Basement Remodel help

/ Basement Remodel help #1  

Doc_Bob

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I am going to start working on remodeling part of my basement. The basement is dry (was very wet in the past) since I installed gutters and downspouts (the first 35 years of it's existence it had no gutters!!!!!). No mold. I have not tested for radon, should I?

Looks like I have about an area 28 ft by 18 ft. Ceiling is about 8 ft. Cement floor with one drain and one sump pump.

I looked at the Owens/Corning basement "system". Nice system, but has only 4 inches of insulation in the walls. I was thinking I would do better with more insulation. 6 inches? 12 inches? I JUST HATE being cold.

What I need is your past experiences and wisdom. Should I just rough it out with 2x4? Wood or steel studs and put up drywall? Blueboard?
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help #2  
Is your basement below grade? When I finished my basement I went with the 2x4 stud walls and R13 insulation. After having it over half studded I saw that Owens Corning system. It looks like it would have been lots faster in the general living spaces (any area without drain vents and lots of other stuff in the walls). Mine is mostly below grade and 1500 watt oil filled space heater takes care of it.

YMMV

Andy
 
/ Basement Remodel help #3  
Doesn't look like this is a tractor project.

If you think there might be radon and you intend to live in the house, maybe you should test.

Suggest you read about wood v. steel and fiberglass v. foam board insulation in basements on the Fine Homebuilding website at Taunton Press. It's been a while since I looked at this, but it seems like the recommended approach if there is any question about moisture is to seal the walls with drylock or similar product, put up nonwater absorbing foam board on the block walls, and then install steel studs over the foam board. When you run electrical wiring, be sure to use the plastic inserts in the studs to protect the wires from the sharp edges on the steel. If you have any moisture concerns, you could use moisture resistant drywall at least on the lower part of the walls.

If the basement is all below grade, I'm not sure that you need the same amount of insulation as above grade because the wind certainly won't be blowing through it. It's just a matter of isolating the living space from the surrounding earth.

Don't know anything about the OC system.
 
/ Basement Remodel help #4  
You can check for radon with a detector similiar to smoke detector my brother found one on the net for $100 or you can buy those canisters that you leave exposed for a certain amount of time and then mail out to the lab. You mention that you have a sump pump the pit will be a source for radon On one house we actually tied into the sump drainage pipe and used that to exhaust the radon out from the basement. We installed the fan in the attic over the garage to keep the noise down.

When I finish a basement I use a product called thoro seal. It's the same product used for sealing concrete pools. Then I give it a coat of exterior paint then I install foam and then stud out with 2X4's. I leave at least an inch gap between the foam and the studding wall to keep the wood from wicking any moisture and it also allows for a fudge factor to get the walls plum and straight. For sheetrock the manufacturers have a new fiberglass based sheetrock that mold won't grow on. It is a little more expensive but definitely worth it. Also on the ceilings I use 5/8 firecode. It lays flatter and offers some fire protection. On floors I use ceramnic tile or vinyl- no carpet or wood. Just my 2cents -Ed
 
/ Basement Remodel help
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Red55 said:
On floors I use ceramnic tile or vinyl- no carpet or wood. Just my 2cents -Ed

I have wondered about radiant heat with tile. Any thoughts?
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Red55 said:
You can check for radon with a detector similiar to smoke detector my brother found one on the net for $100 or you can buy those canisters that you leave exposed for a certain amount of time and then mail out to the lab. You mention that you have a sump pump the pit will be a source for radon On one house we actually tied into the sump drainage pipe and used that to exhaust the radon out from the basement. We installed the fan in the attic over the garage to keep the noise down.

-Ed

I ordered both types of Radon detectors online last night. My house is 35 years old, so I am not sure how radon abatement would work using the sump, but a good idea.
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help
  • Thread Starter
#7  
chrpmaster said:
Is your basement below grade? When I finished my basement I went with the 2x4 stud walls and R13 insulation. After having it over half studded I saw that Owens Corning system. It looks like it would have been lots faster in the general living spaces (any area without drain vents and lots of other stuff in the walls). Mine is mostly below grade and 1500 watt oil filled space heater takes care of it.


Andy

Yes, the basement is below grade. After you saw the OC system, would you use it if you had it to do over? 1500 watt heater for how big of a space?
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help
  • Thread Starter
#8  
2manyrocks said:
It's been a while since I looked at this, but it seems like the recommended approach if there is any question about moisture is to seal the walls with drylock or similar product, put up nonwater absorbing foam board on the block walls, and then install steel studs over the foam board. When you run electrical wiring, be sure to use the plastic inserts in the studs to protect the wires from the sharp edges on the steel. If you have any moisture concerns, you could use moisture resistant drywall at least on the lower part of the walls.

.

Nice ideas. Do you suggest fiberglass insulation in the spaces between the steel studs (over the rigid insulation on the concrete block wall)?
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help #9  
They make a new product for patching concrete called xypex and we check and patch all cracks before we begin this stuff grows in the concrete and seals it then a coat of thoro seal over all of the block .We always staple a layer of 4 mil poly/plastic to the foundation plate on the basment wall before we install the studs . It keeps wood studs from rotting/rusting out they will pick up moisture. If you develop a leak the water should run down behind the plastic before doing any damage .We also use treated lumber for the bottom plate and set it on top of the plastic if posable. This is the way we have done it for years and have had good results. When you are below grade any insulation will help R-13 OR R-19 . I had to edit about the thoro seal it is a resonable price for what you get it is a good product for unpainted block.
 
Last edited:
/ Basement Remodel help
  • Thread Starter
#10  
FULLPULL said:
When you are below grade any insulation will help R-13 OR R-19 .

Any value in higher than R-19?
Bob
 
/ Basement Remodel help #11  
You could install fiberlgas batts between the studs if you want extra insulation. I would suggest you pay attention to sealing the sillplate against air infiltration with either caulk, fiberglas batts or expanding foam sealer. This is where you'll get most of your discomfort problems.

The other suggestions are good ones, too. You can do this in a variety of ways, but attention to the details is what will make it work for you.
 
/ Basement Remodel help #12  
Yes the still plate is bad news Has to be sealed also if time allows I like to cut foam and friction fit it between the bays against the outside Stops a lot of cold air. For the radon vent we T ed into the drain going into the sump for the pump. Then ran 4'' solid drain pipe to the ceiling and out to the garage and up into the attic where the fan is located.

Ceramic tile is great for radiant heat. I don't have it but my friend does and the kids when they come in from the snow would leave their wet coats on the floor- by time their mother picked them up they were dry. When running the electrical now is the time to run all the extra goodies (ie cable or speaker wire, telephone, Cat 5 etc) Some guys are running conduit so if you decide to change something inthe future you can. Keep your low voltage away from the regular electric lines! -Ed
 
/ Basement Remodel help #13  
Yea they make a r-30 for attics it takes a thicker wall or you might set the studs out 8 or 9". It depends on your ground temp ours is around 55 deg . I cant see that you should need more than r-13 for below grade but you can add more if you think you need it. You might check the cost of each it may make a differance .
 

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