Block heater for cab tractors

[unimog_jason]

I don't like starting a cold diesel in the dead of winter and it can be plenty cold where I am located in January & February.

I discussed this with my dealer and he told me that Kioti's official stance on this is their tractors do not require a block heater.

The dealer agreed with me that a block heater is preferred and it means you get instant heat in the cab with you start it up.

The dealer recommended a lower rad hose heater and if there was ever a problem with the engine, a simple swap of the lower hose would bring the tractor back into warranty compliance.

I inspected the lower hose on the weekend and noticed that return water line from the cab heat exchanger is located there, I think I can sneak the heater in front of the cab return line but the heater will be sitting level with the ground which is sub optimal from what I can understand and there isn't enough room to put one after the return line.

Has anyone else run up against this problem? What was your solution? At this point I'm thinking that it's either going to be a case of doing without or get the Bobcat kit and modify then engine or go with a magnetic heater if there is a clear spot to stick one.

Jason

 

[Patches]

I don't believe a block heater will void your warranty, and I would prefer this type of heater to a hose heater. IMO, a block heater is more efficient, quicker and less intrusive

 

[unimog_jason]

Based on what my dealer has told me, Kioti used to consider installing any sort of heater to void the engine warranty. They are starting to soften on this but it's not cut and dry. Given that there is no factory solution and you need to go to Bobcat for the parts indicates there is still an issue.

Given the engine only has 11 hours on it and I have 4 years of warranty in front of me I'm not going to risk anything. Worst case a magnetic heater will be better then nothing

Jason

 

[CJONE]

I agree with you on this and I know that Wallace tractor has a heater that will work without modding anything, same engine as the bobcat. I am not comfortable starting a diesel at 25 below F without a heater. Talk to your dealer for his blessing. As far as a magnetic heater good luck. I was going to use a stick on heater on the oil pan but there is no flat space. I will not use a dipstick heater sooo the immersion look to be the way to go. CJ

 

[sdkubota]

I believe a block type heater is the best for any motor.

 

[rd_macgregor]

My '06 DK45SC came with a block heater. Don't they do that anymore??
BOB

 

[Buckgnarly]

We get 40 below here, I'll take my chances on voiding the warranty as opposed to no block heater. Every one of our vehicles has one, and they NEED it at those temps.

You can always put the freeze plug back in, but I have no idea how a decent dealer could relate a block heater to causing warranty voiding damage.

 

[sdkubota]

You do need to be cautious when removing any frost plug as many tractors have the cylinder sleeve almost touching the frost plug. That is why many Kubota models have a frost plug extension with the block heater. Don't go banging and drilling recklessly when removing the frost plug.

 

[kiotiken]

My dealer installs lower rad heaters standard and did so on both my CK30 and DK45 cab. It's a little tight in there, but it fits exactly where you described on the DK. I haven't had the DK45 though the winter, but the heater worked very well with the CK30. I had a true block heater on my JD 955 and I think it was faster, but the lower rad heater does the job too. I've never heard about the warranty being an issue. I've never asked to have it installed, they just come that way from my dealer. I'd have to imagine he'd have to stand behind it.

 

[tcreeley]

I had two Nissan sentra's a year apart (bought new)- back when the temps would be 20-25 below. My wife's had a radiator hose heater installed and the other one didn't. After 7 years, my wife's car needed a head gasket. The sentra without the heater was fine. I don't know if there was a connection- but I always wondered. We kept it plugged in a lot.

 

[unimog_jason]

My dealer installs lower rad heaters standard and did so on both my CK30 and DK45 cab. It's a little tight in there, but it fits exactly where you described on the DK.

Can you get a picture of how they installed it so I can compare to the factory layout?

Jason

 

[kiotiken]

Can you get a picture of how they installed it so I can compare to the factory layout?

Jason

No problem, I'll try and get it for you tomorrow. It's a really busy day, so don't feel bad reminding me tomorrow night if I don't post a pic by then.

 

[kiotiken]

Can you get a picture of how they installed it so I can compare to the factory layout?

Jason

Here's what I have.

 

[unimog_jason]

I see what they did, and it's what I was thinking about too.

The cab heater return line is normally placed (at least on my tractor) where the heater is located on yours. By placing the heater where the return is normally placed they were able to l mount it on an angle. Clearly your tractor had enough slack in the heater hose to move it a couple inches down, hopefully mine has enough slack too.

Jason

 

[kiotiken]

I see what they did, and it's what I was thinking about too.

The cab heater return line is normally placed (at least on my tractor) where the heater is located on yours. By placing the heater where the return is normally placed they were able to l mount it on an angle. Clearly your tractor had enough slack in the heater hose to move it a couple inches down, hopefully mine has enough slack too.

Jason

Well, every tractor they sell has the same set up, I didn't ask to have it installed for either tractor I've bought from them, so I'd assume they all should have enough slack. Good luck.

 

[unimog_jason]

I checked my tractor last night and it should be possible to get enough slack to relocate the return port a couple inches further away.

My next question is has anyone ever drained the cooling system on a cab tractor? I'm concerned that if I drain the system will the heat exchanger in the cab also drain and will I have to deal with an air lock.

I suspect there must be a check valve in the system somewhere otherwise wouldn't the coolant flow out of the rad when you take the cap off?

I was thinking I would pinch both of the heater hoses before draining just to be sure.

Jason