Best mower for my needs?

[novasbc]

I've been reading threads about the different types of mowers and brands over the last several days, after deciding to buy a Kubota L3400, 34hp tractor with a FEL.

We already have a zero turn mower for around the house, so I want a mower suitable for the test of the ten acres. It doesn't need to be super quality cut, just to keep it down, and deal with the occasional mesquite that tries to pop up. Nothing over 2" in diameter.

In general, I would only more the entire property once a month at best, but I do want to keep the roads cut more often than that. I am planning on planting some sunflower and/or Milo for the doves this year, and I want to use it to cut strips during the season as an attractant.

I was assuming I would get a shredder, as that's all I've ever seen if it's not a finish mower.

The flail mower seems very interesting, but I see as many opinions as noses on the subject.

The idea it doesn't kick out so much stuff if I am near family and/or vehicles is very enticing, as well as in general the better crunching of the grass. Getting closer to buildings also seemed a plus.

I an not opposed to buying new, but definitely really want to stay under $2000 (or lower). If I go with a shredder, I can find plenty on the used market for pretty cheap, and they are easily serviced.

I read through three hundred pages of the big flail mower thread, but still haven't come away with a strong opinion about which way to go, other than the pluses I previously listed.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[novasbc]

By the way, the land is very straight. When you let the grass grow, it can get 4-5 foot high.

Over time, I'll be clearing more trees that have grown up over the years, and being able to shred more of the property.

 

[jeff9366]

A Rotary Cutter/Bush Hog will cut grass attractively if the two blades are kept sharp. That precludes mowing Mesquite if you want a high quality cut.

Dragging out small Mesquite, roots and all, should be easy with a Ratchet Rake attached to your bucket.
VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

You can mow fairly close to buildings and fence lines if you buy a R/C 24" wider than your tractor.

Rotary Cutters are the simplest, most durable of PTO powered implements.

I cannot imagine more that 1/4 of one acre containing people or vehicles subject to damage. I have used a R/C for six years and never had anything damaged from exhaust.

The main arguments against Flail Mowers are their complexity, repair costs and greater fuel requirement when operating.

I would not store a Flail outside, though others may. In contrast, my R/C is stored outside under canvas. I mow woodland paths and community Common about four times per year.

 

[Z-Michigan]

The flail mower is nice for the reasons you mentioned... but for your stated uses, I think a rotary cutter would do just fine, for less money and with less maintenance.

I've owned both styles, and I like the flail, but a small part of me is still debating if I like it enough to buy one right now vs. the not as good, but adequate, rotary cutter.

 

[sweettractors]

I've been reading threads about the different types of mowers and brands over the last several days, after deciding to buy a Kubota L3400, 34hp tractor with a FEL.

We already have a zero turn mower for around the house, so I want a mower suitable for the test of the ten acres. It doesn't need to be super quality cut, just to keep it down, and deal with the occasional mesquite that tries to pop up. Nothing over 2" in diameter.

In general, I would only more the entire property once a month at best, but I do want to keep the roads cut more often than that. I am planning on planting some sunflower and/or Milo for the doves this year, and I want to use it to cut strips during the season as an attractant.

I was assuming I would get a shredder, as that's all I've ever seen if it's not a finish mower.

The flail mower seems very interesting, but I see as many opinions as noses on the subject.

The idea it doesn't kick out so much stuff if I am near family and/or vehicles is very enticing, as well as in general the better crunching of the grass. Getting closer to buildings also seemed a plus.

I an not opposed to buying new, but definitely really want to stay under $2000 (or lower). If I go with a shredder, I can find plenty on the used market for pretty cheap, and they are easily serviced.

I read through three hundred pages of the big flail mower thread, but still haven't come away with a strong opinion about which way to go, other than the pluses I previously listed.

Thanks!

Mark

From what you describe, I would consider something like this rotary cutter. Ken Sweet
New TRI 6 ft.Brush Cutter W/Shear Pin -3 pt. *Made in USA* WE CAN SHIP CHEAP | eBay

 

[Bungiex88]

I used a rotary cutter on my fields until I could afford a finish mower. If your not worried about quality of cut I'd get a rotary cutter. There usually cheaper then finish mowers and a lot more durable. I have a woods brush bull 60 mainly used for mowing over small trees from over grown pasture fields. Since you said it's mostly flat you won't get as much scalping like I did with mine mowing on grades. The woods is out of your price range but I bought it to cut actual brush. If I was buying one to mow fields I'd go with a king kutter rotart cuter. I bought there finish mower 6ft and love it. My rotary cutter is a 5ft but you could deffently get away with bigger for your tractor if mowing just grass. I stayed with 5ft because I was mowing over some pretty heavy stuff. My tractor is a 35hp

 

[MESSMAKER]

From what you describe, I would consider something like this rotary cutter. Ken Sweet
New TRI 6 ft.Brush Cutter W/Shear Pin -3 pt. *Made in USA* WE CAN SHIP CHEAP | eBay

Hard to beat the one Ken has for sale. It may be the next one I buy.

 

[novasbc]

From what you describe, I would consider something like this rotary cutter. Ken Sweet
New TRI 6 ft.Brush Cutter W/Shear Pin -3 pt. *Made in USA* WE CAN SHIP CHEAP | eBay

Hard to beat the one Ken has for sale. It may be the next one I buy.

This seems like a good deal compared to the pricing I see locally. I priced some new 6' cutters at the local tractor places, and the price on this is better. My father in law has suggested I be sure to get one with a heavy duty gearbox, so that's the only thing that immediately stands out.

The flail mower is nice for the reasons you mentioned... but for your stated uses, I think a rotary cutter would do just fine, for less money and with less maintenance.

I've owned both styles, and I like the flail, but a small part of me is still debating if I like it enough to buy one right now vs. the not as good, but adequate, rotary cutter.

Yes, the eternal debate, it seems.

I used a rotary cutter on my fields until I could afford a finish mower. If your not worried about quality of cut I'd get a rotary cutter. There usually cheaper then finish mowers and a lot more durable. I have a woods brush bull 60 mainly used for mowing over small trees from over grown pasture fields. Since you said it's mostly flat you won't get as much scalping like I did with mine mowing on grades. The woods is out of your price range but I bought it to cut actual brush. If I was buying one to mow fields I'd go with a king kutter rotart cuter. I bought there finish mower 6ft and love it. My rotary cutter is a 5ft but you could deffently get away with bigger for your tractor if mowing just grass. I stayed with 5ft because I was mowing over some pretty heavy stuff. My tractor is a 35hp

With all the comments on this thread, and reviewing more posts & youtube videos, here are my updated thoughts:

• It appears easier to back in with a flail mower
• Looks to me like flail mowers work in between tree cover a bit better due to their compact nature. I didn't mention, but there is some tree cover to parts of the land, that we don't plan to completely clear, including sections that we have planted pecan trees, that we will need to mow around.
• Mulching. The flail mower does a much better job of mulching, not leaving the grass to lay on the ground. I'm undecided on whether mulching in this instance is that well desired. I can say that after I mow, the leftovers tend to be somewhat of a fire hazard in the dry times. Speaking from personal experience where I had to call the fire department a few years back when a brush fire got started, and spread through the underbrush like crazy.
• Rotary cutters appear to be a bit more durable, and parts are more available locally.
• Rotary cutters are cheaper (by how much?)

In terms of cost, I have seen many brands mentioned in the giant flail thread, prominently, I see the Caroni TM1900BSC. It appears to be priced right at the high end of my price point, with a difference of $900. I've seen some other cheaper brands listed, on ebay as well.

With everything I see, it seems I have to decide if I want to spend the money to have a more mulched end-product. The biggest thing I can see where this might matter, in retrospect, is for preparation for dove season.

It is my understanding that the more clean the field is after the cut, the more the dove tend to like to land. Given that being the case, it lends some strength toward having the cleaner cut of the flail mower. Yes, I realize this seems a silly reason, but it is a sport that I enjoy partaking with friends and family.

Another question, we get lots of vines that try to grow up near the trees, and lots of poison ivy that wants to come up. In general as long as I've cleared it somewhat recently, it doesn't get too tough, but I wonder if viney things like that pose more or less of a challenge when thinking rotary vs flail.

Many thanks for the existing input!

 

[sweettractors]

The shear bolt should be fine with a 34 hp tractor on a 40 hp rated Gearbox. If you need slip clutch instead or shear bolt, the prices is only 150 higher. Ken Sweet

 

[Z-Michigan]

• It appears easier to back in with a flail mower
• Looks to me like flail mowers work in between tree cover a bit better due to their compact nature. I didn't mention, but there is some tree cover to parts of the land, that we don't plan to completely clear, including sections that we have planted pecan trees, that we will need to mow around.

1) The flail mows straight across, which is nice for areas inside fencing - you can back into a corner and mow forward without missing much. The RC mows a circle so this method misses a lot of the inside corner.
1.5) If you mean mowing in reverse, I think the RC actually works better at that. The rear roller on a flail makes backwards mowing less effective.
2) Yes/no. Many flails including the Caroni have some offset and/or allow extra offset, which is extremely helpful for mowing under trees. However, if you aren't using the offset (or don't have it), I don't find any benefit vs. an RC. I thought this was going to be a big flail advantage last time around, but even with the max offset on the TM1900 (which is around 20" from center) I found only a small benefit.

 

[Soundguy]

I've been reading threads about the different types of mowers and brands over the last several days, after deciding to buy a Kubota L3400, 34hp tractor with a FEL.

We already have a zero turn mower for around the house, so I want a mower suitable for the test of the ten acres. It doesn't need to be super quality cut, just to keep it down, and deal with the occasional mesquite that tries to pop up. Nothing over 2" in diameter.

In general, I would only more the entire property once a month at best, but I do want to keep the roads cut more often than that. I am planning on planting some sunflower and/or Milo for the doves this year, and I want to use it to cut strips during the season as an attractant.

I was assuming I would get a shredder, as that's all I've ever seen if it's not a finish mower.

The flail mower seems very interesting, but I see as many opinions as noses on the subject.

The idea it doesn't kick out so much stuff if I am near family and/or vehicles is very enticing, as well as in general the better crunching of the grass. Getting closer to buildings also seemed a plus.

I an not opposed to buying new, but definitely really want to stay under $2000 (or lower). If I go with a shredder, I can find plenty on the used market for pretty cheap, and they are easily serviced.

I read through three hundred pages of the big flail mower thread, but still haven't come away with a strong opinion about which way to go, other than the pluses I previously listed.

Thanks!

Mark

The rough cut rotary mower will be cheaper, and cheaper and easier to maintain.

The flail will cost more, and cost more and be more work to maintain.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

A rotary cutter hangs back further from the tractor, so will be a little better for backing it up under a tree canopy to cut the undergrowth.

I'd love to have a flail, but the rotary cutter is a real jack of all trades for cutting pastures. It's not the best at some things, but it's rugged and dependable . . . relative to a flail. . . . so long as you buy a good one.

 

[jeff9366]

We get vines that try to grow up near the trees, and lots of poison ivy that wants to come up. In general as long as I've cleared it somewhat recently, it doesn't get too tough, but I wonder if viney things like that pose more or less of a challenge when thinking rotary vs flail.

What type of vine(s)? Vines from roots or corms?

I remove vines, vine roots, corms and softwood roots mechanically, using a Three Point Hitch mounted, spring-protected Field Cultivator.
VIDEO: How to Use a Ripper / Field Cultivator - Gardening Series - YouTube

Alternatively, you can also spray with readily available 2,4-D based herbicide or a stronger ag herbicide containing 2,4-D plus triclopyr, such as Crossbow, or more readily available Bayer Stump and Brush Killer. Crossbow applications are cheaper than Bayer as Crossbow is mixed 2 ounces per gallon.

I fear herbicides. I prefer mechanical removal but sometimes spraying from a one gallon hand sprayer is appropriate. Killing Poison Ivy requires at least one spray.

I eliminate trash verdure. I do not deal with the same trash over and over.

 

[DieselBound]

I ran a "light duty" 5' Rankin off the back of my B7800 for six years: sold it because I was tired of the hassles of no quick hitch on the Rankin- B7800s have crappy link arms (should have replaced these!). My pasture areas are quite varied, some canary grass can get over 9' tall (that's how it was here before I started mowing). I've cut through a lot of brush and, like others have mentioned, an RC allows you to back into places that you might not be able to with a flail: I've got some pretty wet areas, and an RC allows me to push back in to them w/o getting the tractor stuck.

That Rankin went through a handful of shear bolts. I sharpened the blades once (or twice), but generally I wanted the blades dull in order to better deal with brush: surprisingly, even with cutting edges as thick as my pinky finger the RC would leave a pretty impressive cut. Bent link arm pins. Deck edge got ripped up a bit and I had to replace the tail wheel (broke it hitting a huge log). Cost I'd have to say about $60/year with repairs and depreciation: I bought it for $750 and sold it for $500 (picked up a replacement for $700 and have put $100 worth of blades on it- ready for it's first season working for me).

 

[novasbc]

Before I continue the conversation, I will take some pictures and video to illustrate what I am faced with on the property. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[novasbc]

I have had a chance to run a cutter behind my tractor last weekend. I did it at the in-law's property which is similar to mine in terms of what grows (to some degree).

I now agree that a medium duty rotary cutter should be fine. That TRI cutter seems like a good deal, but I have a few questions.

There is an option for the 90hp gear box, what is the minimum recommended PTO HP? I would like to err on the large size, as I'd like to be able to use it when/if I upgrade to a bigger tractor. Tractor data.com says a PTO HP of 29 for my Kubota.

How does it fare with water collection? My father in law has a Brush Hog SQ160, and says that the only thing he sees wrong about the TRI is all the metal on top looks like it will collect grass and water, leading to it rusting out prematurely.