Brush hog advice

[greg_g]

LD1...that is exactly what I was trying to say!

For the record, what you actually said - and what started this unfortunate exchange in the first place - was "The cutters take less HP to run than the finish belly mower...".

I admitted my mistake....

//greg//

 

[RoyJackson]

i can't imaging subjecting a finish mower to tall grass.. just wasn't designed for it.. it's abusive..

soundguy

I think if the initial cut is at the mower's highest setting, then a follow up cut to the desired finish height...he should be OK. His risk, of course...

 

[Soundguy]

it will work, but just ain't the right tool for the job.

I can take a pair of toenail clippers and head out into my pasture and EVENTUALLY get it under controll

there's a fair amount of abuse involved though...

 

[RoyJackson]

For the record, what you actually said - and what started this unfortunate exchange in the first place - was "The cutters take less HP to run than the finish belly mower...".

I admitted my mistake....

//greg//

Yeah...the original statement was as Greg wrote...and if someone asks me a question (or comments) about the use of a powered implement, I always consider usage at full capacity in my answer.
In this case, the quoted comment was incorrect for general use of rotary cutters...

Another recent thread (about chippers) asked about using a chipper that required a minimum 30 PTO HP to operate. The poster's tractor had 21 PTO HP and he's not going to get the full capacity of that chipper...but if he's just chipping 2-4 inch stuff, he may be quite satisfied.

 

[RoyJackson]

it will work, but just ain't the right tool for the job.

Yeah...true. Might be the OP can only afford one implement...the mower, or the cutter.

I can take a pair of toenail clippers and head out into my pasture and EVENTUALLY get it under controll

there's a fair amount of abuse involved though...

Now that reminds me of scrubbing the deck (in the head) with a toothbrush (Navy bootcamp)...and yes, that was abusive!

 

[LD1]

For the record, what you actually said - and what started this unfortunate exchange in the first place - was "The cutters take less HP to run than the finish belly mower...".

I admitted my mistake....

//greg//

I still agree with ruffdog on this one. But I see your point as well.

If you are mowing your yard, knocking 1.5" off of the top of your plush lawn, then yes, that takes less HP per foot than using a RC and cutting up a field with 30-40" of thick grass. That I think we can agree on.

I took from the context of ruffdogs post (in which you quoted a peice of) that he is mowing an area once ever few weeks. Not as often as a lawn, but still often. And he mentions that his RC takes less HP (boggs down less) and he can travel faster. But at the sacrifice of not quite as clean of a cut.

And this is exactally what I have been talking about. Fields that only get cut once every 2-3 weeks. It is at the upper end of a RFM's capacity, and requires a really slow speed to keep from stalling, but wouldnt even break a sweat for a RC.

The only reason a RC and a RFM are "rated" different by MFG's is because they expect you to be able to go through some really thick stuff with the RC. But are only expecting you to mow a lawn with a RFM. So this comparison is really a moot point, but go mow 36" of thick grass with a RFM, and then do it with a RC of the same size and see which one uses more HP.

No mistakes to admitt IMO

 

[Farmwithjunk]

NEVER being one to argue myself, ( ) and NEVER being one to antagonize folks who ARE arguing/debating an issue ( ) , let just toss this gem into the strum.....

Not EVERY rough cut mower is the same. Not EVERY finish mower is the same. I've seen a few rough cut mowers with sharpened blades that'll outperform many a finish mower for manicuring a "lawn". I've seen the occasional finish mower that'll handle tall, thick grass better than some rough cut mowers............... just sayin'......There are no "across the board absolutes"......

Arguing a point with such a gray area in the middle is just about meaningless without SPECIFIC brands/models and their particular characteristics. Continuing to argue just for the sake of arguing........well.......That speaks volumes too....

 

[Soundguy]

good call.

I actually own a finish mower that is beefy enough to rough cut. the blades are 3/8", and on a blade carrier, and can swing free ( like a rough mower ) and just like ones I had on a 4' rotary mower.. vs fixed 'lawnmower' style blades.. etc.

deck / side height on a rotary cutter really determines alot on how well it finish cuts. the old KK mowers from 10-13 us ago had really short sides and if you had a good 3pt or limit chains.. you could cut down to 2" by adjusting tail wheel. Newer ones and howse units I've seen ( and have ), have a much taller deck.. more like 6", preventing you from cutting much lower than 4-5" etc.

soundguy

 

[stevewatr]

Yeah...true. Might be the OP can only afford one implement...the mower, or the cutter.
?

I'm the OP, and I never said nuttin bout no finish mower

You guys veered off the path to have your own debate a while ago:confused2:

Best I can tell, somthing to do with abuse, and toenail clippers:laughing:

Getting back to my favorite subject........ME! , I started work on the brush hog, and shot more video, but youtube is giving me lots of upload failures lately.

Found out it looks like either my stump jumper, or blade carrier is bent. Think it is worth going through the trouble of trying to remove, and straighten it?

 

[stevewatr]

Got another video on the 305 to upload:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ypNNvLIzQg]Bush hog 305 Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ruffdog]

Steve, I'm wondering if the kk wheel uses a 25mm axle that would measure .984", and that would fit the .990 bushing.

The pto safety sheilds have a slip bushing setup so when you hook up the little chain to it, it keeps it from spinning when the pto spins. I took mine off for now because the large cup shaped ends that cover the u-joints were so large, I couldn't get to the latch pin when hooking up to the pto. I will probably trim the cup back some and reinstall the sheild. My pto shaft has the grooves just like your shaft too.

Keep us posted!

 

[stevewatr]

Steve, I'm wondering if the kk wheel uses a 25mm axle that would measure .984", and that would fit the .990 bushing.

The pto safety sheilds have a slip bushing setup so when you hook up the little chain to it, it keeps it from spinning when the pto spins. I took mine off for now because the large cup shaped ends that cover the u-joints were so large, I couldn't get to the latch pin when hooking up to the pto. I will probably trim the cup back some and reinstall the sheild. My pto shaft has the grooves just like your shaft too.

Keep us posted!

Thanks Ruffdog,
I am going to return the KK wheel, and order the BH215 wheel assemblly. I know I could figure a way to make the wheel work, but I'd rather have a tailwheel with a hub, and actual bearings back there. The cheap KK wheel would probably be fine for the KK made lighter weight "Countyline" cutters.

I just can't decide if to buy a new"yoke" assemblly, or have this one fixed up. The holes are elongated, the spindle is worn, and one fork is bent. Nothing a welder/metal fabricator can't handle, but the new part is $67, plus I save $10 if I buy it with the wheel assemblly. I just worry it will not be as well made as the original. Guess I could call and inquire.

Here is part 3:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBKySEPmpyg"]Bush hog 305 Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[stevewatr]

Okay, now I'm ghetting somewhere. With the help of Bush Hog customer service, I found out my old style fork, part number 7417 can be replaced by the newer style fork/wheel assemblly Part number 12269. The older style wheel hub used 2 tapered bearings to support the wheel, the newer style uses a long roller bearing. The 12269 kit does not appear to be offered complete, unless you buy it aftermarket, for example Tisco 12269. I'm going to roll the dice, and order the Tisco kit for $146.70 plus $17 shipping. I know it will not be as heavy duty as the original, but my hub is completely broken, so I cannot rebuild it, and the fork is also in rough shape. I'll update you guys when it comes in on how good, or bad it is made.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks Ruffdog,
I am going to return the KK wheel, and order the BH215 wheel assemblly. I know I could figure a way to make the wheel work, but I'd rather have a tailwheel with a hub, and actual bearings back there. The cheap KK wheel would probably be fine for the KK made lighter weight "Countyline" cutters.

I just can't decide if to buy a new"yoke" assemblly, or have this one fixed up. The holes are elongated, the spindle is worn, and one fork is bent. Nothing a welder/metal fabricator can't handle, but the new part is $67, plus I save $10 if I buy it with the wheel assemblly. I just worry it will not be as well made as the original. Guess I could call and inquire.

bent fork?

refab it?

here's one I made from scratch for my howse.. got the mower cheap due to the bad wheel...

 

[stevewatr]

bent fork?

refab it?

here's one I made from scratch for my howse.. got the mower cheap due to the bad wheel...

Nice job. My problem is I do not know how to weld. My neighbor has an arc welder, but I hate bothering him. Also, I noticed you reused the original spindle. My spindle is a little chewed up, and the holes for the axle are elongated. Check out video #3 at about the 1:00 mark to see the holes. In the photo, it appears the axle bolt holes were done with a torch, how did you clean them up, i.e. make them round again?

I toyed with the idea of having the local voc tech school make one up, or fix my old one, but that takes to much time.

The new fork is an additional $48 if bought with the wheel/hub. It is $66 bought seperately. If I take my old fork yo a good metal guy, his shop labor rate will make this a deal breaker.

I should get some welding gear and learn, but I know what a good bead looks like, and would not be happy with a sloppy job. Also cannot justify spending the $$ on welding gear right now (married, with children).

 

[stevewatr]

Here is Part 4, take a look at the condition I found the blades in, and check out the bend in the blade carrier:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6aI9JffQU0&feature=related]Bush hog Part 4 - YouTube[/ame]

I'm debateing if I should remove it, and have it straightened in a press.

 

[ruffdog]

Steve....I had to pull a stump jumper off a cutter so I could work on the gear box. The shaft had a tapered spline for the SJ to fit on. The SJ did not have any holes for me to use a puller on so I drilled and tapped two 1/2-13 holes so I could use a puller. I don't know if all the SJs are connected with a tapered spline????

If you can find your grease suction gun, you should stick the hose down to the bottom and suck up a small amount of grease and see if there is water or just nasty stuff. If is nasty, I would flip the mower upside down and let it drain for a day.

There should be a vent for the gear box also. They have the vent/plug combo's or some equipment comes with the plug cross drilled from one wrench flat to the flat on the other side. Then they drill from the grease side center to the cross drilled hole.

 

[stevewatr]

Steve....I had to pull a stump jumper off a cutter so I could work on the gear box. The shaft had a tapered spline for the SJ to fit on. The SJ did not have any holes for me to use a puller on so I drilled and tapped two 1/2-13 holes so I could use a puller. I don't know if all the SJs are connected with a tapered spline????

If you can find your grease suction gun, you should stick the hose down to the bottom and suck up a small amount of grease and see if there is water or just nasty stuff. If is nasty, I would flip the mower upside down and let it drain for a day.

There should be a vent for the gear box also. They have the vent/plug combo's or some equipment comes with the plug cross drilled from one wrench flat to the flat on the other side. Then they drill from the grease side center to the cross drilled hole.

The latest version of the owners' manual for the 305 explainse how to remove the SJ. It mentions the tapered shaft. Here isn the excerpt from the manual:

A. Remove the lower shaft nut and lockwasher.
B.Wearing heavy gloves, grasp blade holder and
pull off tapered shaft. If stuck, align bolt with access
hole in top of cutter deck. Using sledge hammer and
a piece of pipe, strike blade bar. Rotate pan to the
other blade bolt and strike blade bar. Repeat until
blade holder comes off. Care should be taken not to
damage blade bolt threads.

Sounds simple enough :laughing:

Regarding the gear oil; after viewing my video, I tend to think that oil should be changed out, the hardest part will be flipping the cutter over to drain it. As for drilling the fill plug to vent it, I think I might run that by the folks at Brush Hog. For all I know, maybe they even added that to later models.

Thanks again,
Steve W.

 

[Soundguy]

Nice job. My problem is I do not know how to weld. My neighbor has an arc welder, but I hate bothering him. Also, I noticed you reused the original spindle. My spindle is a little chewed up, and the holes for the axle are elongated. Check out video #3 at about the 1:00 mark to see the holes. In the photo, it appears the axle bolt holes were done with a torch, how did you clean them up, i.e. make them round again?
).

I on;y re-used the actual spindle itself.

the side pieces are new, and thus new holes.

could have made it from scratch using the correct round stock or thickwalled pipe..e tc.

if you don't own a torch and welder.. it could be a problem.

if you spread the cost of the gear out over many repairs though.. it mught be a bargain.

I bought my welding gear to fix a broken batwing mower. In my case.. buying an arc welder and chop saw was cheaper than hiring the work done.. so it all paid for itself in 1 job.. so i got lucky I guess...

 

[stevewatr]

I on;y re-used the actual spindle itself.

the side pieces are new, and thus new holes.

could have made it from scratch using the correct round stock or thickwalled pipe..e tc.

if you don't own a torch and welder.. it could be a problem.

if you spread the cost of the gear out over many repairs though.. it mught be a bargain.

I bought my welding gear to fix a broken batwing mower. In my case.. buying an arc welder and chop saw was cheaper than hiring the work done.. so it all paid for itself in 1 job.. so i got lucky I guess...

How hard is it to weld with an oxygen/acetelyne or propolyne torch?

Because I wish I had a torch to help me scrap my backhoe. Some pins are stuck, and some pieces are too big to move, and need to be cut up.