Branson 3510 (2004) lost hydraulics (three point and front end loader)

[mike0000]

I would think so too ptsg, but the pump turns easily I’m at a loss.
Im attempting to add a picture, don’t be fooled by the teeth you see or what’s left of them, they are only at the rim, possibly 1/16” then it’s all rounded off.

 

[Russ5160]

This sounds a little off the wall, but,If the pump has lost prime, can’t you pressurize the oil sump with a couple pounds of air. That might force the oil into the pump

 

[ptsg]

Oh yeah, the splines are completely gone. If the pump rotates fine, then it may very well end up being something related to the relief valve as someone mentioned before.

Even if you lost all the fluid up to the sight glass area, there is still plenty of fluid left in the transmission for everything to work just fine. I think this just ended up being quite a coincidence or timing that it happened more or less at the same time the sight glass popped out.

I think we may need to diagnose how the loader valve is connected to the tractor, before you mount the new pump and run it.

This is the hydraulic diagram. They don't include the loader valve on this one but that "Out Chance" block is what feeds the loader and brings back the power beyond line to feed the 3 pt. Then, the Tank line would bee tee'd to another tank line available or just connected straight to the transmission housing.

 

[mike0000]

Hi Russ,

I’m way beyond a loss of pressure, the pump wasn’t turning at all, the female drive sprocket is destroyed. I added a picture to my last post if you zoom in its rounded out.
first picture shows a void where the drive sprocket would go, second is the male shaft and hyd. Pump. It’s a bit chewed up, but not as bad as I would have thought.

Mike

 

[mike0000]

Pump has some resistance, but I can turn it with my thumb and index finger.
ptsg, I agree more testing is needed before starting the tractor. I agree I don’t think I lost enough fluid to stop the hyd system from working, in fact it didn‘t go out until after the sight glass was back in and fluid was topped off. I’ll study the diagram and try to figure out how I go furthe.

Mike

 

[ptsg]

After looking at the pictures, I realized why the pump was giving you an hard time to come out. Basically the male splines weren't aligning with the remaining of the female splines and there would be no way to come out until the splines were aligned again.

 

[mike0000]

Yes ptsg that was the conclusion I came to also.

I think, i Will attempt To use the old pump and a drill to test for a blockage/restriction.

Mike

 

[mike0000]

My chuck on my drill isn’t large enough to try to drive the hyd pump, (spitballing on how to test the system for a blockage) I would need to come up with some sort of adapter to mate them for testing.
I have a large air compressor, would it make any sense to come up with an adapter and pressurize the hyd system for testing?

Mike

 

[ptsg]

The air compressor would make sure you had a free flow from the pump through all the valves and back to the tank, which is actually what we want with an open center system.

It won't be able to do much more at only 120 PSI, compared to somewhere around 2500 PSI that the tractor hydraulic system run, so the compressed air won't be able to pushing through the relief valves.

It's still a good test to do, for sure. Just applying pressure on the pressure hose that was connected to the pump.

 

[mike0000]

(Picture of hyd pump)

Did some thinking, remounted the Power steering pump (I want to seal the system before attempting to test for restriction/problem). Then remounted The hyd. Pump which I discovered can actually be rotated 90degrees, top and bottom of pump both have 4 threaded holes for connecting suction/pressure lines. The top aluminum 90 is held by only 3 bolts but luckily pump has 4 holes. So, I have the pump rotated 90 degrees from original location, w/shaft to side of tractor.
I also found that a 5/8” socket mates perfectly to the drive spline of the hyd. Pump.
Hyd. Pump runs counter clockwise.
My thinking is to cut up a 3/8” socket extension and come up with a connection for my 1/2” drive drill.
My drill is a heavy duty one that I mix drywall mud and thin set mortar with for remodeling. I’m not sure of the speed, is pretty slow so this could cause an issue.

Mike