Box Scraper Box blades

[dg281]

Hello. I have a Kubota BX 1850 (18 hp) and am looking at box blades. I'm looking at getting a 5ft box blade. Approx weight is around 400lbs. Does anyone have experience with a 5 footer on a small tractor like this? Will it handle it? Thanks for any input.

 

[bcp]

It will probably do OK grading a driveway or clearing snow, but digging and getting the box full of dirt may be too much. (Based on my BX2360 with a 300# 4ft box blade)

Bruce

 

[/pine]

A lot of folks will say to get the heaviest BB that the tractor will handle...and I agree to an extent...but there's always an exception and when it comes to box blades the exception is experience and time...depending on the type of earth/gravel etc. being worked...a lighter bb can do the same thing as a heavier blade...it just takes longer and possibly more scarifier work...

Extra weight is most important when "cutting" (shortened top link)...

I have a 17 HP B series and I have a 5' Bush hog brand (CX60) box blade...I don't think it weighs 300#'s but I do add a length of rail steel that adds about 80#'s...I have loaded rears and have no problem pulling (or pushing) a full box of earth or gravel...

A bit more "input" than you might want to hear...but honestly if you really want to master a box blade (amaze yourself on a regular basis) hydraulic top and tilt is paramount...IMO...without T&T the learning curve for a box blade is as steep as they come...

For instance...watch an operator work a bb with T&T on anything but a perfectly flat surface...the operator will constantly make minor adjustments to the blade...now imagine stopping the tractor, climbing off the tractor make an adjustment climb back on the tractor and continue a few yards repeat...IMO the frustration of trying to use a bb without T&T is the main reason you will often hear dislike for them...

Mastering a box blade is like being able to catch a fly with chop sticks...once achieved you can do anything...!

Good Luck...

 

[nybirdman]

I would think a 5ft.box blade would be too much for a BX.Four foot would probably be fine.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I used a Woods HB 60 on my 28 HP 3300# New Holland 1720. That blade was around 540# and with a floating blade would work my tractor pretty good. With ag tires and the front axle engaged it did fine. Your B would struggle with that type of blade. I would think a light 5 footer with stationary blade would be OK but if loaded your B will tend to spin. A 4 footer IMHO is a better option.

 

[jeff9366]

Rather than pay for repeat weight, I suggest you use your FEL bucket as basis for grading/moving dirt.

You will find a Ratchet Rake AT LEAST as effective on your BX:

6/09/2016

I own both a Ratchet Rake and a Rollover Box Blade.

This post concerns Ratchet Rakes Vs. light Box Blades, such as the 60" Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds/69 pounds per foot.

I searched for the weight of kubota L3301 bucket but could not find a number. I presume L3301 bucket weighs approximately 240 pounds, extrapolating from other kubota specs. 68" Ratchet Rake weighs 88 pounds. Adding 240 + 88 = 328 pounds, pretty close to 346 pounds of BB1260 Box Blade.

In addition, the (operator controlled) weight of the FEL frame bears on the Ratchet Rake. ((Likewise, weight of the Three Point Hitch bears on mounted Box Blade.)) FEL frames weigh much more than ( 3X? 4X?) Three Point Hitch components. So, including some FEL weight, I guesstimate that ground contact pressure on Ratchet Rake and BB1260 would be at least equal, perhaps greater pressure on the Ratchet Rake.

Further in Ratchet Rake's favor you have articulation of bucket/RR combination in two planes from the operator's station and 1-1/2" serrated teeth on the Ratchet Rake.

Box Blade can be raised and lowered hydraulically from the operator's station. Box Blade angle of attack is adjustable via the Three Point Hitch Top Link, but not from the operator's station. Standard Box Blade does not have rippers, standard is a smooth cutting edge.

Ratchet Rake is excellent tearing up sod with its serrated teeth, the initial operation in much grading. The Ratchet Rake will not pull as large a load as a Box Blade but it may pull 35% of capacity of BB1260 per pass, with faster cycles. Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently.

This is why I feel the Ratchet Rake is superior to light Box Blades for LIGHT grading.

This is a novel assessment of the Ratchet Rake. Subject to revision and modification.

When I have heavy grading to do, I mount my 60"/625 pound (125 pounds per foot) Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade on the tractor's Three Point Hitch AND the Ratchet Rake on my FEL bucket.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

The key metric for Box Blades is weight per unit of width.

The TBN consensus among actual Box Blade users is effectiveness commences at 100 pounds per foot of width. One hundred twenty-five pounds per foot of width is better. Industrial/construction Box Blades begin at 200 pounds per foot of width.

Not total weight, weight per unit of width. The most effective Box Blades are a slight amount wider than rear tires and as heavy as feasible. That is also your toughest, most reliable Box Blade.

 

[jeff9366]

A bit more "input" than you might want to hear...but honestly if you really want to master a box blade (amaze yourself on a regular basis) hydraulic top and tilt is paramount...IMO...without T&T the learning curve for a box blade is as steep as they come...

For instance...watch an operator work a bb with T&T on anything but a perfectly flat surface...the operator will constantly make minor adjustments to the blade...now imagine stopping the tractor, climbing off the tractor make an adjustment climb back on the tractor and continue a few yards repeat...IMO the frustration of trying to use a bb without T&T is the main reason you will often hear dislike for them...

I agree with /PINE, with a three caveats.

A Rollover Box Blade is easier to use and easier to master than a "standard" Box Blade. Unfortunately, Rollovers cost more than standard Box Blades as they are heavier. Rollovers were engineered before T&T became commercially available and probably (?) before subcompact tractors entered the market.

While NOT equal to T&T, and not inexpensive itself, a $249 HydrauLink Top Link shortens the learning curve for all Box Blades.

Moldboard Plows have a steeper learning curves than Box Blades. The more "bottoms", the more difficult to operate well.


VIDEO: HydrauLink Category 1 Cylinder - For 45 HP Tractors or Less, Model# HL-11 - YouTube

 

[jenkinsph]

I would recommend the 4' box blade for an 18 hp tractor. A 5' would be too much for it.

 

[davrow]

jeff9366, what were you lifting that tweaked your bucket lip like that at the left bucket hook?

 

[TripleR]

We have a BX2200, BX2660 and John Deere 1025R and have found the 4' box blade better than 5' for our uses on a SCUT.

 

[lamanated]

I use a 5 ft with my bx ,works well , My uses are driveways with no rock over 1 1/2" and dirt, .I welded a ft length of chain in a loop in each corner to allow it to be lifted.I like heavy but you need to lift it with the loader to set it in a trailer if you plan to move it around,so you might want a 4 ft for that consideration.I also welded a pointed high grade bolt to one ripper. so I can scrape ice in and the winter. and hook an edge and rip ice up in the spring if needed if it gets slippery.. that really worked

 

[EverythingAttachments]

The best match for a subcompact is a box blade made for a subcompact. The geometry is correct, so the tractor will be working the box blade, not the other way around.
We make our Land Shark Subcompact box blade in 48" and 54" widths. Either would be great on your tractor.
Travis

 

[arkydog]

i have a b3200 32hp and a 5 foot bb and it works my tractor pretty hard. get the four foot. i would suggest if you want the 5 foot bb, get a bigger tractor. think of this, how wide is you loader bucket.

 

[oosik]

I have a roll-over box blade - RO-072( 72" ) - on my Kubota M6040 and I can CERTAINLY overload it when pulling a deep cut(all four wheels start digging). I also have the hydraulic top link - which has proven invaluable. I'm almost constantly "tweaking" the hyd top link when cutting with the ROBB. Without a hydraulic top link you are very likely to become extremely frustrated with the performance of any box blade.

Constantly getting on/off the tractor to adjust a manual top link will soon ruin your seat time fun using a box blade. With the hydraulic top link I'm able to continue with a much deeper cut and not loose total traction - IE, when the going gets really tough, I can lengthen the top link, ease off on the deep cut and continue to maintain traction - - all from the drivers seat and while still in motion.

I would not go any bigger than a 5' box blade. And, at that, you will probably find that in really dense soils you will be making shallower cuts just to maintain forward motion.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a good illustration of a subcompact vs a compact box blade. Both boxes are 54", but the subcompact looks and feels more at home on the BX.
The EA Xtreme Duty Compact is yellow. The Land Shark Subcompact box blade is orange.
Travis

 

[jeff9366]

jeff9366, what were you lifting that tweaked your bucket lip like that at the left bucket hook?

Photo #3. What an eye! That was my last tractor, a Kubota B3300SU. Very peculiar circumstance I could never willfully duplicate. I was pulling a 6" fallen, green Water Oak out of the high crotch of another tree. It rotated and fell in an odd way that applied great leverage to the hook. My current tractor, approximately same size but much heavier L3560, has one of Kubota's optional Heavy-Duty, Round-Back buckets, which I doubt I will ever bend.

Its after instances like this you realize the utility and SAFETY value of TRACTOR WEIGHT.

Interesting that the Ken's Bolt On Chain Grab Hood was unaffected, though taking primary force. The bucket lip bent, grab hook unaffected, no movement in grab hook mount.

 

[DieselBound]

4', definitely. I've got a 5' Modern Ag (perhaps one of the strongest 5-footers that are made) on my B7800 and it'll stop my B7800 pretty hard if I start cutting too deep: I can pull it full, however, but I've got to be in 4wd and throttled up. It'll be quite the contrast when my NX5510 comes and I hook that 5-footer up to it! (not a long-term setup!) In general stay around the width of the tractor and you should be good: learning to operate a box blade can take a while; if you can run a hydraulic top link then life will be LOTS better (you'll be able to adjust the cut/angle on the fly rather than jumping off and tweaking the top link manually).

I've got a tooth bar on my B7800's bucket. I can dig up a bunch of dirt in reverse (bucket down and curled) and then run forward and drop the box blade and scoop (or turn around and push that dirt if I'm leveling right there).

 

[SteelonSteel]

i have a b3200 32hp and a 5 foot bb and it works my tractor pretty hard. get the four foot. i would suggest if you want the 5 foot bb, get a bigger tractor. think of this, how wide is you loader bucket.

I have the same tractor and agree. I have a Woods BSS60 (5') and with the box full it is all my tractor wants. When I go up hill I can't pull a full box. I am a manual top link person for now. I would like the hydraulic some day and definitely know it would be a significant improvement in use.

Go with a 4' for your BX.

 

[Botaskinner]

Agreed with the 4' BB for your use. My B2320 with 4' LP pulls a full load uphill with no problem, but I can't say it would do a well with the 5', probably would run out of traction first.