Building a bookcase question

[Richard]

Looking at buying/building a bookcase.

Long question cut short....

Is it better to use plywood or can I use solid wood (oak, maple, other?) for the vertical sides?

I'm guessing that it' better to use plywood for the actual shelves so they don't warp over time.

 

[/pine]

How deep is the case you're wanting?

It's more work but gluing up boards eliminates typical warping that can occur with single wide boards etc...

You can do a lot with solid face frames and edge veneer tapes over plywood...painted or stained you can turn out a piece that is hard to tell it's not all solid wood...

Good Luck...

 

[newbury]

Looking at buying/building a bookcase.

Long question cut short....

Is it better to use plywood or can I use solid wood (oak, maple, other?) for the vertical sides?

I'm guessing that it' better to use plywood for the actual shelves so they don't warp over time.

If you know what your doing solid wood is better. But since your asking use plywood.

I bought SWMBO's bookcases for about $350.

/edit the couple of pictures on the right show them when I got them.



Similar is on sale Public Surplus: Auction #1223876 presently bid up to $28.00, that's twenty and eight dollars.

Trouble is that there is about 200 foot of double sided bookcases, about 180 feet more than I need

/edit2 - and it's all solid oak, except for the partition for between the double sides. A single unit now starts at over $1,500 Gaylord® Bookcraft® 82"H Double-Faced Wood Shelving (Starter) | Book Shelving | Shelving | Furniture | Gaylord.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I use oak veneer plywood, and then face the edges with solid 1x2 with edges routed. Also use plywood for shelves and face the front with 1x2, which also help keep shelf from sagging.

 

[oosik]

All the shelves on my bookshelves start out as 5/4 solid pine. I run them thru my planer and end up with 1" shelf material. The one I like the most has verticals from weather 4" x 11" weathered cedar planking. I have a Pan Abode cedar home and attach shelving directly to the walls with angle brackets.

 

[KiwiBro]

Looking at buying/building a bookcase.

Long question cut short....

Is it better to use plywood or can I use solid wood (oak, maple, other?) for the vertical sides?

I'm guessing that it' better to use plywood for the actual shelves so they don't warp over time.

It would depend on the design of the bookcase and your experience/machinery. I've seen some wonderful bookcases made from plywood, and I am partial to solid wood, mainly reclaimed. Here's a few I've made. The lighter one from decking that I had to replace as much of it was rotting away. The darker one from the flooring of a house that burned down.

 

[EddieWalker]

Why Oak? It's become a very outdated wood in homes that people are replacing with other species. Just like brass and pastel colors, it screams out then 1980's.

As for your question about using solid oak, it's very stable if you buy it from a supplier, as compared to milling it yourself and waiting for it to dry out. Once done you wont be able to tell the difference between solid oak or oak veneer plywood. The cost savings is significant over buying sheets of 3/4 plywood and ripping it to size. With solid wood, you pay a fortune for boards a foot wide, or you have to join them together, plane them flat and sand them. Build the sides and shelves from 3/4 plywood, use 1/4 for the back and solid wood for the edges.

Eddie

 

[newbury]

Why Oak? It's become a very outdated wood in homes that people are replacing with other species. Just like brass and pastel colors, it screams out then 1980's. <snip>

Actually I believe it screams out "LIBRARY" Especially if you have enough of it one room.

 

[PapaPerk]

Why Oak? It's become a very outdated wood in homes that people are replacing with other species. Just like brass and pastel colors, it screams out then 1980's.

As for your question about using solid oak, it's very stable if you buy it from a supplier, as compared to milling it yourself and waiting for it to dry out. Once done you wont be able to tell the difference between solid oak or oak veneer plywood. The cost savings is significant over buying sheets of 3/4 plywood and ripping it to size. With solid wood, you pay a fortune for boards a foot wide, or you have to join them together, plane them flat and sand them. Build the sides and shelves from 3/4 plywood, use 1/4 for the back and solid wood for the edges.

Eddie

If you want some classy oak... Quarter saw it!

 

[Scrambler82]

Use which ever wood you have available.
No matter which wood you use the main concern will be the shelf sagging.

Use a strip, 1x2, along the front edge and secure the rear of the shelf to the rear panel, this again will stop sagging and make the overall shelving more solid.

The front edge molding on the shelves can be extended to a front edge molding for the whole front of the book shelf and will give a more finished off look.

Post up some picture, would enjoy seeing your process and the finished product.

Luck...

 

[scott_vt]

Looking at buying/building a bookcase.

Long question cut short....

Is it better to use plywood or can I use solid wood (oak, maple, other?) for the vertical sides?

I'm guessing that it' better to use plywood for the actual shelves so they don't warp over time.

Good Afternoon Richard,
You really left out a bit of info on what size bookcase your planning on constructing.

Because of the way you asked the question, Im guessing that you dont have alot of experience doing this type of work. So my answer to you would be go with a veneered plywood. It not only eliminates a lot of glue up, but it is also very stable and wont warp like solid wood. As another poster mentioned, you can buy the stick on edging making the plywood look solid.

Here is the key thing to remember in cabinet construction. Laminated plywood does not really expand or contract with climate changes, aka humidity. You really cant combine solid wood sides and laminated plywood shelving and then try and glue the plywood shelves to solid wood, because the cabinet will break apart. You can use solid wood sides and then use support strips or pins to hold the plywood shelving.

Hopefully your understanding what Im trying to convey !

 

[MESSMAKER]

Either will work. Either will sag if it is wide enough and is supporting much weight. A 1x2 strip on the front of shelf will help the sagging problem as will a center support. Faced plywood is my first choice.

 

[Richard]

I guess my question has been answered. However, in case not, here are some tidbits:

1. Dimensions? Unsure so lets say, no less than 12" deep and no more than 18" deep. Height, let's guess 7'. Around 24" wide
2. Looking at two units, flanking a propane fireplace in the middle of the wall
3. House is a log house so some "hand made" look is acceptable (at least to me, wife is unpredictable)
4. Said item WILL be painted. She loves to paint. She'd paint the paint can if she could. So shelves could be oak, maple, anything (however I really DON'T want any form of veneered particle board or whatever they call it.... I want it to last)


We've done most of the building of the house (the finish work, oak stair rails, reset windows, doors and on and on...) but my genuine 'wood working' days go back to woodshop where I think I made a bowl that turned out oblong

My main question is can solid wood be used as the risers. I'm kind of liking that idea as I think you can get a better finish on that than you can on plywood.

Given that I'm not positive of the dimensions, I'm actually interested in getting a router and a biscuit joiner. I don't have a planer (nor intend to). I'm thinking you can make some simple and interesting things with those tools (amongst the other tools I have, most however, are not for making cabinets)

She found some on Craigslist for $125 (for a pair). Went to see them and decided she'd pass. They were plywood. She's preparing to spend something like $5,000 (she says) to have some made.

THIS is what has me thinking I could buy some nice tools, end up with a less perfect item BUT, leave a substantial amount of cash in my pocket AND have a couple of tools left over.

I don't know that $5K is her quoted price by a cabinet shop, it's what she's quoting to me.

I hate quotes like that.

 

[CobyRupert]

If you know what your doing solid wood is better. But since your asking use plywood.

Ooohhh!!! :fiery: Now that's funny stuff.

 

[2manyrocks]

Price enough solid wood versus cabinet grade plywood needed for your project.

 

[HCJtractor]

Definitely use veneered plywood. If painting, birch is fine and cheapest. But you need a table saw to cut to proper dimensions and to accurately cut large sheet goods, a little portable saw is not good. You need a full size saw, the bigger the table, the better. Then use a cheap hardwood like poplar for edging the raw edges and for face frames if designed that way. With a large tablesaw, a accurate chop or miter saw, a router, lots of clamps, you can make most any simple long lasting cabinet. Optional tools would be a good dado blade set for rabbits, and a random orbital sander, and a good set of countersink drill bits and router bits for whatever edge treatment you wish. The biscuit joiner is not really necessary as glued joints are plenty strong without it, but it can help in alignment. Another handy tool for cabinets is a Kreg jig for pocket screws. It looks cheesy but actually works great and can reduce clamping. I use lots of dado cut rabbits glued and screwed, and it will last forever.

I built all my cabinets out of cherry ply, lots of solid cherry for face frames and doors, and I bought all the tools for my collection. But the first tool before all others is a tablesaw and quality blade, with the biggest out feed and Infeed table you have room for.

For more advanced work, to use hardwood other than the Home Depot red oak or poplar ( and I agree red oak is ugly in my eyes!), you also need a jointer and planer. But for paint grade, no need for them at first. There really is no advantage to using boards rather than ply, as ply is stronger, has less warpage, is cheaper, and requires less skill and fewer tools. Use the commonly available hardwoods only for edge treatment and stiffeners for shelves. Oh, forget the adhesive edge banding tape. It is very inferior.

Also be aware a router works best in a router table. A hand held router is ok for rounding edges or simple edge treatment, but it has what I call a high degree of "screw up factor". It's a very easy tool to screw up your work quickly

Do what I did. Read books on cabinet design and techniques, and on tool safety, especially with the tablesaw.

 

[HCJtractor]

One last thought. For way less than $5000, you can buy all the tools I mentioned and then some, all the materials for your cabinets, and have the satisfaction of making them yourself. I made solid cherry cabinets for my whole house, bought every high end wood working tool know to man, and probably saved $10000 and now have a complete shop. The big if is do you have space for all this? Making furniture the size you require takes a good bit of shop space, especially if you use plywood.

But Home Depot can cut it for you for free, at least to approximate size, to make it easier to handle in a small shop. Or cut your ply to size in a friends shop if you know someone and then tweak it and assemble it at your home.

 

[1bandit]

We build quite a few book shelves in our cabinet shop. 10 Inches is the most common depth for us. As a general rule we never span a shelf over 30 inches, especially for adjustable shelves.

 

[forgeblast]

If you do not have all the tools, the box stores have panel saws, give them your measurements and they will rip them for you. If plywood go with birch, it holds a stain nicely.
This lady has a great site with a ton of plans,
Recently Added Plans | Ana White

 

[EddieWalker]

You'll save a ton of money if you buy paint grade 3/4 plywood over oak. Home Depot has the best deal right now at $35 each. For solid wood to trim out your edges, go with poplar. It's a lot cheaper then oak and will give you the same look once painted. Personally I use OSB for my edges when painting since it is so much easier to work with and I prefer the look of half inch OSB over anything else when painting cabinets.

Eddie