Broken fastener removal

[jwmorris]

I have removed hundreds of broken and stripped fasteners over the years but never took step by step photos and thought some welders here might pick up another “trick”. Also have used a number of methods like EZ out’s of different styles, left handed drill bits, machining and metal disintegration but my go to is a TIG welder and a nut, if they are a weldable material and not too deep.

I have successfully removed down to #2 screws and down to a #5 set screw with the method.

#1 rule of removing any fastener is to not do anything to make things worse than they already are. Very important, you drill an off center hole, then break an ez out off and I’d tell you, you should have come seen me earlier.

In this case an exhaust stud broke off in the head, a successful removal means the engine or head doesn’t need to be removed and as luck would have it the area was tight enough the fellow couldn’t get in there with a drill to mess anything up. It did however break off below flush.

Used ER70s filler to weld to the stud and bring the puddle out side of the head, to the point I can set a nut on it and creat a “bolt”.

Then weld a nut to it and put a lot of heat into it. This expands what is stuck in the part as much as possible.

As it cools I put some tension on it, not much but looking for the point it moves as it cools, then work back and forth, penetrating oil is helpful once it starts moving.

Once out, your ready to go back together.

You can see the depth of the broken stud, once removed because that’s how much weld bead vs threads there are.

Dissimilar metals make things a lot easier but with care steel on steel isn’t that difficult. It’s also useful for things that are not fasteners like the tip of this small drill bit that broke off in a part and successfully removed.

 

[Rustyiron]

Beautiful, patient work, but I don't understand how you weld your "false" stud to the broken AND BELOW the surface stud?
I'm going back to read it again to see what I missed, but my hats off to you.

 

[Roadworthy]

I've never done that. I don't have a TIG setup and I shake but I've heard of the method before. Thank you for going to the trouble of providing an illustrated step by step.

 

[jwmorris]

I don't understand how you weld your "false" stud to the broken AND BELOW the surface stud?

The deeper the hole, the more you will have to extend the tungsten out from the torch. Shielding gas works fine because you are inside a blind hole.

If the fasteners are large enough MIG and Stick will work too, you can’t sink in as much heat with them though. You can throttle back a TIG and just keep it glowing vs melt away.

 

[WranglerX]

Have been able to extend the deep broken stud with a MIG welder, but requires a bit of finesse as it is not quite as controllable as TIG....

 

[Thomas]

Gotta remember that try.

 

[marhar]

Very impressive. I especially like rule number 1. "not do anything to make things worse than they already are. Very important, you drill an off center hole, then break an ez out off and I’d tell you, you should have come seen me earlier."
In my past, I unfortunately have broken the rule.

When you weld to the stud how are you able to keep the weld off the threads of the hole? I see picture 2 and you did it.


Thanks

 

[jaxs]

Very impressive.
When you weld to the stud how are you able to keep the weld off the threads of the hole? I see picture 2 and you did it.


Thanks

The head is aluminum

 

[al3]

Beautiful, patient work, but I don't understand how you weld your "false" stud to the broken AND BELOW the surface stud?
I'm going back to read it again to see what I missed, but my hats off to you.

When the broken stud is recessed, as in this one, I've had success by building up small beads, layer by layer, until it protrudes above the surface of the block/cylinder/whatever. Think momentary puddle with a tad of filler rod. Build it up bit by bit. TIG/Pedal control. Once enough layers have built up and it above the surrounding surface add a on short bolt or a nut as appropriate. There's a good video of a fellow in Australia removing a deep automotive stud this way. If I can find it I'll post a link.

Later: couldn't find the one I had in mind. This one shows a slightly recessed broken press pin being removed, start at about the 3 1/2 min point

Wish I could control a torch like the guy below. Instead, I do an on/off pulse with the tungsten in one location. Issue I have when deep in a hole is arc sometimes wants to jump to the filler rod

 

[jwmorris]

When you weld to the stud how are you able to keep the weld off the threads of the hole? I see picture 2 and you did it.

Dissimilar metals. Aluminum and cast iron are easy as your steel filler rod wants to go to the steel fastener and not the material it broke off into. It takes more precise control on something like that tiny drill bit broken off in steel. Generally start the arc then make sure it is arching off the part you want to remove vs the parent material before you throttle up the current enough to melt anything.