Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[J F]

But let's not dwell on the negative, you guys are probably right and the electricians did everything properly under the covers.


I think it's just me commenting so far Stu, and I definitely don't know about the blue part.

On the bright side, the HVAC install looks really good to me. However, it looks like I still don't see the humidifier. Word to the wise, be very careful how they hook this into the water supply. I have 100% copper pipe in my house. When I am sleeping and the furnace turns on/off, I get a minor "water hammer" because of the humidifier. Turns out they tapped directly into a water supply line rather than tee-ing it off. Does anybody out there know how the proper way to plumb this to avoid the hammer effect?
-Stu

My washing machine does this when using warm (hot/cold mixed)...I'm hoping to move before delving into it.

Hopefully you'll get a useful reply from someone with some plumbing experience, 'cause it definitely is not me. Cheers.

 

[FairfaxStu]

I think I am with you Jay. Turning on and off faucets does not exhibit the same behavior. I can hear the water running but I don't hear the on/off hammer. I suspect it is because of the fact that things like humidifiers, washers, dishwashers use solenoids to turn the water on and off very quickly - much more so than you would normally do by hand. The question remains to all plumbing experts out there: Is there a way to fix this?
-Stu

 

[pclausen]

Yeah, they just put on the switches and receptacles this afternoon. Freeing the box is something the painters are responsible for I believe. They should be back Wednesday.

Yes, I need to catch the HVAC guys and find out about the humidifier and how they plan to tie it into the water supply. I have a water hammer in my house I have never been able to figure out. It only occurs when someone is using the upstairs guest bathroom. It is the pipe(s) in the wall going to the upstairs bathroom, which happen to be one of the master bedroom walls. Quite annoying.

 

[Ranger Rick]

On the bright side, the HVAC install looks really good to me. However, it looks like I still don't see the humidifier. Word to the wise, be very careful how they hook this into the water supply. I have 100% copper pipe in my house. When I am sleeping and the furnace turns on/off, I get a minor "water hammer" because of the humidifier. Turns out they tapped directly into a water supply line rather than tee-ing it off. Does anybody out there know how the proper way to plumb this to avoid the hammer effect?
-Stu

Install a T fitting with a water hammer arrestor in one leg of the T just before the humidifier. When I remodeled my kitchen I was required to put one one the dishwasher and the on ice maker supply lines. Rick

 

[mjncad]

Yeah, I'll talk to the builder about the possibility of picture framing the outside edge. I think he can get in there with a circular saw and cut out enough of the ends to drop in some square edge Trex.

Day 109

Supply duct work

Return duct work

The box in the wall for this pair of switches is off quite a bit. Will be interesting to see how they will get the trim plane on

And Verizon were here putting in the phone line. They used one of those "plows" that buries the line in a single step. Surface damage was minimal.

I like how they properly bifurcated the supply ductwork to branch out in both directions! :thumbsup: Most HVAC contractors including the one who built Casa Lemon as I call our place just do a simple tee and the supply air bullheads into the duct wall instead of being directed in a smooth and controlled manner. Extra kudos to the HVAC guys for insulating your return ducts too!

I have never seen Decora style switches with the extra swoop in them.

ARRRRGH! I hate when the CATV and phone companies use the cable puller/plow to bury the lines as the cables are only buried a few inches (<6") at best in my neighborhood. I can't tell you how many times the phone/cable companies have been out here (my neighborhood) to splice and redo complete lines because it's easy to damage them with tillers, aerators, tractors, etc. They're to dam cheap to put the stuff in conduit at a decent depth; but they have no problem spending money over and over again redoing the wiring. Idiots.

However, it looks like I still don't see the humidifier. Word to the wise, be very careful how they hook this into the water supply. I have 100% copper pipe in my house. When I am sleeping and the furnace turns on/off, I get a minor "water hammer" because of the humidifier. Turns out they tapped directly into a water supply line rather than tee-ing it off. Does anybody out there know how the proper way to plumb this to avoid the hammer effect?
-Stu

Stu:

I had this problem with our humidifier, and I solved it with a water hammer arrester. I sized the arrester for icemaker tubing and used this brand's product. Just install it before your solenoid valve. Sioux Chief There are other brands out there. Don't use the simple air chamber shock absorber because eventually the air dissolves into the water and you're back to square one.

 

[mkane09]

I have a water hammer in my house I have never been able to figure out. It only occurs when someone is using the upstairs guest bathroom. It is the pipe(s) in the wall going to the upstairs bathroom, which happen to be one of the master bedroom walls. Quite annoying.

I'm certainly no plumber, but when we built my dad's house, we plumbed (plastic pipe) a vertical T into at least some of the fittings with a 1 foot leg going up. It was just capped to form an air chamber above the fitting. I was told then that we did that to stop the hammer effect. Never had a problem with hammering...

mkane09

 

[SPIKER]

I'm certainly no plumber, but when we built my dad's house, we plumbed (plastic pipe) a vertical T into at least some of the fittings with a 1 foot leg going up. It was just capped to form an air chamber above the fitting. I was told then that we did that to stop the hammer effect. Never had a problem with hammering...

mkane09

MKane we always have done the same, (I'll show one of my jobs pics) (light blocks some of it though.
the Incoming Line 1" Copper goes up the outside wall to a 1" "T" fitting, continues up to a 2nd 1" "T" Fitting where a small pressure tank will be plumbed in. that "T" continues UP and into a "90" and out 4" and is capped.



going out farther and back are some lines for the washer and a sink, they loop down to the left and has a "T" in 1/2" Copper at the end of the orange PEX-AL-PEX that I had left over from the radiant floor. (Harder to run that standard PEX & less damage prone.) I have a dual shutoff valve "Teed" in with a 8" capped riser that can't bee seen. the DUAL shutoff valve is for Washer and Sink.

Mark

 

[SPIKER]

I'm certainly no plumber, but when we built my dad's house, we plumbed (plastic pipe) a vertical T into at least some of the fittings with a 1 foot leg going up. It was just capped to form an air chamber above the fitting. I was told then that we did that to stop the hammer effect. Never had a problem with hammering...

mkane09

MKane we always have done the same, (I'll show one of my jobs pics) The light blocks some of it though.

Job is a small bathroom in the downstairs corner of my pole barn, I have a Adding TILE SHOWER post in this same projects thread.


the Incoming Line 1" Copper goes up the outside wall to a 1" "T" fitting, continues up to a 2nd 1" "T" Fitting where a small pressure tank will be plumbed in. that "T" continues UP and into a "90" and out 4" and is capped.



going out farther and back are some lines for the washer and a sink, they loop down to the left and has a "T" in 1/2" Copper at the end of the orange PEX-AL-PEX that I had left over from the radiant floor. (Harder to run that standard PEX & less damage prone.) I have a dual shutoff valve "Teed" in with a 8" capped riser that can't be seen. the DUAL shutoff valve is for Washer and Sink.

Mark

 

[jinman]

Pete, the problem with the vibratory cable plow is that you will soon have no trace whatsoever of where the cable is buried. I suggest some semi-hidden reference objects right over the line so you can sight between two to locate the line. Of course, the phone company will come and find the lines for you, but why not mark the location in some easily distinguishable manner for your use. An alternative is to take lots of pictures right over the line and maybe measure some distances from fixed objects and record them.

 

[sixdogs]

Pete, the problem with the vibratory cable plow is that you will soon have no trace whatsoever of where the cable is buried. I suggest some semi-hidden reference objects right over the line so you can sight between two to locate the line. Of course, the phone company will come and find the lines for you, but why not mark the location in some easily distinguishable manner for your use. An alternative is to take lots of pictures right over the line and maybe measure some distances from fixed objects and record them.

I sunk some big nails four inches down near the line and at an exact distance away from it. Made a map of the line and nails and could easily find it with a metal detector.