Bridge I-Beam cutting.

[Oldpath05]

20>1/16 + 6>.045 @$2.75/disc= 26= $71.50+ tax. I like .045 better for cutting.

 

[Deere Dude]

20>1/16 + 6>.045 @$2.75/disc= 26= $71.50+ tax. I like .045 better for cutting.

HF is my friend. .50-.75 a disc on sale plus a free flashlight.

 

[4570Man]

I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.

 

[LD1]

HF is my friend. .50-.75 a disc on sale plus a free flashlight.

Since you used BOTH sizes....what are your opinions on the 0.045" discs. Did you notice an improvement in cut speed?

And running them on a GOOD grinder...like something 10A or bigger helps ALOT too with cut speed.

I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.

Never used the HF ones.....But have used the HF 3" discs for the air tools. I have no complaints with them.

In general though....there are two main types of disc "materials". Aluminum oxide and zirconium. Zirconium last longer, but costs a tad more $$$

Here is what we use at work .45 Type 27 (42) & Type 1 (41) | United Abrasives

 

[GLyford]

I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.

The problem is there are 3 different types of HF cutoff wheels. One made in russia (silver label) and two made in china (black/green). One of the chinese types has the fibers widely spaced (1/4" apart or so), those don't last long and disintegrate at the slightest bind. The russian ones (which are likely all sold by now) and the newer chinese ones both have more close spaced fiber mesh holding the grit, cut better and last longer. So only buy the HF ones if the fiber spacing showing on the back side is 1/8" or less.

 

[Deere Dude]

Since you used BOTH sizes....what are your opinions on the 0.045" discs. Did you notice an improvement in cut speed?

And running them on a GOOD grinder...like something 10A or bigger helps ALOT too with cut speed.


Never used the HF ones.....But have used the HF 3" discs for the air tools. I have no complaints with them.

In general though....there are two main types of disc "materials". Aluminum oxide and zirconium. Zirconium last longer, but costs a tad more $$$

Here is what we use at work .45 Type 27 (42) & Type 1 (41) | United Abrasives

I used something like this with a trigger set toward the rear handle. It is the smoooothest of my 5 grinders by far to operate. Of course I took the guard and handle off and just held the head with the non trigger hand.
I found the .045 discs work well when there is absolutely no binding or pinching or any deep cuts. I found my self wishing my stash of .045s were done so I could stick to the 1/16. Maybe i am not careful enough with them to make them last longer???

 

[Deere Dude]

I finally got the beams cut off, squared up and welded together... I used 7018AC rods at someones suggestion and they worked fine for my. I had 10# of 7018 rods that I couldn't make an arc to save my but, so in the pond they went.

I had some 5/16? x 5-1/2" plate so I welded a 12" piece on each side of the joint. Everything went smooth until I welded some angle iron to an edge of the outside beams. This is for bolts holes to hold down wood. The beam warped sideways maybe a couple inches in the center of a 24' span. The second one I put a chain with a come-along and blocking to hold it straight while more judicious welding and that was a little better, but still warped and inch or so. I will have to figure a way to straighten them out before placing, or maybe not. I set the beam on blocks 23' apart and there is no sag whatsoever so I am happy there.

Now I am wire brushing them, putting rust reformer on and painting John Deere Green of course. Or whatever good oil base paint I have around. The chipmunks won't complain either way.

I will be working as the weather allows in my little garage but want to try to get them painted and then place them eventually, maybe in February.

The ends will sit on either a 6" I-beam on concrete or 5" galvanized angle iron. Not sure yet. With angle iron I won't have to go so deep for header concrete. Fot the other end maybe I will just let is sit on the ground and ramp it up with dirt to wood level.

The wife is finally accepting my conglomeration and is on board with it. .














Without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few.

Chuck

 

[Big Barn]

Looks good! I for one always appreciate pics

 

[Oldpath05]

I wish those 7014 rods went in a pond near me, one of the easiest rods to weld with.................

 

[Deere Dude]

I wish those 7014 rods went in a pond near me, one of the easiest rods to weld with.................

Sorry for my mix up in misleading you. It was 7018 rods I got rid of. I edited the post. I like 7014 rods the best to work with.

 

[LD1]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

 

[Deere Dude]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

The first pic is where the flange is located and the second is the angles added for bolting the wood to the beams. I didn't get a close-up picture of the weld job because I didn't want all those "great job" compliments.

Actually, I never considered welding under the beam flange as I never saw it done plus I figured the amount of beams plus staggered joints near the ends was overkill anyway. I did taper every joint and ground out scrammys before second pass welding.

 

[aczlan]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

You can sort of see it in this one:

Without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few.
View attachment 581196

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

 

[fried1765]

You can sort of see it in this one:

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

" I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical"
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!

The bottom is in tension, and will try to pull the butt welds apart.

 

[Deere Dude]

" I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical"
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!

The bottom is in tension, and will try to pull the butt welds apart.

I have enough 5.5" flat stock in the barn so I will add to the bottom flange. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Streetcar]

You can sort of see it in this one:

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

+1 good advice on shape of splice plate

 

[Oldpath05]

View attachment 581192 View attachment 581194 View attachment 581198

If your going to be a JD fan might as well go all the way. You have any trouble with pin hole with using 7018 ac rods? The last time I used those I had to shine the steel up before welding or get pin holes. I've been doing "Judicious Welding" for around 40 years and I still think it's darn hard to stop steel from moving when welding, to keep it from moving you'll need judicious rigging to hold it.

From what I see your doing a great job on this bridge, like the add on holes for planking, looks like it will hold a dump truck. What is this gully the bridge is for, 5,10' deep, is it for storm run off water? Should be interesting putting it in place.

 

[Tractorable]

Next time just buy an old 53ft flat bed trailer, remove the axles, cut it in half, and drag it over the gully. They make great bridges.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/170260-flatbed-trailer-bridge.html

 

[kc5dlo]

As far as the warped beams go, I am reminded of a story from a friend that worked at a plant and one of the projects was a set of steel beams for a bridge that had a slight curve in them. Everyone was wondering how to put the slight bend in the beams. An old timer got a big torch and would heat a section of the beam and then get a cup of water and slowly pour it on the side of the beam that needed to be curved in.

 

[Deere Dude]

I finally got my bridge done this week. The far lower end I raised the bridge and cemented two pillars where the tractor wheels would go. Then I concreted an 18" deep x 12" wide surface for approaching the end of the wooded section (No picture yet). I surfaced it with treated 2x10s plus 4 rows of 2x10s where the tractor wheels mostly go. I talked to the lumber yard and he said if heavy semis etc would cross, heavier wood would be needed but I feel very comfortable driving 6k across.

I never measure and downward movement before and after my tractor is on but it sure feels solid as a rock.