brush hogging problems

[mf180]

Before today I had never brush hoged before. Just bought a used 6ft bush hog. I didn't really know how to set everything up just tried to get the deck level. I wa cutting about waist high weeds and grass and it would do fine for a while then the deck would start shaking violently. I would stop and it would keep doing that for a few seconds then be fine for a while and start shaking again. Any ideas dull blades, adjustment problems, rpm, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[EastTexFrank]

Before today I had never brush hoged before. Just bought a used 6ft bush hog. I didn't really know how to set everything up just tried to get the deck level. I wa cutting about waist high weeds and grass and it would do fine for a while then the deck would start shaking violently. I would stop and it would keep doing that for a few seconds then be fine for a while and start shaking again. Any ideas dull blades, adjustment problems, rpm, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Mowing too fast, slow down. The blades might need sharpening but basically you're overloading the deck. It can't clear the grass quick enough and the blades get out of whack and cause vibration. The blades aren't fixed as on a finishing mower and can pivot. This is to allow them to hit some immovable object and pivot out of the way and not cause it to stall, break or some other bad stuff. If you overload the deck, the same thing happens, the blades move out of alignment, the whole set up gets unbalanced and causes vibration, clattering and banging. When you stop forward progress it gives the blades the opportunity to clear the grass from under the deck and things settle down. If you look back you should see a clump of grass being thrown out. If you slow down, give the mower time to clear the grass it is cutting, things will go smooth.

Also, make sure the PTO is turning at the recommended speed for the mower. Most rotary cutters are geared to cut best when the PTO is turning at 540 rpm. Some tractors have a PTO that turns at 1000 rpm and the mower must be geared accordingly or else you are going to overspeed the mower and it will self destruct in short order.

 

[greenmule]

Probably as was said,but my 7 year old kk will vibrate pretty bad sometimes,blades don't stay in right spot I guess,this happens when backing up and slowing pto down to shift gears,think things/blade bolts,are getting worn,but it never happens when I get going even in thick tall stuff,so since you said used,maybe yours have some of same problems?I can get it back by stopping,letting it slow down by pushing clutch all the way and than poping clutch out. If you keep rpms up,the only reason it should maybe shake is like was said though.

As far as setting it up,raise it till its about 4-5 inches high all around from bottom of deck with tailwheel on ground,I use a chain instead of top link,thats about all there is too it.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

With the FRONT of the deck set at proper cutting height, set the tail wheel so the REAR of the deck is 1" to 2" HIGHER than the front. With the deck set level, the blades often have to cut everything twice. With the rear higher, clippings exit without plugging the blades. All around, results will be better.

 

[jinman]

I'd like to add one more suggestion to the terrific advice you've already received. I think you need to raise the cutter as high as you can get it on your 3PH and do an underside inspection. Put blocks under the cutter in case the 3PH drops and then crawl under there and check the stump jumper to make sure it is tight and not able to wobble on the output shaft of the gearbox. Also check that your blade bolts are not coming loose. The blades will have a little up/down play, but it should not be excessive. Normally, you also have inspection ports on the top of the cutter where you can look at the blade bolts/nuts to see that they are tight and both the same. Also, look at the bolts holding your gearbox onto the body of the cutter. If these are loose, the whole gearbox, stump jumper, and blades can jump around under load.

Probably everthing will be fine, but you'll have the extra confidence of knowing that everything is tight and nothing is coming apart on the underside of your deck while cutting brush.

 

[greenmule]

My results are excellent too,when deck is level by the way,on my kk cutter if you had rear 2-3 inches higher than front,your front would be 1 inch or so from ground and dig in,[yeah I know rear wheel goes up and down],I got it in its next highest setting,and thats what would happen,plus no need of doing it,my ck30 doesn't lug one little bit in 4 ft tall orchard grass with my 5 ft cutter.And it doesn't appear I'm cutting it twice either,behind cutter you got this nice wind row of grass that is just as long as it was but laying down,so that part of this[cutting it twice] is a myth,in my case.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My results are excellent too,when deck is level by the way,on my kk cutter if you had rear 2-3 inches higher than front,your front would be 1 inch or so from ground and dig in,[yeah I know rear wheel goes up and down],I got it in its next highest setting,and thats what would happen,plus no need of doing it,my ck30 doesn't lug one little bit in 4 ft tall orchard grass with my 5 ft cutter.And it doesn't appear I'm cutting it twice either,behind cutter you got this nice wind row of grass that is just as long as it was but laying down,so that part of this[cutting it twice] is a myth,in my case.

Hate to break it to you, but your idea of a "Myth" is the accepted way to set up a mower PROPERLY. Not MY idea, but that of a few rather noteworthy manufacturers in the field(such as; Bush Hog, Shulte/Alamo/Rhino, Woods, Landpride, ect....)

Setting the rear UP doesn't lower the front. You set the FRONT with the 3-point hitch/position control. That height stays constant (if you have a tractor with adaquate position control). Rear deck hight is set with tailwheel. If front height is set correctly, skid will be no closer to the ground with rear raised slightly.

Not a guessing game on my part either.....Based on a BUNCH of hours of real world experience. I own a commercial mowing business. (Mow highway right-of-ways, commercial real estate, ect) With contracted work and the equipment I have on the job, it's expected that we'll log somewhere in the neighborhood of 11,000(+) hours of mowing this year alone. All the mowers, from 6' mounted models to 15' batwings are set with rear slightly higher. They simply CUT BETTER and DO A BETTER JOB that way.

 

[greenmule]

Yeah well we both know what we're talking about than cause so do I,I been hoging on a tractor for 30 some years off and on,so..

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion[rear of mower being at highest postion] and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

I also know what the books say.

Plus,like I said,no reason to worry about this at all, my ck30 goes through 4 ft tall thick,damp orchard grass,lays it down behind me in one piece,doesn't lug motor a bit,so,just make it easy on your self and set it about level all around. Maybe a finish mower[which I ain't got] yeah,front lower than rear,maybe if your hog was to big for your tractor,yeah,but on my 5ft hog with ck30,no.

 

[sandman2234]

I would tend to think that "Orchard grass" would not be as thick due to limited sunlight as the open right of ways on interstates. Unless you are pushing a bush hog or the tractor to it's limits, it really doesn't matter how you hang the hog behind the tractor. My experience with an underpowered tractor and a light weight bush hog taught me to try to give the grass/brush/trees somewhere to go once they were cut, which means raising the rear of the deck just a little higher than the front. FWJ probably has more hours in the seat in front of a bush hog this year than I have over the last 30, but why should anybody listen to him??? Back to my soapbox...
David from jax

 

[SPYDERLK]

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion[rear of mower being at highest postion] and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

You make a real good point against the KK. When you cant set a bushog up right it cant work its optimum. Sounds as if, somehow, the KK has been designed so that it cant be set up right.
larry

 

[greenmule]

Well well,looks like the helps arrived!

no my grass is not in an orchard,gets plenty of sun,looks like a meadow[well maybe not a meadow in fl.] but its thick/tall.Blue grass is not always in ky. either.

And as far as kk not building something that you can do what book says,yeah,maybe they did!!

You can set it the way book says,its just I don't want to cause [like said] front will dig into dirt easy,don't want that,but the main reason I don't use it that way is cause I don't have to,get it,it cuts fine level[plus front don't dig into dirt every time I go over a dip.

You don't have to set rear up 3-4 inches higher like book says,don't care who says you do,nor do I care what kk's book says,just care how it works for me.

The guy was asking how to set up a brush hog,he's got an idea now,the book way might work best for him,my way might just work fine for him as well,but he'll know nothings set in stone here and thats good info for a newbie.

He also oughta use a chain for top link,makes rear wheel stay on ground more better.Any thoughts on that??

 

[SPYDERLK]

Most have an articulated link that gives several inches of slack in the top setup so the hog can float on the lift arms with the back end able to move up and down freely several inches. A chain can allow more. Are your lift arms extended with a QA?
larry

 

[greenmule]

No no quick attach,yeah this one came with a u shaped piece of steel that was supposed to serve that pupose,but it didn't work the way you would need it to,tried it several times and ways,but no.

Solid top link serves a few puposes,and its a trade off using chain,but if you know your land,and are just cutting grass/weeds and are not transporting it raised down the road,chain serves my purpose,it lets rear float over dips,you can adjust it for more or less give,it keeps your pto drive line together[keeping rear from going to far down],and can even raise rear wheel a few inches off ground with the way its set.

Just don't run over stuff where front will catch and rear come up and don't back up into something thats going to raise rear up to much and jam drive line,so theres some trade off's like said.

But high grass spots and the rear wheel banging into ground wasn't working for me.

 

[eastexan]

Yeah well we both know what we're talking about than cause so do I,I been hoging on a tractor for 30 some years off and on,so..

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

I also know what the books say.

Plus,like I said,no reason to worry about this at all, my ck30 goes through 4 ft tall thick,damp orchard grass,lays it down behind me in one piece,doesn't lug motor a bit,so,just make it easy on your self and set it about level all around. Maybe a finish mower[which I ain't got] yeah,front lower than rear,maybe if your hog was to big for your tractor,yeah,but on my 5ft hog with ck30,no.

I'll have to go with FarmWithJunk on this one. If you keep your mower deck exactly level then maybe it would cut the grass only once. And if it works for you, great. I can see how it might make the grass a bit smoother since the blades would be touching the grass evenly all the way around. That may work fine for you with orchard grass.

But for the OP, if you have the rear of the deck even a little lower than the front, then as you pass over the grass, the blades will cut it at the front of the deck. And then as the rear of the deck passes over, the blades being closer to the ground at the rear, will cut it again.

By having the rear of the deck slightly higher, then the grass gets cut only once, at the front of the deck. This also lets the grass and debris exit easily out the back. (BTW FarmWithJunk said 1"-2", not 3"-4")

It's also safer. With the kind of heavy mowing that I do, I use the brush cutter for what it was designed to do, heavy brush, sprouts, tough weeds & grass, etc.
I have been surprised different times while mowing with hidden fallen branches, rocks, or other debris. And having the rear of the mower slightly higher than the front allows the chunks of wood or rocks more likely to be thrown out the back of the deck, than toward the operator.

The mowing height is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the deck at the front to be about 3" off the ground, but that's just my preference.

MF180, at first I thought maybe your problem was not enough HP for the 6' brush cutter, but if your name implies that you have a Massey 180, then it has plenty of HP for the cutter.

Just to guess, I would suggest what others have. They had good suggestions. You might try putting your tractor in a lower gear, and make sure your RPM level is correct (probably 540rpm). And since you just bought your used cutter, it would be good to make sure it's ready for service by checking for loose bolts, etc., check the sharpness of the blades, and check the gear oil, if you haven't done that already. And raise your deck at the tail wheel slightly higher than the front, so your blades will be only cutting the grass once.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Yeah well we both know what we're talking about than cause so do I,I been hoging on a tractor for 30 some years off and on,so..

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion[rear of mower being at highest postion] and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

I also know what the books say.

Plus,like I said,no reason to worry about this at all, my ck30 goes through 4 ft tall thick,damp orchard grass,lays it down behind me in one piece,doesn't lug motor a bit,so,just make it easy on your self and set it about level all around. Maybe a finish mower[which I ain't got] yeah,front lower than rear,maybe if your hog was to big for your tractor,yeah,but on my 5ft hog with ck30,no.

Just 30 years? I have a son who's way past that, and grandson who's not far behind you.....

My "history" with tractors and bush hogs goes back a bit further.... (Closer to 50 of my 62 years)

Sounds like you've got a botched up mess of a set-up if you can't run that mower without it digging in on the corners unless it's set up wrong. Might be time to ease up on the "I know everything I need to know" and listen to a few folks who've spent more time bush hogging ONE SUMMER than you've logged in a lifetime. You might wanna take a listen to the folks who design and build the best mowers money can buy too.

It's not about if the motor lugs or not.

Your reading comprehension is a little suspect too. NO ONE (with the exception of you) mentioned 3" to 4" lower in the front. As I said, the CORRECT way is 1" to 2". We won't even go into the issue of how a mower set at the desired height in front would suddenly be LOWER if the rear was set to the correct height. Not buyin' that claim at all......

But then again, what would I know???? I just make a living with these things.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Well well,looks like the helps arrived!

no my grass is not in an orchard,gets plenty of sun,looks like a meadow[well maybe not a meadow in fl.] but its thick/tall.Blue grass is not always in ky. either.

And as far as kk not building something that you can do what book says,yeah,maybe they did!!

You can set it the way book says,its just I don't want to cause [like said] front will dig into dirt easy,don't want that,but the main reason I don't use it that way is cause I don't have to,get it,it cuts fine level[plus front don't dig into dirt every time I go over a dip.

You don't have to set rear up 3-4 inches higher like book says,don't care who says you do,nor do I care what kk's book says,just care how it works for me.

The guy was asking how to set up a brush hog,he's got an idea now,the book way might work best for him,my way might just work fine for him as well,but he'll know nothings set in stone here and thats good info for a newbie.

He also oughta use a chain for top link,makes rear wheel stay on ground more better.Any thoughts on that??

So let's get this straight.....We're answering a question posed by a relatively inexperienced (ie impressionable) person who admittedly knows little about how to set up a bush hog. So YOU seem to think instructing him to do so in a manner contradictory to everything that every major manufacturer says, contradictory to what most all users, and even contradictory to the opinion of someone who owns and operates mowers as a profession, logging more hours (personally) in an average summer than most people do in a LIFETIME.......is sound advice? Alrighty now.......! That speaks volumes.......



Also, for the record, Orchardgrass is a species of grass, not grass in an orchard.

And while we're at it, there is actually very little "Bluegrass" in the Bluegrass State. Most of what we're cutting here is a mix of Fescues, Brome, Johnsongrass and weeds.

 

[greenmule]

Think book says about 3 inches,you was quoting books were you not?

Thing I'm trying to say here is,you can set your hog up differently than you and still cut grass just fine,just got done cutting about 10 acres and the way I say works just fine,your way works just fine for you.

Also saying if you set my cutter up like you say,front will be too low for me,I could make a little welding/cutting chango in about an hour and be able to do as you say with front being up to my liking,but can't figure out why I would want to do that seeing mine cuts fine.

And you keep saying about all your years of experience and the fact that you cut grass for a living,alright,I got that,you don't have to convince me,but seeing as we have never met or talked and are just internet buddies,will do it my own way,but thank you.

Nothing wrong with disagreeing,no need to get mad about it,is there?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Think book says about 3 inches,you was quoting books were you not?

Thing I'm trying to say here is,you can set your hog up differently than you and still cut grass just fine,just got done cutting about 10 acres and the way I say works just fine,your way works just fine for you.

Also saying if you set my cutter up like you say,front will be too low for me,I could make a little welding/cutting chango in about an hour and be able to do as you say with front being up to my liking,but can't figure out why I would want to do that seeing mine cuts fine.

And you keep saying about all your years of experience and the fact that you cut grass for a living,alright,I got that,you don't have to convince me,but seeing as we have never met or talked and are just internet buddies,will do it my own way,but thank you.

Nothing wrong with disagreeing,no need to get mad about it,is there?

I'm not getting mad.....Why? ARE YOU? In fact, I'm starting to laugh at some of what I'm reading.

You say setting the mower (correctly) "my way" makes the front end too low.... Not sure why you'd say that, as it can be set at ANY height you so desire, from dragging the ground to all the way raised. Once again, your mowing height is determined by 3-point hitch and set at height needed. THEN the rear of the mower is set 1" to 2" higher, gauged by the tailwheel(s). It's not rocket science.

Not sure what "book" you're referring to (Possibly MAD Magazine???? ) I'm referring to owners manuals and tech service bulletins from Bush Hog, Alamo Group (Shulte/Rhino/Alamo) Woods, Landpride, ect...... As well as the commonly accepted (and often posted) successful methods of MOST end users of bush hog type cutters.

What I find so strange is, I know probably 20 people (Locally and on TBN) who own a KK 5' mower. NONE, NOT ONE of them relates any simular set-up problems you're having.

 

[NSBound]

Jeez, guys, time to take yer "anti-ornery pills" and take a break !

 

[greenmule]

I know orchard grass is a species of grass,[somebody else didn't],read my post again if you doubt it.:

Again,every situation is different,I was telling the man the way I do it[which works well by the way,lets not forget that],wasn't telling him what you said was wrong,you're the one thats been saying people is wrong.[me]

The way you do it is the way the book says to do it,I agree there,its just that way ain't the only way and just cause thats the way,don't mean its written in stone. He ain't going to hurt his self doing it my way or his equipement you do know that right?

Their is more than one way to skin a cat,now he knows two ways,maybe he'll come up with third way that works for him.

Now I would suggest to the op that if he's got a nice kinda level area thats just grass,that he take top link off and try it,he'll learn something else, he might learn why chain might work better for you than solid top link.

Thats probably against established rules too?