Bar on loader

/ Bar on loader #1  
D

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Anybody know what this bar is for or what it's called? I can't find it on the parts diagram. Seems like the loader won't lift as high since this got bent.
loader bar.jpg
 
/ Bar on loader #2  
Don't know what it's called but what it's for is to keep the brackets on each side even with each other when there isn't an implement attached. With it bent like that it's pulling the bottom of the brackets in towards each other, thereby putting excessive side load on the bushings and possibly causing the brackets to rub the arms. It needs to be fixed. Best way to do that is to replace it with a piece of tube welded in place. I don't know why JD used those pin in place bars, but it was a poor design. I've fixed a couple of them like that.
 
/ Bar on loader #3  
That looks like a prety poor design.
 
/ Bar on loader #4  
Don't know what it's called but what it's for is to keep the brackets on each side even with each other when there isn't an implement attached. With it bent like that it's pulling the bottom of the brackets in towards each other, thereby putting excessive side load on the bushings and possibly causing the brackets to rub the arms. It needs to be fixed. Best way to do that is to replace it with a piece of tube welded in place. I don't know why JD used those pin in place bars, but it was a poor design. I've fixed a couple of them like that.
You mean that itty bitty steel bar can do what large diameter steel tube a few inches behind it can't do?.... Maybe it only stabilizes bottom corner of attachment mount points so the bucket "pins" actually lineup....

As for lift problem, that bar has little or nothing to do with lift geometry of hydraulics and FEL arms....
 
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/ Bar on loader
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Don't know what it's called but what it's for is to keep the brackets on each side even with each other when there isn't an implement attached. With it bent like that it's pulling the bottom of the brackets in towards each other, thereby putting excessive side load on the bushings and possibly causing the brackets to rub the arms. It needs to be fixed. Best way to do that is to replace it with a piece of tube welded in place. I don't know why JD used those pin in place bars, but it was a poor design. I've fixed a couple of them like that.
How do you get it out?
 
/ Bar on loader #6  
You mean that itty bitty steel bar can do what large diameter steel tube a few inches behind it can't do?.... Maybe it only stabilizes bottom corner of attachment mount points so the bucket "pins" actually lineup....

As for lift problem, that bar has little or nothing to do with lift geometry of hydraulics and FEL arms....
Its supposed to, but often doesn't due to the poor design. The steel tube behind it is part of the arms. The little bar is pinned to the brackets. The purpose is similar. That large tube keeps the arms rigidly connected and in line with each other. The little bar is supposed to keep the two brackets lined up with each other when there isn't an attachment on the loader.
 
/ Bar on loader
  • Thread Starter
#7  
How do you get it out?
OK, wait a minute. I broke one of those side lifters with a mechanical grapple and had to take it off. I think if I did that, that bar would come out pretty easy. Then maybe I could put it in a vise and straighten it out.
 
/ Bar on loader #8  
How do you get it out?
If it's being replaced with the same part you have to take the brackets off of the arms and then after removing the pins that hold it together the brackets just slide off that bar. If it's being replaced with tube, as I suggested, it can just be cut out.
 
/ Bar on loader #9  
OK, wait a minute. I broke one of those side lifters with a mechanical grapple and had to take it off. I think if I did that, that bar would come out pretty easy. Then maybe I could put it in a vise and straighten it out.
That would work temporarily. Bending it back weakens an already poorly designed and sized part.
 
/ Bar on loader #11  
Before replacing it, I would stick a 2x4 between the bent one and the big one and pry it as straight as possible and see if that worked.
 
/ Bar on loader
  • Thread Starter
#13  
OK I can't figure how to get it out. I replaced one of the bucket holders and took the whole rig apart, but for the life of me I can't figure how to do it now.
20240724_155542.jpg
20240724_155550.jpg
 
/ Bar on loader
  • Thread Starter
#14  
OK I can't figure how to get it out. I replaced one of the bucket holders and took the whole rig apart, but for the life of me I can't figure how to do it now.
View attachment 881725View attachment 881726
On my 220r loader, that's called a "drilled pin". Looks like the only way to get it out is whack on it with a hammer. Which may be near impossible, since it's bent. May just have to cut it and get a new one.
 
/ Bar on loader #15  
Before replacing it, I would stick a 2x4 between the bent one and the big one and pry it as straight as possible and see if that worked.
While I like prying better than hammering, you're likely to bend the thin wall tube of the "big one", if you don't heat the rod first. That zinc-plated rod is solid steel, whereas the larger tube is hollow and probably only about 1/16" wall.

As noted, the smaller rod is not part of the strength or lifting geometry, it is only designed to keep the independent JDQA wrist pivots in rough synchronization when there's no implement attached to the JDQA. It isn't "Swiss optics precision" perfect, but it does the job... kinda.

... and I thought this thread was going to be about getting loaded at the bar.
 
/ Bar on loader
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Well, I finally went to my Deere dealer & bought a new "drilled pin". $250 with tax (ouch!) I had to cut the old one. It was bent in three places: the middle and both ends. I never would have gotten it out otherwise. It's a solid bar, not a tube. The alignment was definitely out of whack - couldn't lift anything right. Working great now. So, the lesson learned is - don't bump into anything with it and don't try to lift anything with it.
 
/ Bar on loader #17  
Well, I finally went to my Deere dealer & bought a new "drilled pin". $250 with tax (ouch!) I had to cut the old one. It was bent in three places: the middle and both ends. I never would have gotten it out otherwise. It's a solid bar, not a tube. The alignment was definitely out of whack - couldn't lift anything right. Working great now. So, the lesson learned is - don't bump into anything with it and don't try to lift anything with it.
I was going to suggest welding a piece of angle iron to strengthen it... but that would just transfer the weakest point somewhere else, which likely would be even more money.
 

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