Building rollers for sawmill toe-board

   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #1  

mrtwister

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
55
Location
St. Charles, Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Kioti DS 4510HS
Hello to all!!

I'm building roller toe boards for my sawmill much like the one pictured below.....they are used to raise the small end of a log so the log-center/pith at both ends of the log are an equal distance from the mill bunks which ensures a proper first cut.....my plan is to build the actual roller from 2" gas pipe. My dilemma is that I'm not sure how to incorporate bearings and a shaft to complete the roller itself....I've done multiple searches on the net for ideas but could not find anything to match what I need to do. Can a bearing be inserted into each end then spot welded to secure it before inserting a shaft or will the heat damage the bearing? (assuming I could find a bearing that would fit inside the end of the pipe).....or is there another easier or more efficient way to build this thing?

Does anyone have any ideas or experience building rollers like this?.....any input is appreciated....thank you.....Twister :)

Roller Toe Board.jpg
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #2  
I would look for a bearing that would "press fit".
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #3  
How about just using an existing conveyor roller? You'd spend more time and aggravation trying to make one...

Surplus Center
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #4  
If the bandmill in your avatar is your mill, I wonder why you need any rolling action at all. The log only needs to go up, not back & forth right? (the log stays still while the saw passes throught it)
I would think a 4" or better pipe would provide a smooth enough surface to take what little l/r movement might happen while raising it a few inches.

But to your point, a pipe with a 1" shaft welded solidly through the center of the pipe, THEN going into a bearing at each end with the 1" shaft would be pretty simple. Bearing service would be totally independant of the actual roller.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #5  
What GLyford said. One end of the axle on the roller is spring loaded, so it will fit in between brackets similar to your picture. Roller gets damaged, just pop a new one in.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks to all for your replies.

shadetree: I will check around for one of these press-fit bearings. :thumbsup:

GLyford & Mysfyt: I did consider your option at one time however I'm not confident that such rollers would withstand the weight of the logs which often weigh in at well over 1000 lbs each...this is why I'm thinking of building it from gas pipe and other heavy duty components. :)

Rustyiron: yes the mill in the avatar is my mill and yes you are correct for the most part, the end of the log goes up and down and should not not go back and forth. I do want to leave the back and forth option open however which is the reason for the roller. Usually, these roller toe boards are sold in pairs, one for each end of the log, in case it needs to be re-positioned on the mill, front to back. Rollers facilitate this process. I want to keep this option open....if the roller build goes well, I may fab-up another for the other end which extends the usefulness of the toe boards. To address your last line regarding a 1" pipe welded solidly through the center of the pipe....how would you support that 1" shaft inside the 2" pipe?......washers welded at both ends?...or other method?....I get what you are saying about the shaft going into independent bearings at each end....I presume you mean pillow bearings right?....in any case thanks....you got the gears in my head turning! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #7  
Pipe is for transporting fluids. Tubing is for holding things in place. Don't build anything but hand railings in pipe - it's not strong enough and it's ductile so it'll bend to poop on you under any real weight.

You could build your rollers with pillow blocks if you wanted. I got heavy duty rollers from SC about 10 years ago that'll handle a log easy. Just need to look for other sources like HGR in Ohio or fleabay. HGR's website: Used Industrial Equipment at HGR Industrial Surplus
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #8  
You could call it a washer. I would use at least 1/4" thick and make one for each end of the outside pipe. The shaft through the pipe would need to be solid, and if it were suported within a few inches, 1" thick would be my guess for size. Some cold rolled would prolly be good enough and you might get away with only a crude bronze bushing for the bearings. Very low speed and intermittant use, but a pair of either pillow block or maybe a flange type bearings would be quick and easy, depending on your mounting situation.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #9  
log-taper.jpg
From Cook's Saw
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #10  
There are also flanged bearings made similar to pillow blocks, but made to mount flat on a frame (like a piece of channel or such):

Surplus Center
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you for all your ideas and input....the pipe I plan to use is 2" schedule 40...wall thickness is .15" (or 5/32") thick so i'm confident it will withstand the stress and weight of the logs...I like the Cook's Saw design Barry 1....I may copy certain elements of that one. The flange bearings seem like a good option in this case as well....they are presently on sale at the local Princess Auto for $7.99 apiece...I have 1" round bar so that will be good for the shaft...I also have plenty of washers so I can use them at the pipe ends for shaft support...I'll double-up on them to get the 1/4" thickness...cheers to all..:drink:......twister
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #12  
buy some premade rollers off of Ebay and adapt then to your needs,
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #13  
Check McMaster Carr for conveyor rollers. They have some heavy duty ones with .21" wall thickness.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #14  
I've always found to make something round to fit inside something round so it can go around, is hard to do with out lathe work, but you can get close by what your doing with some washers and a 3/4-1" shaft in the middle and flange bearings sounds good to me. The 5/32 pipe IMO is plenty for lifting a 1000 lb log at one end, it's like a static load vs. a dropping load, might not be the right terminology but dropping 1000 lbs on something will most likely cause damage.

Anyhow if you get the roller made, don't forget the show and tell with pics.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #15  
All you need for a roller is a piece of pipe with a pin out of each end to stick in a hole on your side member mines been working for 15 years and I can use it to help roll a log to position it regardless of size easy.

I implemented this hydraulic out board motor lift to raise or lower instead of a jack.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #16  
I can tell you what I used on my Wood Mizer but I don't know where you can get them anymore. When I built the ones on mine I used the rollers off a steady rest for n American lathe. They use to change them out as a set when one went bad and the maint guys would save the good ones for me. These were usually 2.5 to 3 inch dia and each was 2 inches wide or wider. These cane off the lathes that would turn a 16 to 20 inch dia piece of steel 30 to 40 foot long.
 
   / Building rollers for sawmill toe-board #17  
"All you need for a roller is a piece of pipe with a pin out of each end to stick in a hole on your side member"
Your right, bearings are only needed for high speed and high pressure, don't think the log on the mill is going 50 mph...........
 

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