Bar Length Recommendations

[Famah]

Greetings Learned Forum:

After a fair amount of reading, listening and considering, I have decided to buy a Husqvarna 346XP. My use is about 80% small stuff, with the occasional big tree. The saw is sold with an 18" bar. My dealer indicated that he might be able to throw in an extra bar. I was wondering, given this particular saw:

1. Would it be useful to have more than one size bar?

2. If no, what would be the best compromise all around bar size?

3. If yes, what 2 bar sizes would be the most useful to have?

As always, thank you for your thoughts and opinions. They are greatly appreciated.

Nick

 

[magicheater]

I run an 18" bar on my husky:thumbsup: and have taken down some pretty big trees 2' diameter plus. A 24" bar would have been nice and IF I would get another bar that would be it. You also have to bend over less with a longer bar. So for me the 18" is the best all around, 24" is the one I would want for a second.

 

[LD1]

A 24" bar is a little too much bar for that saw IMO, if you are doing cutting that actualy requires that sized bar. If only to extend your reach, but still only cut smaller stuff, thats different.

A 20" bar would work but not a lot of difference than the 18. I wouldn't go smaller at all. Only advantage is weight savings and a little cheaper on replacements, but both are minimal.

If it were mine, I'd just get the two 18" bars and make sure they take the same drive link guage. That way, there is never any confusion and all the bars and chains you have can be mixed and matched. And there will only be one size to remember when having to get replacemet chain.

But another consideration, get one bar/chain combo with square back (chisel) chain and a sprocket nose. Use this for cutting green/clean wood that is off the ground.

A second combo 18" combo I'd opt for a hard nose bar and round-back (chipper) chain. These take longer to dull in dirty wood but cut a little slower. The hardnose bat holds up better in dirtier conditions too. Example uses of this combo would be stump cutting and fence row clearing, or cutting on logs that have ben drug around and have dirt packed in the bark.

 

[Famah]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

This new saw is replacing my old friend: a 20 year old Stihl 025. Where does the time go??? That saw came with a 16" bar. So that is all I have ever known, for 20 years of cutting. I am wondering what the downsides might be if I just stayed with a 16" bar, since that is what I am used to?

Nick

 

[LD1]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

This new saw is replacing my old friend: a 20 year old Stihl 025. Where does the time go??? That saw came with a 16" bar. So that is all I have ever known, for 20 years of cutting. I am wondering what the downsides might be if I just stayed with a 16" bar, since that is what I am used to?

Nick

If you did not notice any downsides before, you will not notice any with your new saw.

 

[xyz123]

I didnt even run my 24" on my ported 357xp. For the NE 346xp 50cc JMO I would grab a 16" and a 20" or 2 18".
I like 16" on the 0-50cc saws in 3/8 or 325 in stihl RS chain and the 20" for back ups.

 

[sweettractors]

As I get older, the shorter bars seem to suit me better. Ken Sweet

 

[20 20]

I bought a 310 stihl and told them I didn't want the 20" bar. They said that'd be fine but it probably would cost more to go bigger. I said nope I want a 16" bar. I now own two stihl's with 16" bars, I use them for fire wood and logging for my mill. I have dropped trees 36" diameter with no issues except maybe having to walk to the other side to finish a cut At one time I owned saws with 24" bars, I'm perfectly content with the 16's

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Yep! A 24" is too much bar for a 346xp; I wouldn't go bigger than the 18 if it were me. The 346 is a great saw, you will be very pleased with the 18 & .325 set-up. I usually run a 20" on my 372xp and a 24" (& sometimes a 36") on my Stihl 056. I would opt for the dealer to supply a few more chains & some decent 2 cycle mix instead of an extra bar.

 

[newbury]

I'd agree with getting a second 18" bar, as backup would be most useful.
Unless he'll give you a 50" bar and chain Tell him you want to try some milling
It wouldn't cut warm butter with your saw, but it would be worth about $300.

I've a 42" for my Stihl 660 for milling, and a 28" for regular use, but if I'm cutting with my 62CC saw a 20" is just great.

 

[studor]

+1 on sticking with the 18" -- I would also try for spare chains before a spare bar if the dealer is in a generous mood. All my saws now have 18" bars with the same chains -- when I sharpen chains I just move them from one hook to another and never have to worry about matching chain to saw.:thumbsup:

 

[westbrooklawn]

The 18" is perfect for that saw... instead of an extra bar, I'd see if he would throw in about 3 extra chains... you will go through those much quicker than you will a bar.

 

[Famah]

Maybe 18" wouldn't be so big...It's just 2" more than what I am used to, with a significantly more powerful saw. I would probably get used to it pretty quickly. What would be the advantage of the 18" bar over the 16"?

Nick

 

[Egon]

Maybe a 13 in bar. Ridiculously short but very handy for a lot of things.:thumbsup:

 

[Oliver1655]

I have used a 16" hard nosed bar with 404 chain on my Stihl S10 for years with no complaints. I recently purchased a 25" bar to aid in dropping a 52" Maple tree. While it did the job, and I like the increased reach = less bending over, I did notice a slight drop in rpm without a load. It also cut better on the top of the bar than on the bottom side. In another post at this site, one wise person mentioned you need to be sure your oiler has a large enough volume to handle the longer bars. I can't help but wonder if this might be the case with my saw. Just another thing to consider. :confused2: I only use the 25" bar when necessary.

 

[studor]

What would be the advantage of the 18" bar over the 16"?

A little more reach, a little more cutting depth, a few more teeth to sharpen, (sometimes) a touch more expensive, better "balance" on some saws (not on others) -- in other words pretty much a personal preference kinda thing!

 

[om21braz]

Famah, You've got some good advice here - but beware the first poster directing you to arboristsite.com. Next thing you know you'll have a garage full of chainsaws LOL!

 

[milkman]

I ordered a 346XP and when it came in, it had a 20" bar, it was tip heavy so I asked them to switch it for an 18" which they did and knocked off $10. I later ordered a 20" .325 Narrow Kerf from Baileys along with an extra sprocket rim. The saw is well balanced with the NK, but it seems to me the bar would be easy to bend since it's narrower than the regular .325, just have to be aware of that when I use that bar.

 

[arrow]

18" for that saw is a good all-around length. One of the places a shorter bar is convenient is when bucking stacked stems especially if your wood is on the smaller side. I like to pull each stem from the stack and carry it over to the splitter and cut it up there while it is on the front end loader. If you were going to get a larger saw like the 357, then I'd recommend 2 bars. A 20 incher and a sixteen. I echo the others who say 18" is all you need for that saw.

 

[NIXON]

Famah, You've got some good advice here - but beware the first poster directing you to arboristsite.com. Next thing you know you'll have a garage full of chainsaws LOL!

There is a lot of truth in that statement !!!
BTW My 346 wears a 16" bar . It's the older model ,and it's seems happy with it .