Building A Shell Garage.

[warburtonplayer]

The $30 square foot is from the builder who built my house now. I really want to use him. he othe bids I had some were upwards of $50 an hour? I have a existing building 24x26 enclosed car port with a 12 foot door on in and 2 walk in doors I will be trading the concrete guy for the Slab. All I need to do is pay the $1500 for the concrete. Total $ for the job would have been about $4800 to dig the footers at 3 feet because I have shrink swell soil. That will cut some cost off the top and also I will have the pluming roughed in the building but not hooked up the septic I will do this at a later date. Im tryin to cut as much of the front end of the deal as possible. With me doing the concrete deal the shingles, sidding and the roll up doors I have dropped about $10000 of already so Im sittin around $15000 for the job. Still seams a bit high but I want the job done the right way.

 

[Donsyl]

Hey Warburtonplayer, A friend of mine here in arkansas is suppose to have a 18 x 22 slab poured for his shop and he said it is about $500. But he is getting some kind of concrete with fiberglass in it and he said it is strong and much cheaper........He is gonna build the forms himself, so all the contractor does is pour the concrete...........Good luck....Don

 

[warburtonplayer]

Yeah it would be reall cheap but since I have shrink swell the footer have to be 3 foot deap and have twice the metal, I am also going to have fiber put into the mix its only $50 a bag.

 

[George2615]

I live in VA. I would like to know about how much it would cost me to have a contractor pour a 36x26 slab and just frame the walls trusses rough in the pluming in the loft. I will put the shingles on and the siding. All I need is all the framing done. Any thoughts?

I just added a pole barn addition to my garage. I used 4000 psi mix with fiber added. Mine was a little smaller than yours. (16 x 32 plus a 2 x 10 apron) cement price alone was $1030 plus tax for 10 yds including the fiber. ($95 a yd x 10 yd, plus $80 for fiber mixed in in this part of the country) I supplied the wire mesh and paid my own contractor to install and finish the cement work. Your floor is almost double the size of mine in sq.ft. I found it best to ask friends who they used for floor work and got a better deal on labor paying cash.

Can't help price the framing since I did my own structure, roof, and siding.

 

[Builder]

I just added a pole barn addition to my garage. I used 4000 psi mix with fiber added. Mine was a little smaller than yours. (16 x 32 plus a 2 x 10 apron) cement price alone was $1030 plus tax for 10 yds including the fiber. ($95 a yd x 10 yd, plus $80 for fiber mixed in in this part of the country) I supplied the wire mesh and paid my own contractor to install and finish the cement work. Your floor is almost double the size of mine in sq.ft. I found it best to ask friends who they used for floor work and got a better deal on labor paying cash.

Can't help price the framing since I did my own structure, roof, and siding.

That's the best thing to do-ask others who have done similar work and go with bids from their references.

 

[BearKiller]

I live in VA. I would like to know about how much it would cost me to have a contractor pour a 36x26 slab and just frame the walls trusses rough in the pluming in the loft. I will put the shingles on and the siding. All I need is all the framing done. Any thoughts?

There are way too many variables to be considered within your question to get a good answer.

There is easily several hundred to several thousand dollars difference between any two outwardly identical buildings, due to differences in quality of construction.

I see these quicky truss-roofed pole-barns and stud-wall garages thrown up that are so flimsy that I don't see them lasting through the first windy day; many don't.

Many will disagree, but I highly dislike trusses as being weak and flimsy; their only advantage is being quick and cheap; proper rafters are by far the best stoutest way to go.

Many don't even plate the top stringer; others double and even triple plate the top.

Some use 4x4s; others use 5x5s or 6x6s.

Some set flimsy trusses on four-foot centers while others will use rafters on 16-inch centers.

To get a good idea of what your money is buying, one must be very specific when asking for quotes and make sure what you specified is what you get after the nails are driven.

I hope this helps in your decisions.

 

[Builder]

There are way too many variables to be considered within your question to get a good answer.

There is easily several hundred to several thousand dollars difference between any two outwardly identical buildings, due to differences in quality of construction.

I see these quicky truss-roofed pole-barns and stud-wall garages thrown up that are so flimsy that I don't see them lasting through the first windy day; many don't.

Many will disagree, but I highly dislike trusses as being weak and flimsy; their only advantage is being quick and cheap; proper rafters are by far the best stoutest way to go.

Many don't even plate the top stringer; others double and even triple plate the top.

Some use 4x4s; others use 5x5s or 6x6s.

Some set flimsy trusses on four-foot centers while others will use rafters on 16-inch centers.

To get a good idea of what your money is buying, one must be very specific when asking for quotes and make sure what you specified is what you get after the nails are driven.

I hope this helps in your decisions.

All the truss built garages I have built came with an engineers stamp for wind loads. I've never had one blow over in a wind storm.

Trusses can be very strong. You don't have to buy a minimally speced truss. You can buy heavier trusses and space them closer.

The main reason I don't like them is lost attic space. That's why I prefer a rafter style 2x10, 2x12 roof structure. And yes, I know you can get attic trusses.

 

[BearKiller]

There was a recently built church in our area that had the entire truss-built roof collapse catastrophically.

It fell so quick and hard that the compression blew out the windows and doors.

Thankfully, there was no one inside when it happened, as they would not have had a chance to get out.

 

[Builder]

Doubt it was due to the trusses. Probably due to faulty design or implementation of mechanical plans.

 

[Duffster]

There was a recently built church in our area that had the entire truss-built roof collapse catastrophically.

It fell so quick and hard that the compression blew out the windows and doors.

Thankfully, there was no one inside when it happened, as they would not have had a chance to get out.

There has to be a news story or something you could post a link to.

I'm with Boulder on this one, I doubt it had anything to do with the trusses.

 

[Builder]

There has to be a news story or something you could post a link to.

I'm with Boulder on this one, I doubt it had anything to do with the trusses.

Boulder agrees with dumpster.

 

[Duffster]

Boulder agrees with dumpster.

It's a sad, sad day.

 

[BearKiller]

There has to be a news story or something you could post a link to.

I'm with Boulder on this one, I doubt it had anything to do with the trusses.

I am not very good at this link posting business but I will see if I can find some of the news articles.

It was broadcast on most of the TV news channels within a couple hundred miles radius.

The closest town that actually has a TV station is 90-miles away.

The general consensus is that it was the trusses that gave way.

The outside walls for the most part with-stood the collapse.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I had my shop/garage built last year in southern Arkansas for $25,500. That included 30x30x6" main slab with 12x8 bathroom on one side and 12 x 30 leanto sheds on each side (minus the 8 for the bathroom on one side). The roof also has 18" overhang on all sides rather than 12" as some builders do. This included 2 insulated garage door, 16 foot and 10 foot x 8 foot high. All walls and ceiling with R19 insulation, totally wired with electric receptacles every 8foot on interior and 2 on each exterio wall under the sheds. Interior is lighted with 6 each 8 foot long double bulb commercial grade fluorescent lights and 2 double bulb spot lights for special circumstance lighting. The lighting is divided into two separate areas on the fluorescent and the spots are separately switchable. Also two separate exterior spots are installed on each corner. The interior walls and ceilings are sealed with 3/8" plywood. Exterior is exterior grade plywood and painted. Roof is 24 gauge galvalume painted sheetmetal with matching soffit and trim. It has 100 amp electrical service wired for 50 amp welding machine circuit and 10 circuits for light and receptacles. Attic is floored in the center of the gable at least 8 feet wide by 30 long with inside pull down attic access ladder with attic lighting. One automatic garage door opener for the 16 foot door was also included in the pricing. The pricing figures at $25.60 per square foot of slab area. Under roof cost=16.34 turnkey cost per sq. foot.
Electrical hook up to the building was done by electric company free of charge since they ran overhead wire. If I had ran underground, I would have had to pay for the wire and trenching. The cost did not include bathroom fixtures or sewer hook up, the plumbing was stubbed out for hook up and interior valves for cold water only. I will have to put in my hot water tank and line later if I want to have that.

 

[EddieWalker]

There was a recently built church in our area that had the entire truss-built roof collapse catastrophically.

It fell so quick and hard that the compression blew out the windows and doors.

Thankfully, there was no one inside when it happened, as they would not have had a chance to get out.

Same thing happened to a church in Winona, TX a few years ago. The middle section of the roof collapsed after a heavy rain. The mayor at the time told me that the minister hired a guy who had never done anything like that and he thought they had spaced the trusses out too far apart to save money. There's more to the story then what I'll print because it's just stuff that I heard, but can't confirm. I live a few miles from there, and there is a history of money being raised for that church, but then the work that they do will cost more then they have raised, but the job is done so poorly that there are allot of questions about how much was spent and who got the money.

Eddie

 

[firefighter jim]

Had a 28x40 pole building constructed 2 1/2 years ago (Ohio). Standard height (8' and I think 4"). 6x6 corner posts, 4x6 other. Vinyl siding (double dutchlap). 4/12 pitch roof (trusses). 12" overhangs/soffets. 5/8" roof sheathing. 30 lb. felt. GAF architectural shingles (30 year). Ridge vent. 4" concrete floor (with wire). Gutters and downspouts. 2 7x16' insulated garage doors. $14k. (less site prep). Here are a couple pics of a picnic pavillion my wife and I built this past spring next to one of our garages. Total cost: $5k. Jim