Break-in Period

/ Break-in Period #1  

DanielTerence

Bronze Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
63
Tractor
Kubota L2800
I apologize if this has been asked before. My Kubota L2800 manual says not to run the tractor at full speed for the first 50 hours. I assume that refers to RPMs. How can I use the tractor, FEL work and brush hogging, and at the same time "baby" it for 50 hours?

So far I am just keeping the RPMS around 2400, but I've got work to do.
 
/ Break-in Period #2  
Do you need more RPM's then that? I have 600 hours on my L3830 but still run it at about 2000 to 2300 RPM, that is my "sweet spot". Typically your 540 PTO RPM is still slightly below WOT or maximum RPM. With all the work it sounds like you have to do, 50 hours should be obtained in a week.
 
/ Break-in Period
  • Thread Starter
#3  
My Dealer told me to run the tractor wide open, full RPMs once it is broken in. Everything is working around 2400, but I just want to be sure I'm not harming anything by doing at lot of work at 2400. I've got about 10 hours on the tractor and most of that has been spend moving dirt.
 
/ Break-in Period #4  
Some folks run their tractors at PTO RPM for everything. I could not stand to do this. The main thing is to avoid lugging the engine. I like my tractor at 2200 RPM for loader work as it gives me great loader speed, pretty quiet operation and about all the power the diesel has. You can experiment and find your diesels sweet spot. I would disagree with your dealer. There is no way I want to run at WOT, to loud, loss of control, more fuel. Just don't lug the diesel and you will be fine.
 
/ Break-in Period #6  
I like what PlainDave had to say in one of your links Bird. I am of a similar mindset. Todays metlurgy, design and machining have changed much of what we once always did to "break in" an engine.
 
/ Break-in Period #7  
I agree, RaT. I'm actually of the opinion that you "break it in the way you intend to use it." I do believe in varying both RPM and load during the first few hours, but I "broke in" my tractors by using them from the time I got them. And I broke in new cars and pickups "pedal to the metal" within the first day or two and I've never had an oil burner yet.
 
/ Break-in Period #8  
This thread reminds me of a thread on a forum I read shortly after buying a new truck.

Here's my logic: Kubota makes the tractor and they are telling you the best way to break it in. Why wouldn't you believe that they know best? Sure, it might help you to be able to run it wide open right away, but in the scheme of things, what is 50 hours out of the possible thousands you'll be putting on this tractor?

I have a smaller tractor than you, with a shorter break in period, but I have been following the break-in suggestions in the manual (not from my dealer who also said not to worry about it). I have been varying the speed, but not going over 3/4 throttle. As I get closer to the break-in mark (10 hours on my BX), I will push it toward the full point more and more, and then afterward put it there only when I really need it (going up hill with loader full of heavy dirt). Otherwise, I will vary the speed according to what I need.

Again, I assume Kubota has a vested and informed interest in making sure your tractor runs a long long time. That seems like a safe assumption.
 
/ Break-in Period #9  
<font color="blue"> You don't want to "baby" one during break-in, in my opinion. </font>
That's the way I feel. Matter of a fact, a lot of dealers that deal in larger tractors will put them on a dyno for two to four hours pulling a heavy load before they will even deliver a new tractor. Then when the farmer gets the tractor, they will work it like they are going to from then on. I have seen to many cars, trucks and tractors that used oil because they were babied.
 
/ Break-in Period #10  
Tell an 18-wheeler driver to baby his new Freightliner for the first 50 hours and not put a heavy strain on it!

My first 11 hours had the the RPMs between 2000-2300 for mowing, discing and some loader work.
 
/ Break-in Period #11  
I certainly won't disagree with you, and won't tell you to do anything different from what the manufacturer's manual says to do. But I can tell you that sometimes manuals, no matter what kind of manual or what product, become outdated and are not kept up to date. I've bought repair manuals for new vehicles that had errors in them. The headlights on my new 1989 Chevrolet pickup did NOT work like the manual said, and I learned that GM changed the way the headlights worked, but didn't get around to changing the manual. I found a similar error in a Chrysler station wagon manual. And the owner's manual for each of my Kubotas said to use 10W-30 motor oil with a CC or CD rating. Those are obsolete ratings. I guess you might say the manual is correct since the higher ratings "include" the lower or older ones. And when a manual says to not operate the machine at "full speed" without specifying any particular RPM; just what does that mean? Wouldn't one RPM be less than "full speed"? Have you ever asked a dealer, or a factory service rep, what that means and how the tractor should be broken in? The manual doesn't say to run it at 3/4 throttle or less. I know from personal experience that it's very difficult to write any manual that covers every detail and every possible scenario. I can't help but wonder just how close the coordination is between the people who write those tractor manuals and the people who designed them. Are you old enough to remember when most new car manuals had a similar recommendation for breaking them in at slower speeds the first thousand miles or so? Does any car manufacturer include such instructions today? I haven't seen that in quite some time. And, like JerryG said, I'd expect less trouble and less oil consumption on a machine that I broke in than one broken in slow, as you say you're doing. Of course there's also a few differences in gasoline vs. diesel engines, and engines designed for different uses. Most tractors are designed to run high RPM continuously all day long on the farm after "break in".

Now I certainly don't intend to tell you, or anyone else, to do anything different from what the manual says. I can only tell you what I do after years of working in my Dad's service station and auto parts store, growing up around mechanics, being a fleet manager in later years, and owning and operating a lot of different machines.And, like JerryG said, I'd expect less trouble and less oil consumption on a machine that I broke in than one broke in slow, as you say you're doing.
 
/ Break-in Period #12  
Well Daniel, are you thoroughly confused? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif My suggest above all else, follow the manufactuers recommendation. Specifically don't operate the engine at wide open throttle. Varying the RPM, heavy use are not forbidden. In fifty hours time you can do as you wish. Even WOT is not all that fast on these diesels. But if Kubota says not to do it, thats where I would be. Varying the engine RPM is perhaps applicable to autos, but tractors, generators etc might not fall into this group so readily. I mean can you imagine diesel generators having a breakin where this was the case. Both your frequency (Hz) and your voltage would go astray.
 
/ Break-in Period #13  
I chose to follow the manufacturers recommendation so I didn't run WOT and I varied RPM's until I hit 50 hrs. I don't know if that'll make the engine run longer/better but it didn't take too long to reach the magic number so no harm no foul.

Back when I still owned my 48 TE20, I was able to find a reprinted original owners manual on it and one of the 1st instructions in it was to not run WOT and to vary the speed for the 1st 50 hrs, just like my 2004 BX23's owners manual.

The owners manual for my old 77 HD FXE also stated the same thing but it indicated that the magic number was 500 miles.

IMHO, compareing an automotive engine to a tractor engine is akin to compareing apples to oranges. One is designed to use varying rpm to control it's power output whilst the other is designed to maintain a specific rpm/power output regardless of the speed or load on the vehicle.

Since varying speed is a major component in several manufacturers breakin recommendation, and seeing as how varying rpm hense speed is SOP in automotive engines, both diesel & gasoline, these engines are useing the same proceedure for breakin that constant rpm engines are recommended to use in their normal operation.

With all the newer more refined materials and engineering in modern engines these days the old tried and true recomendations for takeing it easy for the 1st 50hrs may not be as applicable now as it was back when. But it definitely doesn't hurt to follow the manufacturers recommendations.....

Good luck
Volfandt
 
/ Break-in Period #14  
I think I had mine at WOT before it had two or three hours on it. Worked fine for me so far. They are just trying to get any slight mis-machinings "hot spots" to wear in without transferring any metal in my pretty uninformed opinion. I don't think either method is an issue. How far off WOT is not WOT? 50 RPM, 200? I don't recall my manual stating a speed other than not WOT. Maybe it does, just don't recall that. I'm with several others. Run it like you want and intend to. I don't run mine much over 2,300 that often, but when I need or want it, to the firewall>>>>> The only motors I've lost prematurely were the ones I babied. I'll spare you that list. That rule really must have been made for me.
 
/ Break-in Period #15  
Most diesel engines are run at WOT before they are assembled into a truck or tractor to seat the rings and make sure she's ready for battle.

I've heard of people taking tours of International's Indianapolis diesel engine assembly line and those engines are tested at and beyond WOT before they get installed in a truck. Pretty impressive from what I hear.

However WOT on a engine stand is less strenuous than WOT with a drivetrain attached.
 
/ Break-in Period #16  
Daniel,

You sure stirred up a lot of excitement with such a basic question!

In your post you noted that you want to do FEL work and hogging. Those tasks should probably be best done in that order, as FEL work is easier on the engine and will ensure that you use various speeds and reverse. I run the tractor at 1800-2000 for most FEL operations, only if I am needed to lift max weight at max speed do I run at PTO speed. There just isn't a need most of the time (90%).

About the only activity that you might want to shy away from would be unloading the tractor from the trailer and immediately pulling a plow at MAX RPM. Note that PTO speed is below max rpm.

In the "old days" the engine was the most critical item being broken in. Worn smooth is probably a better description. Nowadays, the rear differential is the most critical thing getting worn in. The tolerances are super close and the friction is high. Probably the best advice is to run the tractor for 15 min in a joy ride manor, just getting to know it. Stop the tractor, double check the bolt torque on the wheels, tire pressure, oil levels, coolant and give the grease fittings all a couple squeezes. Then run it for 30 min and double check the levels again. Then run it for an hour, take a break have an adult bev and double check everything. At that point, your tractor is probably good to do any task except heavy pulling. I would wait until there are 10 hours on the clock for that. Running the engine at PTO speed is OK even from the start, but it is better to run various engine speeds instead of just one. After your first 8- 10 hours of FEL work, double check the torque on the loader frame bolts. Remember to give the machine extra respect while you are learning all about it. Farming is one of the most dangerous jobs in the world.

As you heard from the previous posts, there are many acceptable methods of bringing a new tractor into production. Thankfully, Kubota's are very robust and hard to hurt, so I don't think it is really a big deal no matter what you do. The only difference will be in longevity and that is going to take 5,000 to 15,000 clock hours to figure out who has it most right!

jb
 
/ Break-in Period #17  
You are right. I just checked the manual and it does not say run it at 3/4 throttle or less. It just says "Do not run engine at full speed for the first 50 hours." I must have read 3/4 on a post or something.

Well, anyway, I still plan to avoid full throttle. Maybe the manual is inaccurate, maybe there's not good communication between manual writers and engineers, and maybe the manual is outdated. Then again, that's a lot of maybes. The far more likely scenario is that Kubota knows how it makes its tractors, has a vested interest in having its tractors run well (better reputation, better sales, more repeat customers), and believes its a good idea to avoid full throttle for the first 50 hours for a good reason.

And, as someone else said, its not likely to harm the engine by avoiding full throttle, especially if you otherwise vary RPMs and workloads during the break-in period. I haven't found the need to run full throttle yet anyway, so its kind of a moot point for me.
 
/ Break-in Period
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Wow, lots of good comments! Here's my plan:
Not worry about it, but vary speeds, do the work I need to do, stay away from WOT, and avoid pulling heavy loads (which I don't plan on anyway), and probably in general keep it around PTO RPMs.

Thanks again.
 
/ Break-in Period #19  
This is really funny, I have a L2800 tractor also a Grasshopper ZTR and it has a 21hp Kubota diesel, the Kubota manual for the ZTR under "break in" says nothing about what rpms you should run at, it just says to change the oil at first 50hrs.

I think there are other things with the tractor that need to "break in" before you go full bore with the engine rpms.
 

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