Building Driveway/Parking Area (over disturbed soil)

[MMH]

I put up a pole barn/garage & had to do a lot of leveling & digging around. I'm finally at a point where I am beginning to start finishing the parking area in front of the garage & driveway and have some questions. Eventually I will put in concrete, but not for a while.

The parking area is 50'x40' & the driveway is 10' by 200'. The soil is ALL expansive clay (I am in western PA). The soil was very much disturbed throughout this process. In addition one corner of the parking area has been built up approximately 18". The driveway connects to the parking area in this corner and the built up
18" and tapers down to 0 over 100' of the driveway (going steeply downhill).

I have not compacted the built up area (or any area) yet. Will rent a 1-1/2 ton vibratory roller. I know that this only compacts 4" - 6" deep, so the built up area will not be properly compacted. I will put in french drains on both sides of the driveway. These french drains will start under the parking area and extend down the driveway. In addition, there will be french drains behind the parking area. The trenches for the french drains will be cut after compaction & will be filled w/ B3 gravel (1-1/2" to 3") flush with the compacted surface when finished. The final slope of parking area will be between 1/8" to1/4" per foot.

Eventually I will put in concrete on the parking area. For the time being, will dig 8" under the final grade so I have room for 4" of stone & 4" of concrete. I will initially put down 2" thick layer of B3 (1-1/2" to 3") gravel. Does this need to be compacted or will driving over it w/ full size pickups for two years do it? I will wait two years to let built up area settle before putting in concrete. Is there anything that I can do to accelerate this time? Before putting down concrete, I will put down an additional 2" thick layer of B3 bringing up total to 4" of gravel (although by that time the bottom 2" will have some dirt/clay in it - will this be a problem?).

Until the built up area settles (2 yrs. ?) can I temporarily finish the parking area by putting down a thin layer of fines/crushed concrete? If I do this,
will I just be able to add 2" inches of B3 when I put the concrete in later on or will I have to scrape the fines off?

I am new to all of this and would appreciate comments & suggestions!

 

[Buppies]

You should consider a single drum roller like a IR SD 70 for compaction of the sub grade and then compact the gravel. Then after time some settling may occur add more gravel then pour the concrete. The names of stone vary depending on region of country but where I am from V-DOT 1 then 57's should work well The V-DOT 1 is the size of a baseball

 

[MarkV]

Personally I think that your initial 2" layer of stone is not going to be near enough. My guess is that it will settle into the soil in no time leaving you a mess. We go closer to 6" when building a base.

MarkV

 

[yelbike]

You also consider a geo tek type heavy landscape fabric. Not the cheap felt stuff from home depot.....look for the better stuff the highway department uses, its woven much stronger. It helps to stabilize the ground. I Think one layer between the clay and the first layer of 3" would be the best approach.

 

[madmax12]

You also consider a geo tek type heavy landscape fabric. Not the cheap felt stuff from home depot.....look for the better stuff the highway department uses, its woven much stronger. It helps to stabilize the ground. I Think one layer between the clay and the first layer of 3" would be the best approach.

I don't know anything about how to build a driveway, but I've been trying to learn.

I'm in the early stages of planning a gravel driveway on what is currently lawn. My understanding, at this point, is dig for a 12" deep driveway. Remove all organic material, leaving a base of sand. The geotextile goes on that. Then, for a gravel driveway, 12" of gravel (I'm in Maine).

YouTube geotextile, some good videos.



Couple of sites I looked at for gravel, so far:

ochshornDesign - Jonathan Ochshorn, Architect - Driveway construction

(this one is concrete, actually)...
Monteray Shores Corolla NC Driveway | kennypiercesconcrete

Build A Gravel Driveway | Ask the Builder

Your Gravel Driveway Awaits, But Are You Prepared? — Gravel Driveway

https://www.google.com/search?q=gra...wHjvoHQDw&sqi=2&ved=0CGEQsAQ&biw=1150&bih=810

 

[boggen]

having good run off is a major thing....

making sure you have gutters on shed and house, and setup things so run off water from gutters does not go into the parking area and drive way is a major one.

but also just general sloping the entire parking area and driveway. so run off water does not go through it. but runs off and away from the area. if that means installing a ditch, so be it.

you really do not want water running down the driveway, but rather slop things so water runs off to the sides of the drive into a ditch. this will help prevent wash outs within the driveway itself.

puddles will be a big one. and getting things so they slope away to allow that run off water to get off the parking area vs setting there in the driveway and parking area. the better the entire parking area and driveway drians of water. less mud will happen.

 

[Ed of all trades]

When I put in my drive the loader dug out the grass on about 30' of a 100 yard long drive, and I have had more trouble with that 30' than all the rest. I can't see anything that would make that part different except he dug the grass out, about 4" deep. :2cents: next time for me it is gravel on the grass if i can.

 

[rswyan]

When I put in my drive the loader dug out the grass on about 30' of a 100 yard long drive, and I have had more trouble with that 30' than all the rest. I can't see anything that would make that part different except he dug the grass out, about 4" deep. :2cents: next time for me it is gravel on the grass if i can.

You are assuming that digging it out caused the problem (which may not be the case at all) .... when, in fact, it may have actually prevented it from being worse than it was ....

Look for the actual root cause of the problem (not enough organic material removed, etc.), rather than just an apparency ....

 

[rswyan]

When I put in my drive the loader dug out the grass on about 30' of a 100 yard long drive, and I have had more trouble with that 30' than all the rest. I can't see anything that would make that part different except he dug the grass out, about 4" deep. :2cents: next time for me it is gravel on the grass if i can.

You are assuming that digging it out caused the problem (which may not be the case at all) .... when, in fact, it may have actually prevented it from being worse than it was ....

Look for the actual root cause of the problem (not enough organic material removed, etc.), rather than just an apparency ....

 

[madmax12]

having good run off is a major thing....

making sure you have gutters on shed and house, and setup things so run off water from gutters does not go into the parking area and drive way is a major one.

but also just general sloping the entire parking area and driveway. so run off water does not go through it. but runs off and away from the area. if that means installing a ditch, so be it.

you really do not want water running down the driveway, but rather slop things so water runs off to the sides of the drive into a ditch. this will help prevent wash outs within the driveway itself.

puddles will be a big one. and getting things so they slope away to allow that run off water to get off the parking area vs setting there in the driveway and parking area. the better the entire parking area and driveway drians of water. less mud will happen.

Good suggestions, thx

 

[madmax12]

When I put in my drive the loader dug out the grass on about 30' of a 100 yard long drive, and I have had more trouble with that 30' than all the rest. I can't see anything that would make that part different except he dug the grass out, about 4" deep. :2cents: next time for me it is gravel on the grass if i can.

Are you saying that 270' of your 100 yard gravel drive was simply laid on top of existing lawn? If so...
Are you saying that the gravel laid on the existing lawn has performed well, while the 30' dug out portion is failing?

I've never built a driveway (yet) but I am confused by your post.

Will you please elaborate?

Thx

 

[Ed of all trades]

100 yards of drive way gravel on top of grass in old pasture on all except 30'. Same 30' a mess and the rest no problem. Don't assume? I would say the same. the rest had more organic matter but it did not hold h2o as the 30' did.

 

[madmax12]

100 yards of drive way gravel on top of grass in old pasture on all except 30'. Same 30' a mess and the rest no problem. Don't assume? I would say the same. the rest had more organic matter but it did not hold h2o as the 30' did.

That's interesting. Did they lay anything between the grass and gravel (I'm guessing not, but figured is ask anyway). And I'm figuring there was nothing placed below the gravel in the dug out 30'.

How long have u had this driveway like this? I wonder why it has worked out that way?

Would u be able to post a few pics?

Thank you for answering questions.

 

[Ed of all trades]

we have used this drive for over seven years and no we just had the dump truck spread the gravel and I have smoothed it out a little with a landscape rake. Just had to go back over the 30 ft several times more than the rest over the years with a good bit more gravel. My wife has her camera maxed out and I don't have one. I think The dug out part held water more than the rest of the drive. That is the only thing I can come up with.

 

[madmax12]

we have used this drive for over seven years and no we just had the dump truck spread the gravel and I have smoothed it out a little with a landscape rake. Just had to go back over the 30 ft several times more than the rest over the years with a good bit more gravel. My wife has her camera maxed out and I don't have one. I think The dug out part held water more than the rest of the drive. That is the only thing I can come up with.

That is absolutely wild! The biggest reason I got a tractor was so I could regrade my property and d i g... For a big gravel driveway.

Please don't tell me I could have just dumped a load of gravel on the lawn...

I kind like having the tractor...u know?

Thanks for responding.

I don't know what to make of it. Gravel on grass...success for 7 years.

Wow!

 

[MarkV]

It all depends on the type of soil you have. Here in N. Georgia we have clay that makes a fine base for gravel. My folks in Illinois have rich deep top soil that has to be removed if you want gravel to hold up.

MarkV

 

[yelbike]

It all depends on the type of soil you have. Here in N. Georgia we have clay that makes a fine base for gravel. My folks in Illinois have rich deep top soil that has to be removed if you want gravel to hold up.

MarkV

I'm wondering how geo textile fabric would help if your folks were to leave the top soil, lay the fabric then gravel.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I agree with Markv It depends on the soil, what works in one place might or might not work 5 mi away not to say a distant state.

 

[Egon]

Building a Driveway?

Start with a plan--- get elevations and make a drainage plan---dig out organic material---backfill and compact to the grade you want---lay down four in. or so of crushed gravel and compact---clean up drainage areas so water can drain freely.

Remember clay and granulars need different types of compaction and use different methods to achieve compaction.

Save the geotextile fabric money and spend it on gravel!:thumbsup:

 

[schmism]

If you cut the sod off (like rent a sod cutter) the remaining topsoil will have about 3% organics.... typical accepted fill material for road construction is less than 10% organics.

compact ground with sheepsfoot roller.

Cut ditches (HD rear blade) and pull all material up ontop of the new drive. this creates a new drive that is higher than existing ground. This also gives you a chance to cut/fill areas that need it (with box blade).

compact new graded material with sheepsfoot roller.

start with 2" rock (the larger the rock the more weight it can take) spread it 4" layer drive on that for 6 months.

add 2-4" of 1" minus crushed limestone or recycled concrete or recycled asphalt. For a great result have a paveing company put down the 1" minus through a paveing machine. leaves a compacted surface that looks like concrete, will be uniform in depth, and have proper crown built into it.

This will give you a drive that is smooth, has good base that is compacted and settled and drains water well.