Brake master cylinder 1 or 2?

[Canuck10]

I have a 5211 that the left brake pedal goes right to the floor. There is no brake fluid leaking and the reservoir is still full, so I am assuming the master cylinder is probably at fault.
Does this unit have separate master cylinders for the left and right brake pedals?

Appreciate some insight.

 

[Agvg]

Yes it has, and a pressure equalizer on the side of the gear box

 

[Canuck10]

Yes it has, and a pressure equalizer on the side of the gear box

Thank you Agvg.
I am not able to see the master cyl so assume it must be under the housing that supports the steering/throttle, is this correct? If so does all the electrical have to be removed to get that housing off?

Appreciate your advise.

 

[Bayfisher]

2 masters, three slaves, 1 reservoir, a leak somewhere and loose all fluid u loose all brakes and clutch, btw the brake master cylinders can been seen if u remove
the dust shield at the forward console, easier to see it with hood up.

 

[Bayfisher]

i have been improving mine through the time i have owned it, here u can see i separated the reservoirs for the brake and clutch cyls.

 

[Canuck10]

2 masters, three slaves, 1 reservoir, a leak somewhere and loose all fluid u loose all brakes and clutch, btw the brake master cylinders can been seen if u remove
the dust shield at the forward console, easier to see it with hood up.

Thanks Bayfisher, I haven't lost any brake fluid and don't see any movement at the slave, so I have assumed the problem to be the master on my left brake pedal. It goes to the floor without any resistance.
I see the cab I have to remove to get at the master and was wondering if the removal of the cab might be quite involved by having to remove the rest of the gear behind the cab like the throttle linkage and electrical stuff.
I guess the best way to find out is to tear into it.

Regards

 

[Canuck10]

i have been improving mine through the time i have owned it, here u can see i separated the reservoirs for the brake and clutch cyls.

Good idea to help determine where the source of a problem might be coming from. Nice little reservoirs you have there.

 

[Bayfisher]

open hood, from hood area look towards the rear u will see a plastic panel hiding the master cylinders, remove that panel and u can see the rear of the cylinders,
and gain access to the banjo fittings to the masters, if u dont have a service and repair manual then get one, it helps greatly.

these tractors are very simple to service and repair even though they are cech.

 

[Canuck10]

open hood, from hood area look towards the rear u will see a plastic panel hiding the master cylinders, remove that panel and u can see the rear of the cylinders,
and gain access to the banjo fittings to the masters, if u dont have a service and repair manual then get one, it helps greatly.

these tractors are very simple to service and repair even though they are cech.

Thanks again Mike, oddly enough I do have a factory service manual however is is not very descript and doesn't have any pictures for the master.

The manual says to " Remove the cover in front of the dashboard (behind the engine)". With your info I assume this must mean the panel you are referring to. My panel is rivetted in place and there is very little space to drill them out. Even with that panel off it looks like it would still be real tight to get between the engine and the master to work.
I think I am still going to try and remove the cover that houses the electrical/masters to gain better access.

Thanks for the advise.

 

[Bayfisher]

the parts manual has the pics, u must have a fel mounted to ur 5211, here is a couple pic that may help.

 

[Canuck10]

the parts manual has the pics, u must have a fel mounted to ur 5211, here is a couple pic that may help.

Thanks Mike the pics are a big help. I see the cover I am in the process of removing is already off in your pics.

Appreciate the info.
Neil

 

[Bayfisher]

also drain and refill the steering box while its down.

 

[Canuck10]

Hi Mike, can you elaborate on draining the steering box for me, I am not sure what you mean. I am very proactive at preventative maintenance and look for any oppty to avoid issues and prevent wear and tear and this 5211 is new to me.

 

[Bayfisher]

dont have a pic of the drain and fill points, but do have a pic of the strg box, its an integral part of the upper trans housing, 90 weight hear oil is
whats needed, if it gets water in it often then the input shaft seal is leaking, old timers would fill it with grease using a grease gun [ band aid repair ],
i rebuilt mine and filled with 90w.

the crossover tubes in the box are NLA.

 

[Bayfisher]

the above pic is the right side, the drain and refill points is on the left side, the correct pic is below.