Bercomac SSQA snowblower experiences

[shooterdon]

I recently sold my pull (inverted) blower but it worked well. They are not cheap, but it sure beats a front blower and the nightmare of a huge subframe to deal with.

I sold mine because we do not get enough snow to justify having that much money tied up. In four years I used it about 20-25 times. Also sold the V plow that came with the F250 I bought from the city. I am $7600 ahead.

I have a neighbor 2 miles away who will plow me out in exchange for firewood. For the few times a year we need it, that makes more sense for my circumstances. If he proves unreliable, I can get a hydraulic plow for under $3000.

One caveat about a blower. I have a cab but without one, depending on wind and where you want to blow, wind driven snow is not fun.

 

[oakhilltop]

I've seen videos of the pull blowers, but always with 4 or 5 inches of snow. How do they work with 12 inches? I always make an effort NOT to drive over the snow because I don't want to pack it down. I have a very steep grade and need to get the pavement as clean as possible. 4WD cars and trucks can have a difficult time getting up with just one or two inches on the driveway. And going down is even more problematic. Plus, we can get a warmish day where the snow melts slightly, then freezes overnight. So, I don't want tracks of packed snow from where the tires went that turn into packed ice.

It would also require some re-arranging of the garage. Having both a loader on the front and a blower on the back would take up a lot of space.

I don't use chains. There are times when the tires don't work well. Typically when there is a layer of black ice under a few inches of snow. The blower does not remove the ice. There have been a few times where I had to drop the rear ballast box to stop the tractor from sliding down the driveway. I usually put down a very light layer of salt before the storm to prevent the ice forming, by there are times when I get caught by surprise.

I appreciate the thoughts and suggestions.

 

[leonz]

A Rammy 155 commercial single stage snow thrower for the Kawasaki mule
and V bar carbide ice chains for the kawasaki mule. I grew up using singel
stage snow throwers on a 1968 IHC Cub Cadet, 1972 Simplicity and Wheel
Horse garden tractors that were not junk and they never failed us.
Lots of power with V belt driven single stages and zero mechanical trouble.

V bar snow chains are the best for slush and ice conditions.


There are several RAMMY dealers in and near New Hampshire.

 

[shooterdon]

I've seen videos of the pull blowers, but always with 4 or 5 inches of snow. How do they work with 12 inches? I always make an effort NOT to drive over the snow because I don't want to pack it down. I have a very steep grade and need to get the pavement as clean as possible. 4WD cars and trucks can have a difficult time getting up with just one or two inches on the driveway. And going down is even more problematic. Plus, we can get a warmish day where the snow melts slightly, then freezes overnight. So, I don't want tracks of packed snow from where the tires went that turn into packed ice.

It would also require some re-arranging of the garage. Having both a loader on the front and a blower on the back would take up a lot of space.

I don't use chains. There are times when the tires don't work well. Typically when there is a layer of black ice under a few inches of snow. The blower does not remove the ice. There have been a few times where I had to drop the rear ballast box to stop the tractor from sliding down the driveway. I usually put down a very light layer of salt before the storm to prevent the ice forming, by there are times when I get caught by surprise.

I appreciate the thoughts and suggestions.

I used my pull blower on 10” and it worked very well.

I have a gravel drive and getting down to “pavement” is not a good outcome because then I would be throwing stones.

In your situation, I would want a blade.

The first couple of years I had the pull blower, I mounted a cheap light duty rear blade on an adapter plate that allowed 3 point hitch attachments to be mounted on the SSQA. I used it for back dragging as the blower could not get close to buildings etc. a set up like that would scrape your pavement

 

[LouNY]

I've used my inverted pull type in 30 inches of snow fall.
No problems and it doesn't leave any packed tire tracks behind me.

 

[ruffdog]

I've seen videos of the pull blowers, but always with 4 or 5 inches of snow. How do they work with 12 inches? I always make an effort NOT to drive over the snow because I don't want to pack it down. I have a very steep grade and need to get the pavement as clean as possible.

That is the same reason I need to plow BEFORE driving on the packable snow.

 

[oakhilltop]

Can a 25HP small compact such as the Kioti CX2510 handle the pull blower through deep, say 12", snow? I am still skeptical. During big storms I usually clear the driveway after 10ish inches and then again after the storm. But, it is possible to get more overnight when I'm too lazy to get up and take care of it.

You guys did succeed in getting me to consider a 3pt rear facing snowblower on a tractor without a cab. A few questions:

- How much does a good set of mirrors help to reduce the need to turn around?

- And would a backup camera help? I wonder how well it would work during a storm or even after the storm when there is snow flying from the blower.

- The 3pt snowblowers do not have any down pressure other than their own weight. Do they still do a good job clearing? I almost always have my front mount in float mode anyway. And when I do push down to get under packed snow, it usually rides back up over the snow within a few feet. So, I don't think that I will notice any difference with a rear blower, but thought I'd ask.

 

[RjCorazza]

Can a 25HP small compact such as the Kioti CX2510 handle the pull blower through deep, say 12", snow? I am still skeptical. During big storms I usually clear the driveway after 10ish inches and then again after the storm. But, it is possible to get more overnight when I'm too lazy to get up and take care of it.

You guys did succeed in getting me to consider a 3pt rear facing snowblower on a tractor without a cab. A few questions:

- How much does a good set of mirrors help to reduce the need to turn around?

- And would a backup camera help? I wonder how well it would work during a storm or even after the storm when there is snow flying from the blower.

- The 3pt snowblowers do not have any down pressure other than their own weight. Do they still do a good job clearing? I almost always have my front mount in float mode anyway. And when I do push down to get under packed snow, it usually rides back up over the snow within a few feet. So, I don't think that I will notice any difference with a rear blower, but thought I'd ask.

No real world inverted experience, but the numerous posts I've read indicate that if your tractor can drive through the snow (blower or not), the inverted blower will work fine. My L4060 begins to have difficulty driving through 20-24" of unplowed snow.
Mirrors help, but I use front and rear cameras. Mine are mounted high on the cab and aren't adversely affected by snow. My seat also rotates 45 degrees so I'm not twisting quite so much.
Rear blowers generally have a cutting edge that is parallel to the pavement and they peel up snow well at the proper angle. Mine is also quite heavy, so it doesn't ride up much.

 

[leonz]

Can a 25HP small compact such as the Kioti CX2510 handle the pull blower through deep, say 12", snow? I am still skeptical. During big storms I usually clear the driveway after 10ish inches and then again after the storm. But, it is possible to get more overnight when I'm too lazy to get up and take care of it.

You guys did succeed in getting me to consider a 3pt rear facing snowblower on a tractor without a cab. A few questions:

- How much does a good set of mirrors help to reduce the need to turn around?

- And would a backup camera help? I wonder how well it would work during a storm or even after the storm when there is snow flying from the blower.

- The 3pt snowblowers do not have any down pressure other than their own weight. Do they still do a good job clearing? I almost always have my front mount in float mode anyway. And when I do push down to get under packed snow, it usually rides back up over the snow within a few feet. So, I don't think that I will notice any difference with a rear blower, but thought I'd ask.

The cutting edge and how sharp it is makes huge difference in how well a snow blower scrapes.

If you expect to clear snow with a push type snow thrower you needed loaded tires and
or rear weights with V bar snow and ice chains sized correctly for the rear tires.

The carbide coated V bar snow and ice chains are best for both ice and snow conditions
especially if the rear tires are not loaded.

If you install V bar snow chains on the front tires that will increase your available traction
as well since the front tires will carry a great deal of weight to create the adhesion you need
for traction.

You have to travel slowly with a low horsepower tractor when clearing as the impeller has
to have time to clear the snow that is being fed to it.

A single stage snow thrower would have no trouble with snow as it operates at a much higher
speed of rotation casting a small narrow volume of snow at 600+ RPM.
The problem with the MK Martin snow throwers is they use a single stage snow blower rotor that
is too large in diameter for the tractor horsepower.

You could invest in one of the MK Martin single stage motorized snow throwers but the RAMMY single stage
throwers are lighter and simpler in their construction with the "correctly sized-meaning the outside diameter
of the snow blower rotor.

You have to have a back up camera that uses a weatherproof screen and a back up camera
that has lights in the cameras frame surrounding the camera.

In saying that if you have adequate lighting such as an LED or Halogen light bar mounted
on the rops and pointed down past the snow thrower in combination with large
rear view mirrors it will help you a great deal in low light conditions too.

You have to remind yourself that your tractor will act and steer like a forklift and
"you have to turn in the opposite direction" to what you would normally do when
operating in reverse.

The cutting edge of the snow blower is a major part of how well your snow blower works.

Using Fluid Film spray and or WD-40 to coat the chute, spout and impeller housing can
increase your casting distance a great deal and reduce plugging.

 

[ruffdog]

I had to slowly crawl through this VERY dense drift. The tractor had no added weight or ballast and cleared to the pavement.

 

[leonz]

I neglected to add this to my comment yesterday;

As you have a small horsepower open station tractor and you are worried about
snow dust causing visibility issues you should ask whether the manufacturer of
the snow blower you are examining for eventual purchase has a chute extension
option that you can add to your sales order before you invest in it.

I want to mention to you that installing slick sheet liner material in the impeller housing
and the chute will also aid in doubling or tripling your casting distance.

 

[oakhilltop]

Thanks for your detailed replies.

I don't understand the steering issue. I thought that it would be like driving in reverse normally. Is it because the blower is on the ground that changes the steering.

I have always had 2 stage snowblowers. I am looking at the MK Meteor 2 stage, but am in no way committed to MK Martin. It was just one of the first ones that I saw. I'd like to buy one from a dealer that is somewhat local if possible.

I have been using, with some success, white lithium grease on the impellers and chute. It seems to last a few storms.

I have also tried backing down my driveway using magnetic mirrors that I put on the loader arms this year. I tried to keep the rear tires within a few inches of the driveway edge the whole way. It wasn't too bad, but then again, it wasn't snowing or snow blowing out of a chute and no blower on the back. I am still on the fence of a rear facing blower or investing in a front mount. I like the idea of a rear facing for all of the usual reasons. I did some searching for rear cameras and did find some with waterproof monitors. Maybe a split screen with 2 cameras, one on each side of the rops to view one side of the blower's edge. I am kinda at the point of "there's only one way to find out". A 3pt blower is much less cost and if it doesn't work out, would be easier to sell since it is not tied to one model of tractor.

 

[leonz]

Thanks for your detailed replies.

I don't understand the steering issue. I thought that it would be like driving in reverse normally. Is it because the blower is on the ground that changes the steering.

No, if you are sitting side saddle while clearing and your turning right the front wheels are pointing to the left

I have always had 2 stage snowblowers. I am looking at the MK Meteor 2 stage, but am in no way committed to MK Martin. It was just one of the first ones that I saw. I'd like to buy one from a dealer that is somewhat local if possible.

A RAMMY 155 commercial snow thrower could be attached to the loader if you have an ssqa.

I have been using, with some success, white lithium grease on the impellers and chute. It seems to last a few storms.

WD-40 or Fluid Film applied in layers and allowed to dry between coats


I have also tried backing down my driveway using magnetic mirrors that I put on the loader arms this year. I tried to keep the rear tires within a few inches of the driveway edge the whole way. It wasn't too bad, but then again, it wasn't snowing or snow blowing out of a chute and no blower on the back. I am still on the fence of a rear facing blower or investing in a front mount. I like the idea of a rear facing for all of the usual reasons. I did some searching for rear cameras and did find some with waterproof monitors. Maybe a split screen with 2 cameras, one on each side of the rops to view one side of the blower's edge. I am kinda at the point of "there's only one way to find out". A 3pt blower is much less cost and if it doesn't work out, would be easier to sell since it is not tied to one model of tractor.

=-=-===================================================

Find your local RAMMY dealer and go talk to them and ask about the B+S commercial snow engine used in the 155 model and the drive system.

 

[elsievo]

I know this is an older thread. I'm not familiar with the SSQA Bercomac. I do have their front 56" blower on my TYM T254 that runs off my mid pto. They make it compatible with certain Kioti's, TYMs, JD 1025, maybe others. The undercarriage is in 3 pieces that are easy enough to handle when it comes time to install. (I do have to remove the front mount for the mower when I put the snowblower on.) This is a pretty solid piece of equipment. I live in an area that averages over 250 inches a year. But I would have to admit that our snow is much fluffier than what you guys out east have to handle. Be that as it may I get 40 to 50' of distance with only 18hp at the pto. I like having the blower on the front, much easier to use for me.

 

[oakhilltop]

I'm considering the TYM T25 now and would be interested in this Bercomac snowblower.

Do you put the undercarriage on at the start of winter and remove it in the spring?

How long does it take to install and remove the undercarriage?

Bercomac does not have videos for the installation of the undercarriage. Was it pretty straightforward to figure out how it attaches to your TYM?

I think this is belt driven instead of a chain drive. I think that the chain would be better, but you sound pretty happy with yours.

 

[elsievo]

Yes, I have to put it on and take it off as the plates that hold the blower on to the tractor replace the ones for the mower. Then there is another piece of undercarriage that supports the shaft which attaches to these plates. There is a shaft to hook up at the front and then the one that runs to the mid pto. I use some pieces of 2x4 to hold the shaft level during the installation before everything gets tightened up. It takes me a couple hours to change it over as I often do something dumb and have to back up and do it over. It is pretty straightforward to install, look at the pictures carefully with the support plates so you get them on the right side of the tractor. And do not fully tighten until the lift mechanism is between the plates. The blower itself I have on a pallet so I can move it to line things up. I bought a electric deflector control and use hydraulic chute rotation.

Yes it has a belt that runs from the pto shaft up to the impeller. It's like a snowmobile belt, I kind of like the idea of a belt as it may have a bit of give if I hit something. Shear pins work well as the grader usually puts rocks in the end of driveway. I do wish they had powder coated the auger shaft black so it is easier to line up the holes so you can punch out the fragment left in the shaft. Fairly tight tolerances for shear bolt holes.

There is a guard to keep you from putting your hand down the chute. This did cause a clog when I did have some real wet heavy stuff to blow. As long as I went slow it didn't have a problem. When I pushed it to fast it clogged. I do wipe the bucket, impeller and chute down with silicone periodically. Again most of the time we get the lighter fluffier stuff that I get to blow across the street.

I put 240 lbs of weight on the back to help my turf tires get traction and it works well for me. Sometimes you just have to finesse things a bit with a smaller, lighter tractor.

Sorry about the novel. Overall I'm real happy with this blower. I did get their cab also. It's nothing to brag about but it keeps the wind and the snow off me when I'm blowing and keeps enough engine heat around me to be comfortable.

 

[leonz]

If you are still examining this perhaps a JD series 1 or 2 with one of the john deere 2 stages
for the 1 or 2 series mules and a set of chains will be the better of the options for you

 

[bmaverick]

I recently discovered the existence of the Bercomac SSQA snowblower .

I am not sure about the durability of it. Let me know if you have seen these. I'd like to hear what others have experienced. At the moment, it appears to me as an expensive gamble. It may be one of those you either love it or hate it thing. It would be a major bummer to buy one and during the first storm realize that it doesn't work well for me.

As I see it,
Pros:
Independent of tractor model/brand
Quickly attach and remove. It would be easy to put the bucket back on when needed.

Cons:
Appears to add 1 to 2 feet of length to the tractor. Less maneuverable
Have to make sure there is a supply of gas
Have to start another engine when going to clear snow..

Bercomac and BerVac (RAD Tech now) made OE snowblowers for Yanmar, Deere, Ford/New Holland and others from the 1970 up into today. The founder of Bercomac started BerVac. For snowblowers, the designs are nearly identical.

On a map, the two companies are literally 10 miles apart from one another. Combined, they make up to 78% of the Ag, UTV snow blowers in N.A.

Bercomac

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[SnowDuke]

I neglected to add this to my comment yesterday;

I want to mention to you that installing slick sheet liner material in the impeller housing
and the chute will also aid in doubling or tripling your casting distance.

I am not familiar w slick sheet liner. What is it and where o you get?

 

[Carl_NH]

Slick sheet typically is UHMW Poly material 1/8" or 1/16" thick (depending on the clearance you have) to line the drum and chute. Attach with bolts at the ends and in the middle with flush mount screws or rivets.

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