Building a Shop / Weld Table

MOTractor · Jun 12, 2018

It rolls, and it rolls easy!! My son came over on Saturday and did a lot of welding. My neighbor helped me flip it over and install casters late that afternoon. I've already gotten it dirty, had to work on a couple PTO shafts on Sunday.

We did a bunch of practice on the 1/2 nuts before we welded them on the receivers. I drilled 9/16 holes in the tube and inserted the bolt from inside the tube, nut on the outside, tightened it while keeping it centered. I covered the exposed threads with nozzle gel. We did 3 very small tacks to start, then we welded. We did not start the weld at the junction of nut and tube, instead started it on the tube about 1/4 - 3/8 away, and walked it up the side of the nut. We welded every other flat. Let it air cool and then used a box end (12pt) to the get bolt out. Since I had it, I ran a thread chaser / cleaner through them. They can out great, the nuts are level, centered on the hole, the bolts thread in easily by hand.

The casters were worth every penny I can roll the table using 2 fingers. I really have to get the floor locks on!

It was a good weekend! It's not done, have a lot of small things to do: Clamp racks, grinder rack, electrical outlets, expanded metal on bottom shelf, mig gun holders, paint, floor locks... The first receiver attachment project - the vise.

Big Barn · Jun 12, 2018

Looking good!

MOTractor · Jun 21, 2018

Worked on the vise mount for the receiver tube this last weekend. None of it is "welded" yet, just tacked together to see if I like the height and positioning away from the table. And of course I was supervised by Bella the shop dog...

Anyone see anything that jumps out at them about the design - input always welcome.

This weekend I will adjust it if needed and weld it up. Next is the expanded metal bottom shelf and electrical outlets.

BukitCase · Jun 22, 2018

- - - STOP - - -

If you haven't already welded your vise insert yet, I would STRONGLY recommend one of three things -
Either vee out everywhere the tacks are NOT before welding it up, or

Cut those tacks out, and either

fit the pieces back up, but space them apart (washers work good, keep the weld lines parallel but with a gap), or

Bevel at least 2/3 of the material thickness on all edges... (my preferred method)

THEN re-tack and weld it up - (you can pry the washers out AFTER tacking and BEFORE weld, if you used 'em)

Reason for this - it's a VISE. Unless you're only EVER gonna use it to work on jewelry or watch repair, sooner or later you're gonna want to clamp something HARD and grab a big hammer (or cheater bar) - when that happens, it would be nice if your welds had good penetration...

If you were already gonna do something like the above, then don't bother reading this

...Steve

MOTractor · Jun 22, 2018

BukitCase said:
- - - STOP - - -

Snip

Bevel at least 2/3 of the material thickness on all edges... (my preferred method)

If you were already gonna do something like the above, then don't bother reading this ...Steve

I almost missed this, you were to subtle :laughing:

I was not going to do that, but it makes sense... I will cut it apart and bevel the edges, re-tack and then weld. I might get my son to weld it for me, he is a much better welder, I am still a newby. Thanks for the advice!

I plan on making a few knives, but no watch repair :laughing:

BukitCase · Jun 22, 2018

Good plan - I woulda been more brazen with the warning, but that's the biggest text size they offer :laughing:

Example of building things stronger than you "think" you need - this

is my 6" vise - 1/4"wall receiver tube welded thru the 1/2" thick flat bar that's welded across both ends of a piece of 10" heavy channel with the 6" vise bolted to the channel - whole thing weighs just under 100 lbs; that small chain above the vise is hooked to a bar above so I can get the vise into/out of its receiver on the bucket.

The hydraulic cylinder rod clamped in the vise needs its piston bolt (far right in the pic) torqued to 300 foot pounds (the torque wrench in the pic is 32" long, and my shoulder STILL hurts from pulling on it til it clicked

)

The NEXT cylinder I need to do requires that bolt (but bigger) torqued to 1000-1200 foot pounds, and will involve a 6' cheater bar on a 1" drive breaker bar (didn't wanna spend over $1000 for a torque wrench I'd use ONCE, and even RENTING one cost as much as the 3/4" drive wrench in the pic) -

Point is, I'm pretty sure the vise/mount won't go anywhere - that can really be unpleasant with that kind of forces at work... Steve

GLyford · Jun 22, 2018

Looking at what these guys used to break their piston nut free, I'm thinking you might have gotten off easy...

BukitCase · Jun 22, 2018

Actually, those JD cylinders look a LOT easier to get the glands off than Case - I watched that whole thing thinking "Logger Wade" needed to get a 1" impact, then AFTER they "shade treed" everything, they spun the nut off with the tool I woulda grabbed FIRST

On the one cylnder I have to do that's torqued over 1000 lbs, I'll probably pull the barrel and leave the rod on the hoe, that'll be as good an anchor for the rod end as any vise - my 1" impact's good for about 1800 lbs, so taking it apart might not be too bad. I'll just need to think it ALL the way thru so I end up torquing the piston bolt back in a position that lets me use a 6' cheater - that way I can just sit near the end of the cheater and it's DONE (maybe bounce a little too

) ...Steve

GLyford · Jun 22, 2018

I think he mentioned in the comments that the impact wasn't a great unit and wasn't up to it by itself...

MOTractor · Jun 22, 2018

I have no frame of reference, but a 1 impact that delivers 1800 lbs torque sounds like a - hold my beer, watch this moment

BukitCase · Jun 22, 2018

Nah, they're PERFECT for those STUBBORN watch repairs - the trick is how to keep all the 1/8 to 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2 to 3/4 to 1" adapters from wobblin' too much :laughing:

I musta missed the comment about the impact; oh well, at least they "goterdun", and I didn't notice any spilt beer so it's a win-win

...Steve

Oh well, good for a laugh; more than I can say for my Jet 7x12 bandsaw, dang thing locked up on me while cutting some 3x8 tubing for container supports - acts like (I hope) maybe a set screw in the gearbox loosened up, input shaft turns almost 45 degrees before the blade moves

it's inside one of the containers (NOT cool in nice weather) - maybe it'll cool off enough after dark (got a fan blowing into it) so I can get the oil out of it to see what's what - hoping I get to it BEFORE I need to throw parts at it...

GLyford · Jun 22, 2018

I want to say there is at least one other cylinder repair video out there where there is a crew using a crane on a service truck to turn a shop made wrench burnt out of plate with a clevis on the end.

But I think I am getting a little far afield from the OPs welding table. I think you have made your point that a well mounted vise is an asset for later work.

I ended up throwing a chunk of 6x6 upright to just under the vise on my garage bench because doing things like bending rebar would move the whole bench (hickey bender, what's that...?)

Big Barn · Jun 22, 2018

GLyford said:
I want to say there is at least one other cylinder repair video out there where there is a crew using a crane on a service truck to turn a shop made wrench burnt out of plate with a clevis on the end....?)

I've done similar on big machines. I use one of our piggyback forklifts (the type Home Depot etc have on the back of their delivery trucks) and push DOWN on the wrench with the forks.

I'm kinda old school that way. Lifting UP on a big homemade wrench with power conjures up even MORE scary scenarios.

Ford850 · Jun 23, 2018

MOTractor said:
It rolls, and it rolls easy!! My son came over on Saturday and did a lot of welding. My neighbor helped me flip it over and install casters late that afternoon. I've already gotten it dirty, had to work on a couple PTO shafts on Sunday.

We did a bunch of practice on the 1/2 nuts before we welded them on the receivers. I drilled 9/16 holes in the tube and inserted the bolt from inside the tube, nut on the outside, tightened it while keeping it centered. I covered the exposed threads with nozzle gel. We did 3 very small tacks to start, then we welded. We did not start the weld at the junction of nut and tube, instead started it on the tube about 1/4 - 3/8 away, and walked it up the side of the nut. We welded every other flat. Let it air cool and then used a box end (12pt) to the get bolt out. Since I had it, I ran a thread chaser / cleaner through them. They can out great, the nuts are level, centered on the hole, the bolts thread in easily by hand.

The casters were worth every penny I can roll the table using 2 fingers. I really have to get the floor locks on!

It was a good weekend! It's not done, have a lot of small things to do: Clamp racks, grinder rack, electrical outlets, expanded metal on bottom shelf, mig gun holders, paint, floor locks... The first receiver attachment project - the vise.
View attachment 558162

Looks great! The only thing I would recommend is to round the sharp corners of the caster mounting plates to save yourself some ankle pain.

MOTractor · Jun 27, 2018

Ford850: I will round those corners.

I did shed a tear, but I cut the vise mount apart

After taking it apart I ground off the tacks and beveled the edges. My son and I welded it up this last weekend - he more than I! Tonight I will clean it up and give it a coat of primer. Also on tonight's list is to cut the expanded metal shelf to fit.

BukitCase · Jun 29, 2018

"I did shed a tear"

I completely understand; I felt so bad having to say something that it took 3 times reading your post before I finally decided I'd be doing you MUCH LESS of a favor by NOT saying something; as it is, it looks like your welds should have no problem meeting or exceeding the parent metal strength... Steve

MOTractor · Jul 12, 2018

And it's done (part 1) Since I have about 11 Pics I will split this between two posts.

Weekend before last I finished up the basic construction of the table. I added clamp holders to both ends and the expanded metal bottom shelf. Also welded a piece of angle iron on each corner near the top as a ground clamp attachment point. And finally: welded the 3/8 x 5 x 5 plates (4) under the bottom rails for the floor locks. Now that I have it together, time to take it apart - took off the casters and floor locks to prep for painting

MOTractor · Jul 12, 2018

And it's done (part 2)

Spent a few evenings priming and painting, flip the table, rinse and repeat I got really sick of flipping that table!

After the painting I put the casters and floors locks back on. Then added the electric wiring - Done! Of course my shop supervisor was there every step of the way.

I have to thank TBN members: All the good ideas I incorporated into the table came from this forum! Any goofs, they were mine :laughing:

Time to figure out a couple hold downs to fit the receivers for working with pipe. I start another thread for that.

I think I will do one more post: Kind of wrap up what I did, why, and how. May help someone down the road.