Box Blade Variations.

[BufordBoone]

I'm researching box blades. I want to "Buy once, Cry once".

I see what I'll call standard box blades and "rollover" box blades and "floating gate" box blades and "Lockable floating gate" box blades.

If anyone has a good explanation of the differences and recommendation as to what would be the best general purpose design, I'd appreciate the input.

I have a Kubota L5740 and a JD 2355. I plan to replace the JD in a couple of years with a ~100 hp tractor and would like to find a box blade that could be used with the future tractor as well as the current ones.

Thanks, in advance.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I bought a frontier 4296H for my 100 hp Deere. It's pretty much the cats meow for me.

Brett

 

[MtnViewRanch]

In reality, these are your choices.

http://www.woodsequipment.com/ceLandscapeEquip.aspx

Plan on spending in the $4000 range. To work on both tractors, probably in the 88"-92" range. Any of these are actually to big for your L5740.

A tail gate allows you to dig deeper faster, not sure if you really want that or not. Don't think that they are even available for a 100hp machine anyway.

Forget about a roll over, to light duty for a 100hp machine. Maybe when Gannon built them, but they discontinued them 10 years ago.

 

[Catman8]

Here is a question that might help the OP and also answer my question, I have a standard box blade with five ripper shanks, is there anyway to rip dirt without the box blade filling up with dirt. I have the box blade tilted forward and the shanks in the deepest position and as the dirt gets ripped the clods raise up and fill the box up instead of going under the blade. Do different types of box blades stop this from happening, or do you need to just buy a separate attachment only for ripping.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here is a question that might help the OP and also answer my question, I have a standard box blade with five ripper shanks, is there anyway to rip dirt without the box blade filling up with dirt. I have the box blade tilted forward and the shanks in the deepest position and as the dirt gets ripped the clods raise up and fill the box up instead of going under the blade. Do different types of box blades stop this from happening, or do you need to just buy a separate attachment only for ripping.

Most of the hydraulic actuated rippers go down flush with the cutting edges, so there is no need to be tilting the box to get the rippers to engage.

As far as your box, set the rippers to be down below the cutting edge and use your position control to hold the box up so that only the rippers engage, not the cutting edge. If your clods are big enough and not break up, then I guess you have a problem. The Roll Over Boxes do not have this problem at all.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I purchased a Frontier BB4284H as it was quick hitch compatible, a real selling point for me. One thing I really like about these big, heavy-duty-style blades is that when you lift them up, all the material falls out.

Nice things are the hydraulic function on the scarifier bar to lift the scarifiers out of the way.

The folding tailgate allows the forward blade a more aggressive cut if you have the power and traction to pull the blade through. The folding tailgate also allows the blade to finish grade when it is the primary way of contacting the ground when moving forward, as well as a way to cut high points level when rolling backward. You'll want a hydraulic top link to quickly be able to adjust your box blade's angle of attack. A hydraulic side link is of very limited use, and so you can skip that if you wish. I demonstrate all of the uses of leveling on a video at this link. Basically, running backward with the rear blade cutting is the primary way of creating a level surface whereas running forward with the rear blade smoothing, is the way to smooth and finish grade material. The leading front blade is for cutting and filling potholes and rough grading.

A weakness of this Frontier is that the scarifiers bend too easily as they are cut from mild steel. I see on eBay that a vender is selling forged scarifiers at a reasonable rate and so I may upgrade.

I have a video review of my Frontier BB4284H which will give you an idea for all the commercial box scraper with hydraulic scarifiers and floating rear blades.

 

[Dadnatron]

Eric...

Be careful of the scarifiers on eBay. I purchased 8 for my BB and they are brittle. At this point, I've broken 3. I didn't see that this vendor said they were forged however. These look to be Cast steel from the looks of them.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric...

Be careful of the scarifiers on eBay. I purchased 8 for my BB and they are brittle. At this point, I've broken 3. I didn't see that this vendor said they were forged however. These look to be Cast steel from the looks of them.

Oh really? For clarification, I'm thinking about this eBay vender who also sells these in sets.

1 - Gannon Scraper Box Shank w Scarifier Tooth & Clip - H92 , 875 , K136 | eBay

 

[Catman8]

Most of the hydraulic actuated rippers go down flush with the cutting edges, so there is no need to be tilting the box to get the rippers to engage.

As far as your box, set the rippers to be down below the cutting edge and use your position control to hold the box up so that only the rippers engage, not the cutting edge. If your clods are big enough and not break up, then I guess you have a problem. The Roll Over Boxes do not have this problem at all.

So that is another advantage of a rollover box blade, if you just want to rip the ground, the rollover design has nothing behind the rippers to catch the large clods. Thanks Brian.

 

[Dadnatron]

Oh really? For clarification, I'm thinking about this eBay vender who also sells these in sets.

1 - Gannon Scraper Box Shank w Scarifier Tooth & Clip - H92 , 875 , K136 | eBay

That link didn't work.

Also, if you purchase them, make sure that the notches are spaced appropriately. I know mine were not and I had to notch them. This could have weakened them somewhat, I recognize this, but I've had 3 snap. I've thought about just finding someone with a CNC machine, and having them cut out some heavy ones for me. Also, make sure you get the length you need. I know they have a longer set which might put the teeth too far below your blade.

This is a pic of the second 'set' I purchased. I have had a horrible time finding shanks for my Gannon 4X2.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Eric, maybe you should say, "I have found very little use for my hydraulic side link" . People that grade a lot in varying conditions use their hydraulic side links all the time. I personally would not be without one, in fact I put my hydraulic side link on before my hydraulic top link as seen in the 1st picture.

Granted a std type box blade would require a hydraulic top link to be useful before a hydraulic side link.

I happen to have ROBBs for both of my utility tractors and don't really need a hydraulic top link when using them.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I purchased a Frontier BB4284H as it was quick hitch compatible, a real selling point for me. One thing I really like about these big, heavy-duty-style blades is that when you lift them up, all the material falls out.

Nice things are the hydraulic function on the scarifier bar to lift the scarifiers out of the way.

The folding tailgate allows the forward blade a more aggressive cut if you have the power and traction to pull the blade through. The folding tailgate also allows the blade to finish grade when it is the primary way of contacting the ground when moving forward, as well as a way to cut high points level when rolling backward. You'll want a hydraulic top link to quickly be able to adjust your box blade's angle of attack. A hydraulic side link is of very limited use, and so you can skip that if you wish. I demonstrate all of the uses of leveling on a video at this link. Basically, running backward with the rear blade cutting is the primary way of creating a level surface whereas running forward with the rear blade smoothing, is the way to smooth and finish grade material. The leading front blade is for cutting and filling potholes and rough grading.

A weakness of this Frontier is that the scarifiers bend too easily as they are cut from mild steel. I see on eBay that a vender is selling forged scarifiers at a reasonable rate and so I may upgrade.

I have a video review of my Frontier BB4284H which will give you an idea for all the commercial box scraper with hydraulic scarifiers and floating rear blades.

Within literally 10' I bend one to the point of tearing it. I'm considering welding a tab on the top of each hole. Having custom full width scarfier cut and use those. I don't need them to be adjustable. Just want something that won't keep breaking

Brett

 

[bcp]

You guys bending scarifiers just have too much tractor. Trade for a smaller one.

Bruce

 

[MinnesotaEric]

That link didn't work.

Also, if you purchase them, make sure that the notches are spaced appropriately. I know mine were not and I had to notch them. This could have weakened them somewhat, I recognize this, but I've had 3 snap. I've thought about just finding someone with a CNC machine, and having them cut out some heavy ones for me. Also, make sure you get the length you need. I know they have a longer set which might put the teeth too far below your blade.

This is a pic of the second 'set' I purchased. I have had a horrible time finding shanks for my Gannon 4X2.

View attachment 506434

I've got a guy who could cut them out of a 100 series 3/4" steel plate after hours at his work (he is a welder fabricator), and I could find out what that would cost and then we do a group buy to distribute costs.

 

[TripleR]

I have a setup very similar to Eric's, a Kubota L5740HSTC with Land Pride HR3584 with TnT. I also use the same scraper on our M8540HDC and while it will anchor the 8540 if used aggressively, if I could afford it, I'd have a heavy duty Woods of 7' or more. We have a 10' drag scraper that works well with it, but a good heavy box scraper would work better. No way I would try it on a heavier 100HP tractor.

I've been luck not to bend anything, but I'm sure it's going to happen.

 

[BufordBoone]

Great info, as usual.

Looks like I might have to either consider a smaller future tractor or not plan to share implements.

This gets me on a pretty good start.

Thanks, again.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I recently bought a well used 4-foot Gannon "Earthcavator" rollover box blade for my BX2660, and it's the slickest thing since the invention of lubricated condoms. I don't use my Land Pride BB1548 since I got the Gannon.

So I now have the 4' Gannon Earthcavator for the BX, and the 6' Gannon with hydraulic rippers for the DK50SE. Love both of them.

 

[Dadnatron]

I would be interested in that. I'd need 10. 8 + 2 spare

 

[Dadnatron]

Eric,

I would be interested in looking into that. I'd need 10. 8 + 2 spare

 

[Turbys_1700]

Here is a really nice ROBB listed on Craigslist for sale locally. Not inexpensive but a nice blade.

Woods SR3 7' box blade