Boots for the forest

   / Boots for the forest #11  
I don't own a better boot with a great grip on the ground than my Mucks. Vibram sole - 12" high - defined heal - waterproof. A warmer boot - yes, my Canadian Komek winter pacs. A cooler shoe - my summer Keen - low cut trail cruiser.
 
   / Boots for the forest #12  
We work in the mountain forest a lot! We live in the mountains and I need a boot that I can plant my foot down and it will stay in one place without sliding and causing me to lose balance and falling. I usually have a chainsaw or brush cutter or some kind of equipment in my hand making it even harder to balance. I've have a pair of wolverine insulated boots for 9 years that work best but all my new work boots are only good on level ground only. I have even considered cutting wider groves in my boots. I also thought that maybe they make something that straps onto or around the boots for more grip on steep hills full of leaves. Then I decided that somebody on this forum has been where I am already and found a good boot for working on the sides of hills. Anyone else experienced what I am talking about?
Sherpa

Note: not a logger but have three saws, protective pants and the proper slip on rubber compound chainsaw boots.

Proper comfortable boots will be pricy So choosing is important. Calks would be nice but the days of river runs are over. There would be toothed over pull on type grip enhancers available. ( crampons ) Lots of versions of Crampons available as they are a staple in ice climbing and some other recreational activities. Listed is one site giving a quick glimpse of what is required for a good safe boot. Information only, no Brand alliance.
 
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   / Boots for the forest #13  
I would agree about the vibram lug sole to the boot. That is much more important than what brand or model boot you are wearing. The magic is in the sole lug pattern.

I had an old pair of Red Wing work boots re-soled with the vibram lug sole. They are my best non-insulated hunting boots. Can pretty much get traction on any type of surface except sheet ice.
 
   / Boots for the forest
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks for all the comments, I never knew there were so many different options for the right mountain woods boot. I been educated.
 
   / Boots for the forest #15  
Had a fellow visit me this summer. He had a pair of high top boots. Like high top tennis shoes. They were light weight and with a very aggressive Vibram sole. The interesting part - the sole and all its lugs wrapped up on the sides of the boot. Not far up - about an inch or so.

He said great for sidehilling and such. The "wrapped up" sole clung to rocks and hard ground without having the boot flat on the ground.
 
   / Boots for the forest
  • Thread Starter
#16  

oosik

Them boots sound like a dirt bike knobby tire. Someone earlier shared some hiking boots that looked like that?
 
   / Boots for the forest #17  

oosik

Them boots sound like a dirt bike knobby tire. Someone earlier shared some hiking boots that looked like that?
That's a very good description - sherpa. Wearing a pair like that a person would soon learn to not shuffle along. Otherwise - flat on your face quite often.
 
   / Boots for the forest #18  
Redwing Loggers if you want the steel toe, or Reding Wildfire boots if you don’t. I’ve been wearing them for about fifty years. I grew up in them. Mom started putting them on my feet when i was a toddler. I still remember standing on the fluoroscope at Nicks, in Boise and wiggling my toes. Highly cool experience for a small boy, and I was disappointed when they took it out of the store.

With proper oiling, and resoling by someone who knows what they are doing, they last for years, and even decades. I just had to give up on a pair from 1975, because the leather insole had gotten sweaty and dried out so many times it was as rough as sand paper and destroying my socks. The cost to rebuild them was more than a new pair.

I wear Redwings, because they will provide you with a pair of different sizes, and my left foot having been broken a couple of times is a size larger, and wider, 10.5E vs. 9.5B. Redwing now charges a bit for the special sizing. But when you live in your boots, they need to be the most comfortable pair of shoes you own.

Short of having boots custom made, they are the best fitting boots i have found. Money no object, you can get customs from Whites, or Nick’s. I still have a pair of Whites Packer pattern boots made up to meet the fire boot standards from when I could still straddle a horse.

We had a guy here in Salmon who left Nicks to open a shop here, doing boot repairs, and custom pack gear for the outfitter/guides, and the rafters. But he retired last year, and I haven’t decided if I trust the guy who he sold the shop to not to screw things up. He ruined one pair of my shop boots, by grinding off too much for a resole, and getting into the stitching that held everything together.

Don’t care much for Danner’s. One of the places I worked for issued me a couple of pairs as safety boots. The high dollar two pieces eyelets they use, wear to a sharp edge which cuts the laces. If sent both pairs back because of it, and their solution was to send me a new pair both times. I felt guilty about it, and had the local guy replace the eyelets with the inexpensive one part eyelets the next time they started cutting laces. Which seems to have cured the problem.
 
   / Boots for the forest #19  
Steel toed combat boots. They make them. All military mechanics had them, or people that did construction type work. Or just skip the steel toe. I wear some most every day. They show up at thrift stores around here. Have several pair but still wearing out the first pair.
 
   / Boots for the forest #20  
If you want the best forest and logger boots you would want what the wildfire professional firefighters wear which is Nicks boots or White boots. Both will give you boots that are unmatched in fit and performance and will last a lifetime
 

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