Best truck under $10k?

/ Best truck under $10k? #81  
No road salt (winter) equals no rusted frames. The one thing I have issues with are the steel brake lines that American manufacturers like to use. They all eventually rust out (salt or no salt) from moisture splash. I've replaced brake (hard lines) on a couple vehicles now and in the process of re-hard lining another. Don't know why domestic builder don't use nickel copper alloy hard lines like European builder do. They last the life of the vehicle, are much easier to work with and not as expensive as the pre bent steel lines.
I can't think of a bigger safety issue than no brakes. My wife was driving our 97 F150 when a brake line gave out. She called me and said the brake went to the floor when leaving work. I told her to use the emergency brake. She was able to make it home using the emergency brake. I replaced the brake lines with copper-nickel lines.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #82  
I guess the better question is... what would you buy?
First question would be if you need a full-sized pickup, or will a compact work?
Secondly, 4WD or will 2WD do the job?
I've had a lot of trucks throughout my life. Although some were full sized, most were smaller...like a Ford Ranger or Toyota Tacoma.
I have a 2016 Tacoma crew cab and 4WD... when it comes time to trade, I'd go for another Tacoma
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #83  
Toyota replaced the frames of those affected with the rust problems, was a time you could see stacks of frames behind dealerships that had been replaced.
A friend of mine has a son that works for a Toyota dealership. He made some decent deals on those and got a few for family members, all with the replaced frames.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #84  
No road salt (winter) equals no rusted frames. The one thing I have issues with are the steel brake lines that American manufacturers like to use. They all eventually rust out (salt or no salt) from moisture splash. I've replaced brake (hard lines) on a couple vehicles now and in the process of re-hard lining another. Don't know why domestic builder don't use nickel copper alloy hard lines like European builder do. They last the life of the vehicle, are much easier to work with and not as expensive as the pre bent steel lines.


He should look for European build pickup truck............

Just kidding.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #85  
I can't think of a bigger safety issue than no brakes. My wife was driving our 97 F150 when a brake line gave out. She called me and said the brake went to the floor when leaving work. I told her to use the emergency brake. She was able to make it home using the emergency brake. I replaced the brake lines with copper-nickel lines.
Planned obsolence especially up here in road salt country. At least there is an alternative and they can be easily replaced with the right (flaring and bending) tools and the correct couplings. Besides, replacing a pre bent steel hardline with many bends would most likely be a nightmare anyway. First thing car restorers do is replace the steel hardlines with copper alloy lines.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #86  
Planned obsolence especially up here in road salt country. At least there is an alternative and they can be easily replaced with the right (flaring and bending) tools and the correct couplings. Besides, replacing a pre bent steel hardline with many bends would most likely be a nightmare anyway. First thing car restorers do is replace the steel hardlines with copper alloy lines.
I got pretty good at bending new brake lines to match the old ones. It’s not that hard of a skill to master with inexpensive hand tools. I replaced the ones on our 93 Suburban.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #87  
At least the older stuff is a double standard flare. Most european vehicles are double bubble flare. I use a Rigid flaring tool myself. and the cheap HF pliers style bender. Ni-Cop is easy to work with, glad of that and it never corrodes. The Rigid tool does all the flares. What I did with my wife's van is I re-routed the lines along the frame rail instead of up and over everything and secured them with nylon cable stays. that way there was little to no fitting of anything plus they are out where I can see them. Ni-Cop lines make that easy to do. I left the steel lines intact under the hood as the were fine (not corroded) and just switched to Ni-Cop underneath where road spray had corroded them. Nice thing about the Rigid tool is you can flare steel lines too. One time deal. The van will corrode away before I need to be concerned with the hard lines again.

Gotta love road salt up here...lol
 
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/ Best truck under $10k? #89  
No road salt (winter) equals no rusted frames. The one thing I have issues with are the steel brake lines that American manufacturers like to use. They all eventually rust out (salt or no salt) from moisture splash. I've replaced brake (hard lines) on a couple vehicles now and in the process of re-hard lining another. Don't know why domestic builder don't use nickel copper alloy hard lines like European builder do. They last the life of the vehicle, are much easier to work with and not as expensive as the pre bent steel lines.
I bought my 1990 F250 new, so I know what has been done to it. About three years ago, I had to replace the brake line to the rear because it had rusted to failure. Apparently the warning lights were not working and I didn't find out about it until a routine check of fluids. For light use, the brakes worked OK. When the time came to do the front brakes at 440,000 KM I noticed a problem with a caliper and decided that because the flex lines were original, I should change them too. Of course the steel lines refused to disconnect without damage but at that mileage and thirty-one years of age I felt that I got decent value for those parts.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #91  
I bought my 1990 F250 new, so I know what has been done to it. About three years ago, I had to replace the brake line to the rear because it had rusted to failure. Apparently the warning lights were not working and I didn't find out about it until a routine check of fluids. For light use, the brakes worked OK. When the time came to do the front brakes at 440,000 KM I noticed a problem with a caliper and decided that because the flex lines were original, I should change them too. Of course the steel lines refused to disconnect without damage but at that mileage and thirty-one years of age I felt that I got decent value for those parts.
One thing to always keep in mind is, the flex hoses will deteriorate inside after a while so I replace them when I do a brake job and replace the calipers. The obvious sign of deteriorated flex lines is the calipers won't retract fully and the pads hang on the rotors. The only thing that retracts the pads on a disc brake caliper is the seal between the puck and the caliper body so it don't take much in the way of blockage to cause a dragging pad scenario. When I do that, I'll soak the flex hose fitting to the the hard line fitting with either PBlaster or acetone and ATF mix for a few days prior to taking them apart. Also I always replace the caliper (reman) when I do a brake job. The slide pins on calipers have a habit of hanging up when driven on salted roads in the winter. me and Rock Auto are good friends.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #92  
Just under a year ago I found a 2016 F150 4x4 xl sport 5 litre 8ft box with max towing with 275k km (about 170k miles) on auction and safety included.
I won it for 11.5k cdn or about 9000us. Spent a couple grand on winter tires and rims, new battery, and had one brake seize.
A part of me was reluctant due to the high mileage but figured it was mainly highway and not much stop and go city driving.
So far so good. Done 3 x 1000km plus road trips without any real issues.
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #93  
Very Subjective - too many decisions to narrow it down (this is why I hesitated to answer earlier)

Chevy / GMC / Dodge / Ford / Nissan / Toyota / Jeep / Other
auto / manual
2x4 / 4x4
long box / medium box / short box / flat deck
2, 3, 4 door
for payload / hauling / towing etc
reg cab / ext cab / crew cab
1/2 T / 3/4 T/ 1 T / other
economy / capability
under / over certain mileage or kms
age of truck
fleet side / stepside
import / domestic
open / canopy / camper
what size engine needed
etc. etc. etc.

I have a '93 Chevy Silverado C2500,BS - old body style, 6.5 box, ext cab, 350 cid, auto, towing package, canopy, with only 164,000 kms, I bought it 6 yrs ago, it suits my needs very well. if I were to list it in Canada, I'd now ask $8000
- that same week we had sold a 2007.5 yr Sierra Crew K1500 auto 4x4 all the bells, whistles

If I were to now replace the Silverado, I'd be looking at something similar in 4x4. I can't get to that point yet, current truck is fine

Dreaming ... 1951 Chevy 5 window stepside; 1978 Dodge Lil' Red Express; 1959 Chevy El Camino
 
/ Best truck under $10k? #95  
That applies to all AFM engines (5.3) in any GM built product Interesting thing in the article is the addition of the complaint that Chrysler owners are complaining that FCA don't include a low oil warning with their vehicles... Does anyone? I don't believe so. What the dipstick is for last time I checked and I check the oil levels in all my vehicles regularly anyway. Don't have to with the tires now because all of them have TPMS units, though I will 'top them up' occasionally. I deleted the AFM feature (which isn't really anything other than a way for GM to meet it's obligatory CAFE average fuel requirements and nothing more. You can delete it with the addition of a Holley-Range delete module that plugs into the OBD port or you can disconnect the Molex plug on the brake booster (but that will cause a check engine light). The Range module discretely disables the AFM and no check engine light. Two things I've observed. One, the average fuel mileage did not decrease at all (gets terrible mileage no matter what) and the oil consumption per distance traveled is becoming less and less as time goes on.

The 5.3 in the Suburban was using a quart every 1500 miles average. Now it's down to maybe 1/2 quart. The range module don't fit every application and it's not all that cheap either, but it's better than a lunched engine in my view.
 
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/ Best truck under $10k? #97  
… Does anyone? I don't believe so. What the dipstick is for last time I checked and I check the oil levels in all my vehicles regularly anyway. …
Our 2003 Impala, 2003 Suburban, 2013 Impala all have low oil level sensors.
 

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