta area, saved me over $500 on my Haulmark. Their catalog is getting huge allso, looks like an old sears catalog.
 
/ Buying a trailer #20  
I talked to North Georgia Equipment this afternoon and he stated that his trailer suppliers have just raised their prices to him.
 

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