Building a 3point backhoe subframe

[Bigbear]

Picking up steel today ($300) should have some extra. In the picture (not to scale nor very good) the blue color is 2x4x1/4 box steel. My back wheels have been set out so there is room between tires and tractor. 2 pcs go to the FEL bracket with pins or bolts. Another going across and bolted to the drawbar bracket. The next pc back will be for attachment to the existing lower links (on the backhoe). On my backhoe, besides the 2 lower and top link, there are 2 upper attachments right above the lower ones. So the plan is, to have the subframe mounted, and then attach backhoe with these 4 pins.
The long main beams will sit right up under the rear axle (square axle at this point) and have a sorta U shape going over them made from the same box steel.
I will try and take pictures from start to finish.
<font color="red"> Is this overkill, or is there such a thing? </font>

 

[Bigbear]

I started the project last night with the brackets that will connect the subframe to the FEL mount. Since I will have several pictures that are large, please click HERE to see the progress pictures. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bigbear]

Well, welded up a few more pcs to the puzzle, sure would be nice to have a picture of the finished puzzle. The link is Here for project pictures.

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Kinda disappointed the thread did not generate the input I thought it would, maybe some thoughts on design, or welding is what I envisioned this might inspire from the fabricators out there.

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Right or Wrong, <font color="red"> I'll Getter Done. </font> /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[rebel300r]

Hi Bigbear,

I like the looks of your project. I have been considering the same thing for myself. It looks like a lot of work and I need to figure out if I can design it so that it stays out of the way when I don't have the BH on.

Scott

 

[Bigbear]

Thanks rebel300r, it has been quite a project, especially with the 98 degree temps and humidity. I pretty much have it done, no paint yet. I tried every way I could to keep the mount on the tractor with backhoe detached, but couldn't figure out how to make it strong enough and still have the 3 point arms to move down far enough. But, I can now lift the back end off the ground and not feel like it will break, or break off the top link mount while driving down the road. Overall, I am pleased with the results. Posting more pictures tonight. I did use 2 top link adjustable rods as part of the hookup, that way I can tilt the backhoe forward or backward if needbe. And the backhoe has no welding on it, just hooks up in 4 places.
It's well worth the effort. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rebel300r]

I can't believe it has taken this long but I finally hong the backhoe yesterday. The subframe looks ok right now but I will work it a bit before I call it quits. I have yet to clean it up or paint it but once I do, I will post photos. What a project.

Scott

 

[Bigbear]

Good to hear your up and running Scott, it's a great feeling just knowing you did it yourself, no matter how long it takes. Go ahead and post the before paint pics, we can't wait. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif BEAR

 

[GuglioLS]

BigBear -

AMAZING Project, WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I bet you are extremely satisfied with your accomplishment and it must give you peace of mind that you are not going to tear up you tractor with the BH. I will someday do this and refer to your design as a starting point. The use of the adjustable links is brilliant. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Great Job,

Larry G

 

[Mud_Puppy]

Hi BigBear
That is a fantastic job. The design and workmanship are both fantastic. Let us know what your going to do next.

Don

 

[Thorndike]

BigBear; For some reason I'd missed this thread. Most excellent job! Was your backhoe originally designed for TPH mount? I may want to build a subframe for my TC35DA. NH wants over $7K for a subframe mounted hoe, and if I could find another brand, and adapt it like you, I'd be very happy.
Happy hoeing to ya! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bigbear]

Larry, I am most humbled, and yes, I am extremely satisfied with this project. I now have many, many hours on the backhoe, and all but the paint is bulletproof. The adjustable links were the only way I could make it stable and yet allow for some adjustment. Thank you. Bear

Mud Puppy, Thanks, I really appreciate that, my next project is a simple cable plow (for CAT5) that will fit the backhoe bucket. Thank you. Bear

Thorndike, Thanks, yes, it was a 3pt backhoe to start with, a Chinese brand with a few flaws, but nothing a smoke wrench, welder, and a few wrenches couldn't fix.
Thanks, BEAR

If I can be of any help to others with a backhoe project, just let me know, and I will be more than glad to share my experiences with this one. BEAR /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[3RRL]

Bigbear,

You should be very proud of yourself. That is one heck of project and it is a super good addition/modification that makes the backhoe attachement 10 times (figure of speech) better than just the 3 pt attachment. I really like the adjustable turnbuckles to "fit" the backhoe into position. Nice job documenting your progress too.

I am trying to design the same thing for my Kama 554. So far, we have similar attachment points leading off the tractor. That is, from in front, under the frame/axle and to the hitch plate area. My backhoe is different than yours so my connections to it will differ. Another difference is my design plans are to continue utilizing the lower lift arms and the top link in additon to the subframe. It will ultimately give me a 7 pt attachment when done. (overkill?)

I had some questions:
How long does it take you to remove or install your backhoe with this set-up?
From the pictures, it appears that where the subframe comes out the back of the tractor and across to the tow hitch plate, it prevents your lower lift arms from going downward? Is that correct?

Can you use other implements on the tractor now, or does the entire subframe have to come off the tractor completely?

Thanks for you help,

 

[Bigbear]

Thanks Rob, I tried many design options that would leave the sub-frame on the tractor and still allow the use of different implements, but no luck. In order to allow the lift arms movement, the sub-frame would have to sit a lot lower to the ground than I was willing to live with. It takes about 30 min. to install, or remove by myself, about 15 min. with help. Being that it takes soooo long to hitch up the backhoe, I have been trying to convince my wife we now need another tractor just for mowing, tilling, etc /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif not working so far. Hope this helps. BEAR

 

[rebel300r]

Bigbear,

You really inspired me. Took me a couple of months but I finally got mine together. I worked it out so that the subframe works around the MMM and acts as the mechanism to raise and lower it. I have about 5 hours of backhoe work in and it seems to be holding up on my 4120. I will post several photos in the next posts. Thanks again.

Scott

 

[rebel300r]

Bigbear,

You really inspired me. Took me a couple of months but I finally got mine together. I worked it out so that the subframe works around the MMM and acts as the mechanism to raise and lower it. I have about 5 hours of backhoe work in and it seems to be holding up on my 4120. I will post several photos in the next posts. Thanks again.

Scott

 

[rebel300r]

Leftside

 

[rebel300r]

Leftside

 

[rebel300r]

Rightside

 

[rebel300r]

Rightside

 

[rebel300r]

Rear. I was able to design it so that the 3 pt arms still work (work better than they did with the Deere MMM lifting mechanism). I have to take the 3pt back off when mounting the hoe.