Box blade decisions

[RandyinTN]

Have a local company who builds a decent box blade at a good price. My choices are narrowed down to a 72 inch wide model that weighs 357 lbs for $599:
Titan 3 Series

Or a 530 pound version for $675:
Titan 3 Series

It will be used to keep my almost 600 foot gravel driveway in shape and to occasionally level some soil in places.

For $76 it seems like a no brainer to go with the HD version. Thoughts?

 

[spitter]

In box blade world more weight more better.:drink:

 

[alflen52]

if your tractor can handle the extra weight,go heavier.

 

[oosik]

Definitely - with ground engagement implements - weight is your friend.

My Bush Hog RO720 ROBB(roll over box blade) - - 710 pounds

My Land Pride GS2584 LPGS(land plane grading scraper) - - 796 pounds

My Rhino 950- 96" - rear blade - - 1100 pounds

I have a mile long gravel driveway that turns to concrete after the spring rains and is probably just as difficult to penetrate as concrete. That is the reason for the heavy duty rear blade - summer driveway maintenance.

In all honesty - I use my rear blade for driveway maintenance about 99.9% of the time. I've used the LPGS a couple times but all it does is stir thing up. I use the LPGS to create new trails out thru the sage brush and field grass. I will use the ROBB to scarify potholes and move material to repair the pothole.

I use the rear blade for winter snow plowing - summer grading - ditch maintenance - crowning.

The rear blade takes a while to gain proficiency but with my hydraulic top link - its sure a lot easier/faster to learn.

The LPGS has an almost zero learning curve - just hook it up and go

The ROBB has a learning curve similar to the rear blade.

Do not overpower your tractor - I DO recommend getting as heavy as you pocket book and tractor can handle.

I previously had a Land Pride RB3596 rear blade @ 565 pounds. It was a TRUE JOKE for summer driveway maintenance - just WAY TOO light. If I wanted entertainment - drag it down the driveway in the early evening and watch the sparks fly off the blade.

 

[RandyinTN]

Tractor is a 45 hp 4wd with rear tires filled. Is it capable of handling the 530 pounds?

 

[oosik]

Randy - I assume you don't have an Op manual or yours does not have a "recommended implement" page.

Whatever - its usually not the weight that is the limiting factor - its most likely the width.

My Op manual says: for rear blades - paraphrase here - do not exceed 72" in width nor 1200 pounds in weight. Well - give me a break - to start with - I could not plow snow on my driveway with a 72" rear blade - mine is 96" and still will not offset and completely cover rear tire width plus a couple feet offset the rear tires. I offset my rear blade 24" out beyond the rear tire on one side. Gives me a little extra leeway when plowing the driveway. I got a couple areas where there is a ten foot dropoff at the very edge of the driveway.

As far as weight - the Rhino 950 is one of the heavier factory built blades. To get a 72" blade to weigh 1200 pounds - I would have to go to the local welding shop and have something custom made.

So after all my BS - - yes, your tractor will easily handle a 530 pound rear blade. And 72" should be just fine also.

However - and he throws in the "kicker" - - if you will be plowing snow with that 72" rear blade - remember when you angle it - you will loose substantial plowing width. A 72" blade held at a 45 degree angle will plow a 48" path. That same blade held at a 35 degree angle will plow a 55" path.

 

[RandyinTN]

Thanks for the advice. This implement will never mess with snow. Am trying to learn as I go here as I still have not picked up the tractor yet. That will happen before the end of Oct. The company selling the box blade is 3 hours away but we have reason to be in the are so thought I might as well pick one up while in the area. The owners manual just gives a max width recommendation of 84 inches for a box blade.

 

[/pine]

Just a heads up...Trying to learn how to satisfactorily use a box blade without the use of hydraulic top and tilt can be extremely difficult, time consuming, and frustrating...for many it is the most difficult grading attachment to learn to use efficiently...

If the blade will not be used for creating or restoring crowns, cutting ditches etc. a tilt cylinder is not as paramount as a hydraulic top link...

One exception to the above caveat is if the blade is going to primarily be used in a static position where no adjustments are required...

Good luck

 

[RandyinTN]

Just a heads up...Trying to learn how to satisfactorily use a box blade without the use of hydraulic top and tilt can be extremely difficult, time consuming, and frustrating...for many it is the most difficult grading attachment to learn to use efficiently...

If the blade will not be used for creating or restoring crowns, cutting ditches etc. a tilt cylinder is not as paramount as a hydraulic top link...

One exception to the above caveat is if the blade is going to primarily be used in a static position where no adjustments are required...

Good luck

My neighbor has been doing my driveway for me. He has a very old 2wd tractor with a old box blade that is not adjustable. A few passes and my road looks as good as new

 

[oosik]

Randy - listen to what /pine says - he is 100% correct. I finally got a hydraulic top link and it has made a world of difference.

Remember before you give up on trying to do perfect grading with that new tractor and box blade - consider a hydraulic top link.

You will be kicking yourself if you don't get it along with the box blade.

 

[/pine]

My neighbor has been doing my driveway for me. He has a very old 2wd tractor with a old box blade that is not adjustable. A few passes and my road looks as good as new

It's not the blade itself that is "adjustable"...it's the 3PH...any and all three point hitches are or can be made adjustable for both length of top link and level of side links etc...

 

[FTG-05]

Tractor is a 45 hp 4wd with rear tires filled. Is it capable of handling the 530 pounds?

Kubota L4330, a ~40 hp class tractor with +1150 lbs of LMC HD BB, railroad rail and 510 lb weight block:

530 lbs on a 45 hp tractor? Probably won't even notice it.

 

[RandyinTN]

Going on the advice of my dealer. He said there is no sense going to anything 吐ancier for simply grading a gravel driveway. And his advice seems solid otherwise why would my neighbors old rig and much smaller boxblade turn my road into a pot hole free driveway.
Appreciate the advice, looks like I will buy the one that weighs 530 pounds

 

[big bubba]

having rippers on a box blade is useful. hyd is expensive, mine just manually engage. plus more wt
having a hyd top link is a real benefit too, esp while grading

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Have a local company who builds a decent box blade at a good price. My choices are narrowed down to a 72 inch wide model that weighs 357 lbs for $599:
Titan 3 Series

Or a 530 pound version for $675:
Titan 3 Series

It will be used to keep my almost 600 foot gravel driveway in shape and to occasionally level some soil in places.

For $76 it seems like a no brainer to go with the HD version. Thoughts?

Those blades sound incredibly light. I'd want a heavier box blade if it was me. And do those come with scarifiers?

 

[RandyinTN]

They come with teeth.
What would you expect a 6 foot box blade to weigh if 530 pounds is considered incredibly light?

 

[FTG-05]

They come with teeth.
What would you expect a 6 foot box blade to weigh if 530 pounds is considered incredibly light?

My 6' LMC weighs 675 lbs according to the factory. I wish I had gone with a 7'.

 

[Threepoint]

Randy, you're right, it's a no brainer! Your tractor will easily handle the heavier BB. In fact, my NX4510HST cab easily handles my 84" Woods BSM84, 750 lbs.

Top and tilt is your friend with an implement like that. For your tractor, a nice set up with both hydraulic top link and side link will run you about $600 to $700, I think, but haven't priced for the NX in about three years.

 

[CMV]

TnT I don't think is necessary on an NX. I have the hyd toplink only. left-right level is pretty simple with the crank handle and most adjustments after that is correct are forward-back angle with toplink.

And necessary is a stretch in my case. Very convenient more precise.

357 lbs would be the incredibly light one. I'd pass there just for fear of durability/longevity since that low weight is coming from something being a lot thinner even compared to a basic one from TSC. 530 lbs for a 6' is right there with all the common "medium duty" ones. Here are a few common light & med duty ones for reference, all 72":

Land Pride BB12 - 404 lbs
Land Pride BB15 - 504 lbs
Bush Hog BBX - 390 lbs
Bush Hog SBX - 550 lbs
County line (TSC) - 450 lbs
Woods BSS - 551 lbs

Yes, weight is your friend and in general more=better. But you get to a point where you are spending a lot of $ just to add weight for the sake of adding weight - you don't need the extra material thickness and construction strength for a basic gravel road and general high/low spot quick fixes in dirt here & there. Some here would suggest spending $1500 instead of $600 just to get an insane amount of weight. Simple fact is a box blade is still gonna work even if it isn't causing a wheelie condition due to its inordinate mass You can even rip and level real bad virgin ground @ 500 lbs, just takes a lot more passes and angle fiddling to get the first cuts not wanting to skim over places. You can probably also think of a LOT of ways to add some weight to your 500 lbs box blade (if you need it!) a lot cheaper than buying a truly heavy duty one.

 

[CMV]

Not that I recommend doing it, but it worked. Super simple way to double the weight Point is you can easily add weight to one with stuff you may already have.

I'd also stick with 6' even though you can pull wider a lot of times. Same as bucket width so you just know where it is, covers tracks easily, less likely to anchor it. And you can anchor the NX4510HST with a 6' box blade - even a "puny, little girl one" like my 530 lbs one 4wd, low, creeping, ind tires with rears filled, you can still anchor it. Depends what you're getting into with it, how wide of a road you're maintaining, etc.