Brake overhaul

[Gary Sweat]

Has anyone ever removed the brake drum housing from the transmission case? I removed the 4 bolts but it only move out about a 1/4" and then the shaft binds up and won't come out any farther.

I can't tell from the diagrams that there is anything other than the 4 bolts holding it in place.

 

[winston1]

I'm not sure but I think the differential lock shift fork may go through that housing. Try moving the differential lock foot pedal and move the brake housing at the same time and see if you can feel them meeting. #85 in the attached meshes with #60. May not be what is holding it. Just looks like it could be. Yanmar Tractor Parts: TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL

 

[Gary Sweat]

I'm not sure but I think the differential lock shift fork may go through that housing. Try moving the differential lock foot pedal and move the brake housing at the same time and see if you can feel them meeting. #85 in the attached meshes with #60. May not be what is holding it. Just looks like it could be. Yanmar Tractor Parts: TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL

I'll give that a try. I was hoping someone had done this before as I didn't want to have to pull the 3pt housing off just to see what might be holding it. The parts are coming in tomorrow and I wanted to get it all back together this week but I'm stuck trying to get the housing off so I can replace the bearings and seals.

Both brakes filled up with transmission oil when I over filled it so I thought I might as well just replace everything at one time and be done with it. Turns out to not be so simple again.

 

[careyo63]

http://www.fredricksequipment.com/Portals/0/catalog/rear axle and brakes.pdf

Looks to be a Snap Ring on this Brake Diagram.

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

http://www.fredricksequipment.com/Portals/0/catalog/rear axle and brakes.pdf

Looks to be a Snap Ring on this Brake Diagram.

Carey

Thanks for the pdf Carey. My setup is the one at the bottom of page 143. Looks like the whole housing is supposed to slide out but it's not. May be getting stuck on the splines in the gear. Looks like I'm going to have to take the 3pt off to see where it's binding. I hope I can get to that snap ring from inside.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Took the 3pt housing off and the problem became clear. The entire PTO and rear axle has to come out before I can remove the brake drum housing. The PTO assembly has to come out to get to the axle drive gear snap ring. The main axle drive gear (big one) sits half way inside the brake housing.

Not what I was hoping for and not very clear in the service manual.

 

[clemsonfor]

lppks very clean in there the fluid must have good cleaning properties.

 

[Gary Sweat]

lppks very clean in there the fluid must have good cleaning properties.

I've just run the standard TSC 303 oil. I change it every year in the spring right before I start using it again for the summer. The poor thing looks rough on the outside but so far everything I've looked at inside is in good shape.

This brake job is turning into an all out disassembly effort on the rear end. All I wanted to do was replace a bearing and a seal. Somehow the service manual didn't think it was important enough to include the steps. Oh well, at least I've found a few things that need attention. (a frozen axle hub on the axle and the 3pt lever bushings are dry).

I do like how the entire PTO unit comes out as one piece and exposes the entire differential. If I'd know that, I wouldn't have taken the 3pt off.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Success! Finally got the brake housing out (and most of the differential too). Found the cause of the oil leak. The seal collar was slowly corroding until if finally got to the seal surface and cut the seal. It wasn't leaking until I overfilled the tranny and then I guess it couldn't handle being submerged in the oil and started acting like a pump when the shaft was turning.

The little black line on the old collar is part of the seal surface ground away. Now I just got to get the old bearing out and the new seals and o-rings installed and hope I can remember where all of the parts go back.

Oh yea, still got to deal with the stuck axle hub too:confused2:

 

[careyo63]

My Hub was on ther pretty tight. The Bad seal looked to be Orig. My El Cheapo HF 1/4" Dr. wouldn't budge the Hub. I was able to rent a 3/4" Dr. gear puller from Orielly's auto parts and used my 1/2" Impact with a reducer. Popped right of. Worse case you may have to heat it up. If you had to pull the Axel shouldn't be much to it.

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

My Hub was on ther pretty tight. The Bad seal looked to be Orig. My El Cheapo HF 1/4" Dr. wouldn't budge the Hub. I was able to rent a 3/4" Dr. gear puller from Orielly's auto parts and used my 1/2" Impact with a reducer. Popped right of. Worse case you may have to heat it up. If you had to pull the Axel shouldn't be much to it.

Carey

This one seems to be stuck on the splines. Probably from rust. I'm going to try to rig something up with the 12 ton press and see if it will break it loose. If not, the torch is next More parts to order:laughing:

 

[normde2001]

Seems like you are going to a lot of trouble to replace a bearing that is probably not bad. Never read of anyone actually doing this job before.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Seems like you are going to a lot of trouble to replace a bearing that is probably not bad. Never read of anyone actually doing this job before.

The bearing wasn't bad. It's just a standard practice I do when I tear something down that is this old. Replace the parts that could be worn. This bearing is sealed and the inner bearing is open to the oil. I did notice a small amount of what looked like milky oil seep out of the bearing so some oil from the tranny must work it's way inside past the seals.

 

[normde2001]

To each his own. Guys replace that seal all the time just by pulling the brake drum; however, I would have just drained it, cleaned up and fixed the brakes, good for another 30 years.

 

[clemsonfor]

i THINK MOST OF US KNEW THE 3 PT WAS ONE UNIT. (SORRY FOR CAPS, JUST NOTICED) I was about to say something but thought that is what you meant, i thought you may have been talking about the top but i just did not say anything, sorry.

And my service manual even says that, maybe mine is better than yours? Prolly not.

 

[Gary Sweat]

i THINK MOST OF US KNEW THE 3 PT WAS ONE UNIT. (SORRY FOR CAPS, JUST NOTICED) I was about to say something but thought that is what you meant, i thought you may have been talking about the top but i just did not say anything, sorry.

And my service manual even says that, maybe mine is better than yours? Prolly not.

I was referring to the PTO assembly coming out as a unit. Nothing to have to take apart to get it out.

 

[Gary Sweat]

To each his own. Guys replace that seal all the time just by pulling the brake drum; however, I would have just drained it, cleaned up and fixed the brakes, good for another 30 years.

There are 3 seals in the brake housing assembly. The one you are talking about and the two other O-rings. Now that I know how it comes apart and goes back together it's no big deal. It was just a little confusing when the service manual didn't really cover the entire job. I'm just not a fan of waiting till something breaks before I fix it. If I can do a little preventive maintenance then I will and the parts are cheap. I'm also replacing the axle seals and bearings while it's apart. They probably don't need it either but no harm in replacing them.

 

[careyo63]

Make sure you check the Seal Collar. Since you have the Axel out I would replace them. When I had to replace one of my Axel Seals the Collar wasn't in bad shape but did have a few pits in it. It still does not leak but will show a Small oil drip on the tire when it sits. I wasn't in any physical shape to be doing repairs on it at the time and it was only one Axel so if it did leak I would of done the same as you and pulled it all down.

By the way since the 1900 is the about same as the 2000 I'm surprised nobody told you of the (Wet brake Setup) I believe Winston 1 awhile back on Hoye Tech Support stated he has them. and few of Fredricks 2000's has them also...

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

Make sure you check the Seal Collar. Since you have the Axel out I would replace them. When I had to replace one of my Axel Seals the Collar wasn't in bad shape but did have a few pits in it. It still does not leak but will show a Small oil drip on the tire when it sits. I wasn't in any physical shape to be doing repairs on it at the time and it was only one Axel so if it did leak I would of done the same as you and pulled it all down.

By the way since the 1900 is the about same as the 2000 I'm surprised nobody told you of the (Wet brake Setup) I believe Winston 1 awhile back on Hoye Tech Support stated he has them. and few of Fredricks 2000's has them also...

Carey

Thanks for the tip on the axle seal collar. If it's as pitted as the one on the brake it will need replacing. I'm in the process of putting the right brake assembly back together but will not get the axle, PTO cover and 3pt gaskets till Friday. Hopefully that will give me enough time to do the left side.

The 1900 has dry brakes. I've found this model is a cross between different models. Some parts from the 1600 fit and some from the 2000 fit. Engine wise, several models seem the same. I'm starting to think it was what I call a "fill in" model. Built from whatever they had on hand till the next model came out. The parts manual is for the 1600 and 1900 with very few differences.

 

[clemsonfor]

I was referring to the PTO assembly coming out as a unit. Nothing to have to take apart to get it out.

Yep thats what i was referring to. Im sorry i have trouble putting into words what my thoughts are.