Building a Pull-Type Road Grader

BobInMN · Nov 27, 2003

I've been reading the forums here for some time. Lots of great and interesting information! I'll be laid off for a couple months this winter and have been looking for a project. I've been thinking of building a pull-type road grader.

My driveway is 1/2 mile long and I currently maintain it with a box blade, back blade and york rake. I just think I would get better results with a road grader.

I checked with a local machine shop and I can get them to bend a piece of 1/4" X 15" X 84" plate steel for $100 to use as the moldboard. A local metal supplier has 3/8" X 3" cutting edge for $1.90 a foot.

I'm thinking of modeling it after a HyGrade Grader:
[url=http://www.npend.com/salespoe%20hygrade%20grader_jm020295.htm

I have a Kubota B2710 I plan on pulling it with, so it will be considerably smaller than the Hygrade.

I plan on using the 3pt to control depth of cut. I want to build a pintle hitch bracket for the 3pt.

Instead of putting hydraulics on it I plan on using top links, available from TSC for $20 each, to control tilt and fine tune the cutting height.

For the main frame I plan on using 1/4" X 3" X 4" box tubing.

Any suggestions on this plan would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

avorancher · Nov 27, 2003

Here is a small grader that I had considered purchasing for my ATV before I realized that I needed the weight of a tractor. It has some interesting ideas that might be incorporated into your plans.

Beaverpro Grader

GaryM · Nov 27, 2003

Looks like a neat unit, but at only 300 Lbs. I think many folks will say it's too light weight. It needs to be heavy to cut. Otherwise it will just bounce around.

Slamfire · Nov 28, 2003

I saw pictures of one that used a double walking beam arrangement so it would stay level when the tractor ran over small irregularities in the ground. I can't seem to find them though, maybe it was on another site.

Egon · Nov 28, 2003

Only comment I can make is to ensure the grader is as long as possible with the blade centered between the hitch and rear wheels.

A greater length makes it easier to make a flat surface. It may initially take some time to get the road grade to what you wish and it will not happen after the first grading as the holes filled in will compact with traffic.

Nice choice of project.

Egon

OkieG · Nov 28, 2003

<font color="blue"> double walking beam arrangement so it would stay level </font>

Would a regular ball hitch work as well?

OkieG

Justaplain · Nov 28, 2003

I think there is an outfit in the midwest that still makes the truck {horse} drawn grader. Check with a town[county] highway dept for a source. bcs

Dozernut · Nov 28, 2003

Heres a link to another pull grader for your consideration.

http://www.doublebrepair-mfg.com/grader_e48.htm

CJDave · Nov 28, 2003

I have often thought of doing exactly what you are thinking about doing......building a small road grader. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif TWO THINGS....that I knew would be a consideration: ONE is the hitch setup. I would have to make a three-point hitch adapter that had an invagination to it which set the actual hitch point forward and sort of low under the tractor so I could get as close to the rear axle as I could; TWO was a way of handling the side thrust. Motor graders and the big pull type had wheels that could be leaned over to counteract side thrust. I reasoned that if I had enough weight at the rear axle and up to the blade area, that it MIGHT hold itself, but that is a "maybe". /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

CTyler · Nov 28, 2003

I think it was WroughtnHarv(?) that built one and that a lot of weight needed at the back. This was to keep the tires from lifting up. The blade creates a good leverage point to start lifting the back.

I would like to build one myself next year time permits.

theonlybull · Nov 28, 2003

we are currently using an old 4 horse road grader, that has the front axle removed, and just pins onto the drawbar of our 52 JD MT, the hyd. drawbar makes it easy to lift the blade to turn around, but we still use an operator standing on the rear to run the grader, makes life much easier, and does a wonderfull job.

CTyler · Nov 28, 2003

This is a different one, couldn't find the one I was looking for.

Link to thread and pic

BarryinMN · Nov 28, 2003

Another option would be an Adams Road Patrol 4 wheel horse drawn grader where the operator sits/stands on the back spinning wheels moving what amounts to a 6 way blade.

Your spouse could make the road smooth as a baby's bottom with a little practice.

Don't have a pix but the Lincoln MN VFD has one out front of the fire barn.

Dozernut · Nov 28, 2003

I am currently searching for material to build a pull grader myself. I am thinking about getting an old hay rake and removing the rake, then build an adapter to mount an old 3 pt. blade I have. The rake has a substantial frame with wheels and a crank adjuster for up and down. The 3 pt. blade would let me angle the blade and I could convert it to hydraulic easily. I have some old 3pt. implements that I could take the hitch from for hooking up to the tractor and this would also provide adjustment for raising and lowering.
If this fails I will just build a frame and the adjusters. Good luck!

JRP · Nov 28, 2003

I mad something like this

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/33-184259-DRIVEWAYFIXER.jpg

out of a 10' piece of I beam and sevaral pieces of RR rail.

I added a 3pt connection I can pick up with my Speeco quick hitch.

Overall, it is inexpensive and it really does a good job. I pull with a chain or can just lower it with the 3pt. hitch.

The quick hitch lets me pick it up if I need to travel distance.

It also works well for knocking down fire ant mounds.

wroughtn_harv · Nov 28, 2003

I have a bud who has a large leveling blade for a hundred plus horse tractor with a three point set up.

I've seen smaller ones at the different tractor places about and wondered how it worked. So I asked bud about his. He let me know it wasn't worth a flip except for leveling a rock driveway.

Might be what you want.

You could make one or maybe find one based upon my description.

Let's say you take two pieces of six inch channel eight feet long and place them parallel however apart you want your blade to be. Then you tie then together, on top of course. Then you take your cutter blade and it's supporting material and you place it between the two parallel pieces of channel.

What you're wanting is to have your cutting edge riding on guides so that it can't whoop up and down. With the channels being your runners then your blade can only make a flush cut.

The big one bud has two blades slightly angled in a spread V shape. But the smaller ones I've seen elsewhere just had one.

I thought it was ingenious in concept and could be adaptable to different tractor capabilities. If your tractor could pull it you could add weight etc.

I never built my grader, haven't needed it yet. But I can't see where a three point would work on the same principles as a quick attach on a skid steer would.

Hope this helps.

BobInMN · Nov 28, 2003

Thanks for all the ideas and pics.

Slamfire - What is a double walking beam? I have never heard of one.

I considered using a ball hitch, but thought I might have a little more freedom of movement with a pintel hitch due to the fact the main beam is designed to tilt left and right, up and down.

I have looked for one of the old pull-type graders for about the last year. Seems everytime I find one at an auction they go for over $1000. I was hoping to build for less than $300. Plus most of them have a 10' blade. I'm not sure the Kubota would handle it.

The reason I like the Hygrade design is you can add as much weight as you need on the rear end. Like I said I plan on using top links instead of hydraulic cylinders. This will give me the option to change later if I want to.

I'm thinking that with a 7' or 8 blade, the right amount of weight, and not taking to big of cut it should trail OK.

Tried to get prices today on the other steel I need for the frame. Every place I checked was closed for the holiday weekend.

Thanks Again!

BobInMN · Nov 28, 2003

Maybe I confused some of you when I said I wanted to use the three point to raise and lower it. I plan on build a frame for the three point with the pintle hich on it, that way the grader would only be lifted by one point and would have freedom of movement left and right and up and down.

Alot like some of the receiver hitches I've seen some of you build for your three points.

I think this will raise and lower it enough while in use. If I want to raise it higher to transport I can use the top link on the rear of the grader.

Slamfire · Nov 29, 2003

I suppose it would, although the walking beam would have a greater range of motion than a ball hitch. Here in the Smokey Mtns. we have some pretty steep grades, and abrupt changes. You can't see more than 50 yards down my 1/4 mile driveway unless you are on top of one hill looking at the top of another.

For whoever asked what a walking beam is, it is a lever with a fulcrum in the middle. Any motion applied to one end is reversed at the other. A doubled one can change this to the same motion at both ends.

Dozernut · Nov 29, 2003

No I was not confused, I just did not explain myself well enough. Only the two lower arms would be hooked up, the top arm would not. This would allow the the unit to raise to a transport mode. The crank on the rake would provide fine adjustment. Sorry for the confusion, sometimes when the creative juices get flowing the ability to communicate suffers.
Your hitch idea sounds interesting and would work well and would be better. This would allow the grader to turn where my idea would not allow it to turn but skid the wheels. That is the beauty of kicking around ideas, someone may come up with an easier solution or a completely different train of thought.