Broke the new Deere

[Diggin It]

Exactly what I was thinking. They seemed to do a rush job to fix the obvious problems and get it back to the customer, which some people would hail. However, did they do a thorough and proper inspection? Maybe not. Did they really diagnose what failed, or caused it to fail so as to avoid a repeat? Time will tell.

 

[murphy1244]

Maybe they repaired a symptom and not found the problem yet.

 

[ovrszd]

Exactly what I was thinking. They seemed to do a rush job to fix the obvious problems and get it back to the customer, which some people would hail. However, did they do a thorough and proper inspection? Maybe not. Did they really diagnose what failed, or caused it to fail so as to avoid a repeat? Time will tell.

That would be my concern as well. I abuse the crap out of driveline in my hobby. I don't think a U-joint coming apart caused this breakdown. Time will tell.

Hoping for a positive outcome!!!!

 

[ovrszd]

Maybe they repaired a symptom and not found the problem yet.

Dangit Murph, why didn't I just say that rather than my lengthy response......

 

[ovrszd]

Maybe they repaired a symptom and not found the problem yet.

Oh,,, nice Avatar,,, although a bit out of season...….

 

[murphy1244]

Oh,,, nice Avatar,,, although a bit out of season...?

What is wrong with it??

 

[Jstpssng]

I guess that it would have been better to let it set around for a couple of months like some dealers do, then tell the owner that there's nothing wrong with it. Or do like what happened when the front axle sheared off on a friend's 3 month old Montana; make him pay the two thousand dollar difference between what the manufacturer allowed for the repairs and what the dealer felt that it was worth.

 

[searcyfarms]

i will say from my experience with cracked things - it all depends on the crack/metal, its a long time before you realize they are cracked, sometimes there is even rust internally on things before they fatigue enough to finally break, im glad this broke right away because chances are if it had not i might have had to pay for it later not knowing and just suspecting the cause - no one is perfect - my cousin has a 1206 Farmall, was hauling hay with it like he had done a hundered times before FOR YEARS, had just rand down the road hi speed turned into our old home place was going slow up the driveway and snap, rear axle broke, right inside the rear housing, rear wheel bent the fender in and pinned him in the seat and broke a couple ribs, the shaft looked like it has been cracked for years and finally came in two, it was rusty inside from moisture over the years before it finally broke - who knows how long it has been - that tractor has been ran hard for years, running duals, disking etc......i dont expect everyone and everything to be perfect and catch things 100% of the time, I know the mechanic and svc mgr well enough i feel comfortable in knowing they did their best. I never pressure them with a time frame I just let them work.

 

[finn1]

i will say from my experience with cracked things - it all depends on the crack/metal, its a long time before you realize they are cracked, sometimes there is even rust internally on things before they fatigue enough to finally break, im glad this broke right away because chances are if it had not i might have had to pay for it later not knowing and just suspecting the cause - no one is perfect - my cousin has a 1206 Farmall, was hauling hay with it like he had done a hundered times before FOR YEARS, had just rand down the road hi speed turned into our old home place was going slow up the driveway and snap, rear axle broke, right inside the rear housing, rear wheel bent the fender in and pinned him in the seat and broke a couple ribs, the shaft looked like it has been cracked for years and finally came in two, it was rusty inside from moisture over the years before it finally broke - who knows how long it has been - that tractor has been ran hard for years, running duals, disking etc......i dont expect everyone and everything to be perfect and catch things 100% of the time, I know the mechanic and svc mgr well enough i feel comfortable in knowing they did their best. I never pressure them with a time frame I just let them work.

The “rust “ in a fatigue failure like that is called fretting corrosion. It is caused by micro motion between two surfaces hat have partially separated in the fatigue zone.

Eventually the crack propagated to the point that there is a catastrophic failure and th parts (axle shaft in this case) separate.

Moisture had nothing to do with it.

 

[searcyfarms]

hey finn, thats interesting to know, i am sure that axle had been flexing and moving for years before it finally broke like that we are so glad that it didnt happen when he was going do the road full speed when it snapped it could have been certain death for him = sometimes blessings come in peculiar packages

 

[MHarryE]

Entire incident aligns with engineering sense. Spline on rear PTO worked forward and dropped at worst possible time - roaring - Murphy’s law. Splines on FWD shafts working off are not that uncommon - several instances here including 2 reported by me. Had seen them here before so knew exactly where to look when I lost FWD and when BIL called me to ask for help. Sacking the drive - you said there was damage so one could say they should have caught it but if crack wasn’t easily visible and oil not leaking out, I’d give benefit of the doubt. What I find great for you is dealer didn’t make you wait for weeks for parts. I’ve read the stories about 3 weeks to look at it, 4 weeks for parts to arrive on container ship from Asia, and repair made in time to put up for winter. Great dealer. Reminds me of incident - testing prototype combine in Colorado. Fuel injection pump started leaking. My mechanic and I diagnosed blown o-ring, went to our company’s dealer. Would need to have flown in, wouldn’t want to pay air freight on 37 cent o-ring. Left and went to JD dealer because they used same injection pump. Parts man, seeing logo on our caps and name on our service truck, looked it up and didn’t have in stock but said follow him to shop to talk with an old time mechanic. He said he never threw parts from kits away and we could all look through his assortment. Found one that matched, no charge, glad to help, and Richard and I had combine back running within the hour. That’s the dealer I’d buy from.

 

[searcyfarms]

those old school folks are harder to find these days but they are still around and hopefully some of that is rubbing off on next generations in the shops we all frequent for future incidents that require old fashioned figure it out vs text book, dont get me wrong, text books are very much required and more than valuable but the goodie buckets/jars/cans of leftovers have fixed many things over the years and will continue to do so - my wife calls me a horder but I am her best friend when she says do you have something like this, i just broke the X and I say well.........let me go look in my goodies in the barn in and see what i can find ;-)

the most valuable things at a lot of farm sales are cans of bolts/nuts/screws/leftovers if you know what i mean

 

[ovrszd]

What is wrong with it??

Either the trees are dead or they are Winter dormant???

Whats the tractor nosing outta the barn?

 

[searcyfarms]

ok so everything seems good so now on to find out why i have this annoying noise when i go across uneven ground on the right left side of the deck vs right side of the deck - finally was able to get my wife to run it while i walk along side becuase of all the stupid stinking safety switches GRRRRRRR - so i find there is a bolt/nut that are hitting the mid pto ujoint that runs from the trannie down to the mower deck gearbox - the ujoint that is hitting the bolt/nut is at the gearbox of the mower deck - its chewed into the u joint slightly - nothing horrific but dang sure loud enough to drive u nuts off/on - oh i could fix it but im wondering now if deere has a Svc Bulletin OR the flange bolt head is supposed to be on the inside and the bolt/nut on the outside, i could certainly fix it i believe with my own skills BUT i dont want to void my wty by making some modifications before i contact my dealer and have him investigate.

I tell ya, these knucklehead mechanical engineers that sit behind desks with their fancy CAD machines need to get out here in the real world and live it!!!! BACK to DEERE she GOES!!!

 

[searcyfarms]

clarification - left side going over hump creates noise right side doesnt - its while you are sitting in the seat to determine the side - this is an autoconnect 72in MMM just for reference

 

[Redlands Okie]

Good info so far, thanks OP

 

[Diggin It]

- so i find there is a bolt/nut that are hitting the mid pto ujoint that runs from the trannie down to the mower deck gearbox - the ujoint that is hitting the bolt/nut is at the gearbox of the mower deck - its chewed into the u joint slightly -

Perhaps you've discovered the original problem?

 

[ovrszd]

I won't try to explain this in detail but the deck lift system needs adjusted to prevent the deck from going that high when you drag it over a hump.

This and the other issues you've had could have been minimized by a thorough dealer prep.

 

[searcyfarms]

once it gets out of position - the noise will stay - regardless of the height of the deck - its less loud when i lower it all the way to position 1 and worse when i lift it to 6

so something is getting out of alignment somewhere its not just a height issue

 

[ovrszd]

once it gets out of position - the noise will stay - regardless of the height of the deck - its less loud when i lower it all the way to position 1 and worse when i lift it to 6

so something is getting out of alignment somewhere its not just a height issue

Yeah, now I understand. Have no clue what that's about.

Maybe something got bent during your driveline failure?