oosik
Epic Contributor
Hi Mark. That question is like asking - - How high is UP???
I have a Kubota M6040 and with my grapple and back blade on board the entire unit is 10,000 pounds. The back blade is 96 inches and weighs 1000 pounds. The tractor is rated - 62hp.
Speaking now - just of the back blade. There are times when I do not need the 1K weight. Clearing ice/snow off my mile long gravel driveway. There are times when I do need added weight. I have a 400 pound concrete "cube" that rests on the blade and adds that weight. This is only used if I need to do work on the driveway in the late summer. My driveway becomes concrete-hard in the late summer.
Kubota recommends 84 inch - max width for my tractor. My blade is a foot wider.
The one thing you must understand. Any back blade adds significant leverage to your rear arms, levers & controls. You can and will cause damage if you attempt to grade too deep and hook an immovable object - bedrock.
This will happen sooner with a wider/heavier blade.
When I'm using the back blade - I never grade virgin soil much deeper than two inches - on each pass. I have a whole lot of bedrock on the property.
My first back blade was simply too light. 570 pounds and six feet wide. It did snow just fine. Just not my rock hard summer driveway. Adding enough weight to this blade would have - sooner/later - damaged the frame of the blade.
So - post some telling pics of your current back blade and see what the members think. If the current back blade works for you - I would be happy. Getting too wide and heavy can easily overload the system.
I have a Kubota M6040 and with my grapple and back blade on board the entire unit is 10,000 pounds. The back blade is 96 inches and weighs 1000 pounds. The tractor is rated - 62hp.
Speaking now - just of the back blade. There are times when I do not need the 1K weight. Clearing ice/snow off my mile long gravel driveway. There are times when I do need added weight. I have a 400 pound concrete "cube" that rests on the blade and adds that weight. This is only used if I need to do work on the driveway in the late summer. My driveway becomes concrete-hard in the late summer.
Kubota recommends 84 inch - max width for my tractor. My blade is a foot wider.
The one thing you must understand. Any back blade adds significant leverage to your rear arms, levers & controls. You can and will cause damage if you attempt to grade too deep and hook an immovable object - bedrock.
This will happen sooner with a wider/heavier blade.
When I'm using the back blade - I never grade virgin soil much deeper than two inches - on each pass. I have a whole lot of bedrock on the property.
My first back blade was simply too light. 570 pounds and six feet wide. It did snow just fine. Just not my rock hard summer driveway. Adding enough weight to this blade would have - sooner/later - damaged the frame of the blade.
So - post some telling pics of your current back blade and see what the members think. If the current back blade works for you - I would be happy. Getting too wide and heavy can easily overload the system.
Mr. Orange
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2023
- Messages
- 332
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
Wasn’t the question about a box blade?
RjCorazza
Elite Member
Under the right conditions even a small box blade will anchor a large tractor.
For the op, I would imagine a 6' box blade would be a good fit, or whatever width covers the rear tire footprint.
For the op, I would imagine a 6' box blade would be a good fit, or whatever width covers the rear tire footprint.
oosik
Epic Contributor
I think the only difference - Mr Orange - the box blade will tend to contain whatever it digs up. Times are that I know I'm either scraping too deep or have hooked onto something.
The tractor - she no move - and all four wheels are digging holes.
And yes - a relatively small blade - box or open - can definitely anchor a rather large tractor. This is where operator skill comes into play.
The tractor - she no move - and all four wheels are digging holes.
And yes - a relatively small blade - box or open - can definitely anchor a rather large tractor. This is where operator skill comes into play.
scootr
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2022
- Messages
- 8,691
- Location
- Temecula California
- Tractor
- Kubota MX5200 HST, 773 Bobcat, Cat forklift
50 hp will work a 6 ft box well. It likely matches your tractors width and pulling capacity when cutting or full.
Mr. Orange
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2023
- Messages
- 332
- Tractor
- Kubota B7500
Well ooosik i have a back blade and a box blade, and they’re very different.
TMGT
Elite Member
I have a 78" 1200lb box blade for my 32hp L3240, it pulls it no problem with loaded tires and a full box of damp clay.
Max size will be determined by tractor weight and what your intended uses are.
Heavy tractor (7-8k)and just re-grading a gravel road on fairly level ground? Could probably get by with a 84-96".
A lighter tractor and/or ripping and pulling a full box of heavy clay? Might want to go just enough to cover your tractors width.
Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app
Max size will be determined by tractor weight and what your intended uses are.
Heavy tractor (7-8k)and just re-grading a gravel road on fairly level ground? Could probably get by with a 84-96".
A lighter tractor and/or ripping and pulling a full box of heavy clay? Might want to go just enough to cover your tractors width.
Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app
repete
Veteran Member
I believe you are going to find there is no real answer to your question. The reason is because every use is going to be different. A 4' box that hits a solid rock is going to be every bit as impactful on the tractor as an 8' box hitting the same rock.
I usually use the traction and engine temperature as an indicator. If I can pull it without spinning the tires I figure I am OK. If I can pull it and not get the engine hot, I figure I am OK.
On my L2550DT I use my rotary cutter in the 540 RPM PTO speed if I am cutting brush and heavy grass. If I am topping grass I run in the 1000 RPM position. I can run the engine at a lower RPM while topping as I do not need the HP.
It takes time to get to know your tractor but once you do you will be able to "feel" what is right or wrong when using it.
I usually use the traction and engine temperature as an indicator. If I can pull it without spinning the tires I figure I am OK. If I can pull it and not get the engine hot, I figure I am OK.
On my L2550DT I use my rotary cutter in the 540 RPM PTO speed if I am cutting brush and heavy grass. If I am topping grass I run in the 1000 RPM position. I can run the engine at a lower RPM while topping as I do not need the HP.
It takes time to get to know your tractor but once you do you will be able to "feel" what is right or wrong when using it.
