Boots for the forest

[sherpa]

We work in the mountain forest a lot! We live in the mountains and I need a boot that I can plant my foot down and it will stay in one place without sliding and causing me to lose balance and falling. I usually have a chainsaw or brush cutter or some kind of equipment in my hand making it even harder to balance. I've have a pair of wolverine insulated boots for 9 years that work best but all my new work boots are only good on level ground only. I have even considered cutting wider groves in my boots. I also thought that maybe they make something that straps onto or around the boots for more grip on steep hills full of leaves. Then I decided that somebody on this forum has been where I am already and found a good boot for working on the sides of hills. Anyone else experienced what I am talking about?
Sherpa

 

[ning]

I think the best thing is a boot that's snug fitting and then expect to kick the edge of your foot into the hill to maintain a level footing. Something with a good vibram sole and plenty of ankle support (my ankles are fine but for working on a side slope any help is welcome).

I've got some Justin work boots that I've been wearing the last 5 years that have been the best yet for me

 

[oosik]

Get a boot with a Vibram sole. Large, wide open lugs will hold the ground better.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

I'm going to tell you what to look for, and why, and let you search Georgia Boots or Carolina Boots for what is important to you. Below in no particular order of importance.

8" shaft - enough to keep the dirt out, but not difficult to lace up (or get into) as a 10" or 12" boot. or,
12" shaft - again, enough to keep the dirt out, but more ankle support. Paratroopers use 12" + boots for the ankle support

Steel shank for arch support. Ribbed is stronger than smooth, of shanks of the same dimensions and material.

Eyes for laces - not speed hooks. On occasion, the loop from one foot will catch on the speed hook on the other shoe, and spill you onto the ground.

As others have written, Vibram sole and heel with deep lugs

Heel - 2". As you plant your foot on the forest floor, the smaller profile of the heel will help to penetrate the floor, before the sole hits the floor. It will give you a bit of a "stake" in the floor.

Storm welt or Goodyear welt. Storm is more water resistant, but both of them are better than non-descript. Welts are how the upper is attached to the sole.

Steel toe

I personally don't like waterproof boots - I find them hot and don't release the moisture from perspiration. I think if you get leather, and either of the above mentioned welts, you will be fine in a forest environment.

Kiltie - provides protection to keep sticks and branches from sticking into the soft tongue material

Full grain leather upper for maximum stiffness and support

 

[Jstpssng]

Try a pair of these; HAIX Bootstore

Yes, they are a bit pricey but designed for the use you describe. I don't own a pair yet but they will be my next boot purchase. People I know that have them speak highly.

An aside; I've worn bargain boots all of my life and am starting to pay for it now. There are days when I can barely walk, my feet hurt so badly.

 

[ericm979]

I like logger boots for this kind of work. The ones with the small heel. That makes it easier to walk down steep hills. I use mine when hiking on the steeper hills on my property even without the chainsaw because they work so much better than regular work boots. Steel toes for chainsaw use of course.

Mine are Redwings but many companies make them.

LoggerMax | RedWing

Featuring steel toe and electrical hazard protection, this black waterproof boot is built on a heavy-duty welt construction platform for stability, with an all-terrain fire and ice sole for best-in-class slip resistance. Shop Now At Red Wing Shoes.

www.redwingshoes.com

 

[Root Cause]

My land fits your description exactly. I cut an acre this past summer with Solomon hiking boots. I did most of my research asking those who hiked in this kind of terrain. No doubt there are other goods ones but I will stick with Solomon's. You can see them and see some reviews on Amazon, then buy wherever.

 

[ponytug]

X2 on good Vibram soles, stitched on so you can replace them when needed, and a steel shank.

I think that @ning makes a great point, after getting a good boot, I find that there is something of a technique to kicking/planting your boot into the hillside. For me at least, it has become second nature for traversing steep slopes. Kick, test, transfer weight, repeat. I don't think about it, it is just habit.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Calks.

Danner Pronghorn 8" Calk Logger Boot by Hoffman

Danner Pronghorn 8" Calk Logger Boot by Hoffman | Buy Online | Lifting.com

www.westechrigging.com

 

[jyoutz]

We work in the mountain forest a lot! We live in the mountains and I need a boot that I can plant my foot down and it will stay in one place without sliding and causing me to lose balance and falling. I usually have a chainsaw or brush cutter or some kind of equipment in my hand making it even harder to balance. I've have a pair of wolverine insulated boots for 9 years that work best but all my new work boots are only good on level ground only. I have even considered cutting wider groves in my boots. I also thought that maybe they make something that straps onto or around the boots for more grip on steep hills full of leaves. Then I decided that somebody on this forum has been where I am already and found a good boot for working on the sides of hills. Anyone else experienced what I am talking about?
Sherpa

If you want the very best, get what us foresters and many loggers wear: whites handmade boots. They aren’t cheap at all but they are custom made for your feet and rebuildable. They last me about 20 years and I get them resoled twice during that time. The fit and quality is unmatched. The smoke jumper model is the one that most of us wear in the woods.

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