Broken frame to engine bolts

[ptsg]

Here is the Branson torque specs chart:

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks for the chart Ptsg.

 

[tjkubota93]

If its going to be a few days anyway, I would start spraying oil on them now.

They might not need it, but it wont cost you anything but a few moments of precious time.

 

[5030]

Actually, the best penetrating oil is basically free or at least a whole lot cheaper than say PBlaster. Acetone and ATF. 1 part ATF to 4 parts acetone in a squirt bottle. All I use. Cuts rust and frees stuck bolts and assemblies.

 

[Jenkins003]

Thanks 5030, I've used ATF and acetone before to loosen frozen rotors and have had good luck with it. I'll spray some on the broken bolts. I purchased the transfer punches and an ez-out today but so far I can't find anyone around my area that sells left handed bits so I may have to order some. The bolts turned out to be grade 10.9 and M12 x 40mm with a 1.75 pitch.

 

[ericm979]

Be careful with the ez-out. They break off easily. When that happens you have a new more difficult problem. I've used extractors from Snap-on that had a long rod with splines on it, and a hex piece that slid over it so you could turn it. They're not super hardened like the ex-outs and won't snap like they do.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks 5030, I've used ATF and acetone before to loosen frozen rotors and have had good luck with it. I'll spray some on the broken bolts. I purchased the transfer punches and an ez-out today but so far I can't find anyone around my area that sells left handed bits so I may have to order some. The bolts turned out to be grade 10.9 and M12 x 40mm with a 1.75 pitch.

You can buy left hand bits on line from Drillhog.com
Their Molybdenum bits, or their Niobium bits would be a good choice.
Be VERY CAREFUL with ANY E-Z-outs!
When you break them, you will have a real disaster on your hands.

 

[5030]

Actually, if you soak the busted bolts with the ATF / Acetone mix for a couple days prior to, they should come right out so long as they aren't bottomed in the threaded hole. For easy out's I use the the square ones that you drive into the drilled hole with a small hammer. I prefer them over the spiral ones and I use a regular twist drill not a left hand drill. I just blow any chips out with a blow gun.

" Niobium bits" Is that related to unobtanium?

 

[Jenkins003]

You can buy left hand bits on line from Drillhog.com
Their Molybdenum bits, or their Niobium bits would be a good choice.
Be VERY CAREFUL with ANY E-Z-outs!
When you break them, you will have a real disaster on your hands.

Thanks fried1765 for the info. I just ordered the 5 pc Niobium set. I feel safer using the left handed bits than the ez-out.

 

[5030]

You may have to use both but I doubt it.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Thanks 5030, I've used ATF and acetone before to loosen frozen rotors and have had good luck with it. I'll spray some on the broken bolts. I purchased the transfer punches and an ez-out today but so far I can't find anyone around my area that sells left handed bits so I may have to order some. The bolts turned out to be grade 10.9 and M12 x 40mm with a 1.75 pitch.

I love those transfer punches; use them a lot for matching up holes in fab work. I now have ones up to 1". Amazon has a set of LH drills up to 1/2". Not very expensive. I have the set but haven't used it yet; knock on wood. You my get lucky and they will not be sized up with corrosion and come right out.

Ron

 

[5030]

I love those transfer punches; use them a lot for matching up holes in fab work. I now have ones up to 1". Amazon has a set of LH drills up to 1/2". Not very expensive. I have the set but haven't used it yet; knock on wood. You my get lucky and they will not be sized up with corrosion and come right out.

Ron

What the acetone / ATF does, it breaks any corrosion bond. Always good to 'prep' prior to 'removal'.

 

[ruffdog]

Pounding on the slug when the OP center punches it should help loosen it too.

 

[5030]

Every little bit will help I'm sure.

One thing for the OP, just remember to clean all the threaded cavities with brake cleaner before installing the new capscrews. The lock tite won't work if the threads are contaminated with anything.

 

[Texasmark]

It appears these bolts are grade 10.9 and the bolt also has an H5 stamped on it if that means anything. They are 1 1/2 inches long and my owners manual has no torque specs.

Online are generic bolt torque specs both SAE and Metric, dry, new, and wet. Just ask the question.

 

[Jenkins003]

I have looked online for the torque specs. They seem to be all over the board depending on if the bolt is coated or black or dry or wet what ever that means. It appears from what I can make sense of is that the bolts I purchased should be around 85 ft lbs since they are coated. The plain black bolts , which I couldn't find locally, are aroung 93 lbs if I'm correct. I'm still waiting for the left handed drill bits to complete the job.

 

[Diggin It]

If you haven't already been, I'd be shooting them with Blaster every couple of days.

 

[Walter L]

Actually, the best penetrating oil is basically free or at least a whole lot cheaper than say PBlaster. Acetone and ATF. 1 part ATF to 4 parts acetone in a squirt bottle. All I use. Cuts rust and frees stuck bolts and assemblies.

I have used the home made penetrating for yrs but i use it at 50/50 and shake before spraying. Best i have ever used!!

 

[Cougsfan]

People treat torquing bolts as an exact science that has been engineered to a tee. But it isn't at all. It is an interesting subject to read up on. It supposedly relates to the holding force of a particular fastener, and it does if everything in the world was equal. However all sorts of factors enter in such as the quality of the threads, how dirty or how lubricated the threads are, if you use thread lock, if you use washers and what kind, the attributes of the fastener material. and on and on. These variables can change the actually stress put on the fastener (a measure of the holding power) and/or the limits of stress it will accept quite significantly. You are better off to use torque guides as a reference and then apply common sense from there on. More importantly is usually that a series of fasteners are tightened equally. On one extreme the fastener will loosen under use, on the other extreme it will break. You just need to be somewhere in between.

 

[Texasmark]

Should be a bolt torque chart in your owners manual. If not, post the diameter and thread pitch as well as the strength of the replacement bolt and I'll look it up for you.

As I recall the chart is at the very front of the manual....it's in mine.