Branson 4520R New Owner

[JonnyRed]

After much research and several test drives of other brands I ended up purchasing a 2016 Branson 4520R today. I also picked up a 6' bush hog, 6' box blade and a set of ssqa pallet forks. I didn't find much in the way of reviews on this particular tractor on the web so I intend on documenting things here as time goes on. This is my first tractor and I am going to use it on my 7 acre home site.

On to the pics!

 

[Helitech]

Congrats on the new ride! I've got about 30 hours on my 5220r so far and I'm loving it!

 

[JonnyRed]

Did some work on pine trees today.

Found the relief valve on the loader pretty quickly!

After putting the tractor in the garage for the night I attempted to remove the nuts that hold the tire/outer rim on in order to gain some width on the back for next time out.

Quickly realized that when bolts are torqued to 200 + Ft Lbs a 1/2 breaker bar and a cheater pipe aren't enough. Going to Harbor Freight to pick up a 3/4 breaker bar, 3/4 6" extension and a 3/4 24mm socket.

I'll document the width in the rear prior and after I extend both sides, should gain 3-4 " I would guess.

 

[Texasmark]

I assume the 200 # torque is specified in your service manual.

Curious as to why you have ag tires on the rear and industrials on the front. Industrials don't grip like ag tires if you plan on using your 4wd that much. Flip side is that with the almost continuous rib down the center industrials ride smoother than ag. Gotta decide what's important. My 6530 has both ag. to do ag chores. The 2400 has ind and ind and is an around the house helper and grass mower. Don't need a lot of traction but want the soft ride.

If you are going to do something about what they sold you, now is the time to do it. Don't wait.

 

[JonnyRed]

The torque spec is actually 250 # torque on outer wheel bolts according to the manual.

The pictures must be deceiving because all 4 tires are R4.

Fronts are Galaxy 12X16.5 XD2010
Rears are Galaxy 16.9-24 EZ Rider R4

You made me look though. :thumbsup:

 

[coralhead]

These are the agri tires on my 4520R. I purchased mine last fall and am really happy with it. Just did my 50 oil service yesterday. Congrats on your purchase. I spread my rear tires out as well and gained 4" on the spread. Are your tires filled with fluid? When I moved mine out I removed the center dish as well and did the move then put the wheels back on the lug nuts. The fit between the dish and the rims can be pretty tight. I did it this way because I did not want to scratch up the new wheels and took advantage of the fixed studs in the hub to help get the wheel assembly back on the tractor. (Note: picture is before wheel move)

 

[JonnyRed]

Looks good coral, I like the look of agri tires. I haven't had any traction issues worth mentioning yet with the R4's on mine. Just hit 7 hours on it. I do not have any liquid ballast in the rear tires yet, figure I will carry the box blade to help with that. I like your idea of removing the entire wheel to facilitate the width adjustment, I was simply going to remove the outer nuts and rotate the rim "over" the center dish. I don't want to scratch my wheels but I am not going to lose any sleep over it if I do. Did you torque everything back to spec or did you just go as tight as you could? I picked up a 300 ft lb torque wrench at harbor freight for $59 with my discount. Let me know if you have any issues I might want to look out for. So far only minor things on mine like one of the rops pins is a pain in the *ss to get in and out. Upon inspection it just doesn't line up as good as it should, I'll have to see if I can bend it into position or maybe just grind some of the material off of the pin. Also had one of my grease zerks (front zerk on front axle) that didn't initially want to take any grease, I tried again after running machine today and it took the grease. How are you running your machine to make sure that the tier 4 emissions is working as it should? My dealer recommended running the tractor at around 2300 rpms or so the majority of the time. I just don't know if going in and out of reverse on a shuttle shift at 2300 rpms is an issue for the clutch? Learning as I go.

Thanks

 

[DK35vince]

How are you running your machine to make sure that the tier 4 emissions is working as it should? My dealer recommended running the tractor at around 2300 rpms or so the majority of the time. I just don't know if going in and out of reverse on a shuttle shift at 2300 rpms is an issue for the clutch? Learning as I go.

Can't be good for the clutch.
I know I wouldn't do that with mine.

 

[coralhead]

So far only minor things on mine like one of the rops pins is a pain in the *ss to get in and out. Upon inspection it just doesn't line up as good as it should, I'll have to see if I can bend it into position or maybe just grind some of the material off of the pin.
Thanks

I had the same issue with mine, I took them to work and turned them on a lathe to get some lead in on the ends. I will post a few pics of how I modified them. No issues now.

 

[coralhead]

Here is the way I modified my ROPS pins to make easier to remove. I am not sure of the taper in degrees but you get the idea.

 

[Texasmark]

................ and took advantage of the fixed studs in the hub to help get the wheel assembly back on the tractor.

I hear you on that. I don't know who else does that but I know who else didn't do that and as you said it doessssss make a difference. Just another little charm on the Branson bracelet.

 

[Texasmark]

Also had one of my grease zerks (front zerk on front axle) that didn't initially want to take any grease, I tried again after running machine today and it took the grease.

One of the "problems" with new equipment.....grin. I experienced the same thing, having never had a new tractor before and never experienced it on my old ones over the years. If it won't take it on another one or so, look at the position of the zerk and put pressure on the joint from the opposite direction......or get a helper and have them move the joint up and down with the hydraulics while you keep positive pressure on the gun.

Other problems you may experience is shifting resistance into gear especially, sometimes out also, and 4wd maybe needing a little fore or aft motion to get it to move in or out......my 6530 is just now limbering up at 1000 hrs. I had to get in R and give it a little throttle and then let off and as I did put pressure on the lever to get it in.

I bought the gear version of the 2400 due to type of usage and it too is really stiff. Dropping the rpms to idle really helps on both tractors.

Can't comment on emission rpms. If you are running a F-R shuttle shift, it doesn't care, but as you said, the "dry disc clutch" is what breaks the connection and the more you let it slip (due to high rpms) the faster the surface will wear out.

Forgot to mention it before but congrats on you purchase. I know you are proud of it and fortunate to be able to get into farming without having to make do with somebody elses worn out junk. It took me about 30 years before I could afford to buy new.

 

[Mr Bitz]

Your new tractor looks awesome. Congrats.. Branson recommends running RPM of 2000 or higher, at least for most of the time. As far as shifting between forward and reverse at high RPMs it should be fine. You are clutching it right? The shuttle on these tractors are not synchronized so they are required to be clutched between forward and reverse. Shifting on the main gear selector on the other hand is fully synchronized and once you get good at it it can be performed without having to clutch.

 

[brianb88]

Congrats on the new tractor. I've got 68 hours on mine and I very happy with it.

Mr. Bitz, I didn't realize that the main gear selector was fully synchronized. I've been clutching the whole time.

 

[DK35vince]

Synchronized helps align the gears so you can shift on the fly.
Never herd of it meaning not requiring the clutch to shift.
My tractor has a synchronized transmission (so I can shift on the go), but I still need to clutch to shift.

 

[pblanton]

Congratulations on the new tractor. I'm sure you know by now that you made the right decision. I have a 2015 Branson 3520h that I bought a little over a year ago and my wife and I both love it. She thought I was crazy buying a "big" tractor. She thought our Craftsman garden tractor was all we needed. Now, she LOVES the Branson and uses it as much as she uses the garden tractor. Different tools for different jobs.

My Branson has a 6' box blade, the bucket that came with the FEL and a set of pallet forks for the FEL. We also have the Ansung backhoe option that we bought with the tractor. I am purchasing new attachments as needed... one at a time. My next acquisition will be a post-hole auger.

My wife is always switching out the pallet forks for the bucket, and vice versa. You don't know how much you can use a good tractor until you have one.

Here's mine



--
Phillip

 

[1stDeuce]

Gentelmen, can some of you make comments on regen? I'm not keen on running 2000rpm all the time, so if any of you tend to drive them like an older tractor, how is that affecting frequency? Do you have to stop working for regens, or will it regen while you run it if you keep the RPM's up? I'm tossing back and forth between LS and Branson... The XR4145 goes a long time between regens, and you can work through them if you keep the RPM's up. Can't find much info on Branson... (Probably 4520R would be my choice...)

 

[Helitech]

No regen on a Branson, uses a DOC. I use mine as a normal tractor, no problems. Every couple of weeks I work mine harder, bushogging and such.

 

[1stDeuce]

Interesting... I found another thread finally, and they suggest that the DOC or DPF will be better off if I get a turbo tractor, since I'm at altitude... So a 4020R instead of a 4520R. The probably both make the same HP at 7500'...

 

[Mr Bitz]

Yes get the turbo at that high of elevation. Either the 4020r or the 5220r, 4020 3cyl. 5220 4 cyl.