Brush Forks

[JohnS]

Anyone build an attachment for the FEL just for picking-up brush? Lots of pallet forks are used for this, but I don't intend on lifting any palllets, so a less heavy duty solution could be used. It seems like angle iron should suffice, and have some ideas in my head. Would like any feedback from anyone that has built something just for picking-up and hauling brush piles. Thanks.

 

[BB_TX]

There have been numerous threads on this subject. Do a search for forks and you will find several. Here is <font color="blue"> just one </font> of them. Some of these are heavy. Some are light. You could make them out of angle, or sq tube as I did. You can make them as long or short as you want.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Angle iron is strong in 2 directions, & weak in the other 2. I would think box tube would be stronger for the smae weight & cost. I suspect any of us who made such a rig would quickly find tougher used for it, or challenge a slightly bigger hunk of branch....


--->Paul

 

[mikim]

I use a carry-all mounted in my bucket -- serves 2 jobs - brush hauling in front & everything else hauling on the 3 pt in rear. an idea I stole of this site -- one of many /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[JohnS]

Thanks for your responses. I did do a "brush forks" search, prior to posting, and it came-up with zero. A search on "forks" found too many hits, and quick checks produced pallet forks. I must say, I do like the one with hydraulic thumb, given in the link. I will look over more of the "forks" posts, to come-up with ideas. Thanks.

 

[gerard]

Don't know if this will post with the new file size but these are some clamp on forks I made in about an hour from some scrap I had laying around. Not as nice as many I've seen but they work ok and cost nothing but a little time. Think I'll find some smaller square stock that can slip inside the ends so I can make the forks longer when moving brush and other light duty things.......

 

[gerard]

close up

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I've been searching the web for a brush rake small and light enough for a compact tractor. When I think of a bush rake, what I visualize is also called a root rake. Like this:

Obviously, this one is for a dozer, but I've seen others for skidsteer machines and largish tractors. The problem is, most of them are designed to deal with massive, full size trees like oaks, and are built tough enough to withstand that kind of use, pushed by large loaders or dozers. I hired a guy with a Cat 416C loader/backhoe to do the rough clearing on my property, and that's the kind of rake he has. It works exactly like I'd like a brush rake to work.

The key, for me, is to pick up brush that may still be dirt encrusted, and to "shake" off the dirt to make it better to burn. It needs several tines, but also lots of space for the dirt to fall through. A bucket type design doesn't work as well, for me, because the sides of the bucket don't allow the brush to be cradled in the rake.

The ones I have found are too heavy (700 pounds and up) and too expensive. I don't need that kind of mass - only something heavy enough to resist bending up to the limit of where my FEL won't do anything anymore. I'm pretty sure it could be made from lighter weight tubing instead of solid stock. Since I can't find much, and can't afford what I have found, it looks like I'll try to make my own.

I'm open to any and all suggestions, ideas and any previous experience.

Here's one from Worksaver built for skidsteer mounts, 433 pounds, 62" wide, 15" tine spacing:

I couln't find a price, and don't know if it could be bought with FEL mounting. I checked out skidsteer adaptors and they aren't available for my NH 12LA loader.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sounds like you want a manure fork with a grapple.

--->Paul

 

[Boone]

Gerard,
I made a copy of your forks. My modifications were to cut the tips at an angle and weld some flat stock on for a closed point. To prevent the fork from twisting, I welded a 2 or 3 inch piece of 2 inch pipe where the tooth bar tooth and the fork meet.
Thanks for posting your pictures, I really appreciated it.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I couln't find a price...
)</font>

Well, I found a price for that Worksaver unit - $1,045. Guess I'll be making my own...

 

[Boone]

A photo of my Gerard forks.

 

[Boone]

Another photo.

 

[DVerbarg]

There was a thread about a product called the "brush brute" a year or two ago. Pretty interesting attachment for a bucket. The weight of the attachment would require a larger compact tractor.
Could not find the thread but here is a link to their web page:

Brush Brute web page

 

[popeye]

I called them in Canada about 6 mos. ago and one for my MX5000 was about $2000 plus I think. I know it was enough to make me quit thinking about getting one. Although it looks like it would do exactly what I was thinking about doing. Pulling up saplings.
Mike

 

[JohnS]

Well I made some temporary forks on Sunday. I used angle iron from the tractor crate and some 2" X 6" X 17" lumber to wedge and hold them in the bucket. I used them to move about a dozen thorn trees I cut last fall, onto a burn pile. I did have to replace the blocks a couple of times, and ended up bending one fork. Not great, but enough to get that job done. Won't build the permenent ones from angle iron.

 

[uhmgawa]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There was a thread about a product called the "brush brute" a year or two ago. Pretty interesting attachment for a bucket. The weight of the attachment would require a larger compact tractor.
Could not find the thread but here is a link to their web page:

Brush Brute web page

)</font>

Well that's about the most stoic website I've seen in some
time.

Anyway, I had heard about this Brush Brute from a local dealer
who recommends it for removing small trees, brush and the
astonishing amount of laurel with which we find ourself
blessed. The deal is you don't dig with it, rather you
wedge into the teeth what you want to remove around 12-16"
above ground, and use the uplift of the loader (failing
that, the torque of the tractor) to rip the stuff out. If
you look closely the triangular teeth are undercut which
bites deeper into the tree than if the sides were
90-degree vertical.

Looks like it is worth a try but the price for even the
small 58" size is around $1600 plus whatever is required
to attach to your machine. That is rather steep seeing
as one can buy the steel to build it for around $50.

I have the dimensions off of an actual production model
and might actually get around to it at some point. For
those with similar thoughts you may be interested to know
it is a patented design and functionally described in the
accompanying document:

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?patentnumber=5111599

[You'll need a TIFF image file plug-in for your browser to
view the actual images of the patent.]

 

[dmartin88]

I just received my BX22 this week and the "modified" Gerard forks look like exactly what I need as I have a number of brush piles around my property I'd like to move. Could be the excuse I've been looking for to purchase a welder!

 

[LDuke]

Here are some easy medium duty forks plus a bin for leaves and small brush.

Forks are 3x1-1/2 3/16 wall tubing 5 feet long,about $20 + welding
The mounts are 4x1-1/2 heavy channel iron 6 inches long, spaced up 1/8 inch and welded to the bucket. I have a heavy cutting edge on the front of the bucket that provide strength in front. Currently forks are threaded and held by bolts, I need to do something better there.

You need to use common sense about what you use this for you can get too much weight on the front pretty easy. Its great for brush, leaves, and a portable work platform.

Yo

 

[markie61]

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifSomethin' ain't right with that picture.....
Mark