Ballast Photos

/ Ballast Photos #41  
Here is mine. I can just set it down to get rid of it. I made the attachment so I can use my forks as well as the weight. The weight is about 900lbs.

Steve


I need to make me around a 1200 pound one out of Concrete .
What's the Dimensions of that one .

Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet
 
/ Ballast Photos #42  
Ballast 002.jpgBallast 001.jpg Getting Closer and becoming a little more obvious now. 2000lbs when complete (not including the landscape box). I need to make sure I cast this baby close to the front door of the garage to get it out when she is done. It will have dual capability. I can pick it up using the scarifier slots and pins or the slots for the pallet fork. I am working on getting an attachment for the 3 point that will allow me to use my pallet forks on the back. I also need to pick it up with the landscape box when the pallet forks are on the FEL. Also, I could pick up my 4in1 and mount it on the adapter on the back.
 
/ Ballast Photos #43  
Looks cool! Make sure you brace the front & back of that OSB real good. I delivered concrete and saw a lot of wooden forms blow out from the weight of the concrete. You might want to run some wire completely thru the OSB To the other side in several places to keep it from spreading apart. Good luck.
 
/ Ballast Photos #44  
Looks cool! Make sure you brace the front & back of that OSB real good. I delivered concrete and saw a lot of wooden forms blow out from the weight of the concrete. You might want to run some wire completely thru the OSB To the other side in several places to keep it from spreading apart. Good luck.

Will do. I am not finished with the rebar work as I am forming the hangers for the scarifier slots now. Once I get her all mocked up, I am moving it onto a pallet with an plywood base just for a way to brace it all up. It will have 2 sheets of 6"x4'X8' Rewire in it and over 60 feet of 1/2 inch rebar and a stick of 3/4" for a single hook lift in the middle.
 
/ Ballast Photos #45  
Ballast 005.jpgBallast 003.jpgBallast 004.jpg Have it mocked up with all but 1 piece of rebar. As usual, come up short of something on a project. I will strap the front 2X4 to one in the back but it is pretty tight. Don't think I will blow anything out.

Should I paint the inside to prevent the OSB from soaking up the water from the concrete and then spray it all down with motor oil for release?
 

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/ Ballast Photos #46  
I think all you need to do is spray the inside of the OSB with diesel fuel for form release. No need to paint.
 
/ Ballast Photos #47  
Ballast 007.jpgBallast 006.jpg Concrete poured and curing. 21 - 80lb bags. With Rebar and water, should weigh in some where around 1750lbs without the landscape box attached. With box I should be about 2200lbs.
 
/ Ballast Photos #48  
/ Ballast Photos #49  
Very nice job, that is a nice counter weight. Be sure to post pic's of it in action. I am in the planning stage of building a concrete cw myself.

If you do much work in the woods, you don't want anything nearly that wide. I tried using a box blade as a counterweight when I was doing light work in the woods, and I got it hooked on trees, and stumps more times than I can recall. I only tried that because the ground was pretty soft, and I thought 1,000lbs less total weight might be better, but it wasn't worth the hassle. I went back to my steel CW, and had zero issues, other than working around soft spots.
 
/ Ballast Photos #50  
If you do much work in the woods, you don't want anything nearly that wide. I tried using a box blade as a counterweight when I was doing light work in the woods, and I got it hooked on trees, and stumps more times than I can recall. I only tried that because the ground was pretty soft, and I thought 1,000lbs less total weight might be better, but it wasn't worth the hassle. I went back to my steel CW, and had zero issues, other than working around soft spots.

I am going to keep mine compact because I do lot of work in the woods & swampy areas.
 
/ Ballast Photos #51  
I am going to keep mine compact because I do lot of work in the woods & swampy areas.

Very smart idea. It never occurred to me, but in tight conditions, trees seemed to magically jump between the rear tire and the box blade....never thought that would happen!
 
/ Ballast Photos #52  
Very smart idea. It never occurred to me, but in tight conditions, trees seemed to magically jump between the rear tire and the box blade....never thought that would happen!
I hear ya, it's hard enough keeping on eye on the FEL swing clearance.
 
/ Ballast Photos #53  
If you do much work in the woods, you don't want anything nearly that wide. I tried using a box blade as a counterweight when I was doing light work in the woods, and I got it hooked on trees, and stumps more times than I can recall. I only tried that because the ground was pretty soft, and I thought 1,000lbs less total weight might be better, but it wasn't worth the hassle. I went back to my steel CW, and had zero issues, other than working around soft spots.


Nope. Built for dirt work and hill sides, Low, Wide and Heavy.
 
/ Ballast Photos #54  
If you do much work in the woods, you don't want anything nearly that wide. I tried using a box blade as a counterweight when I was doing light work in the woods, and I got it hooked on trees, and stumps more times than I can recall. I only tried that because the ground was pretty soft, and I thought 1,000lbs less total weight might be better, but it wasn't worth the hassle. I went back to my steel CW, and had zero issues, other than working around soft spots.

The best ballast I have is my 7' blade. It is a pain in the woods.
 
/ Ballast Photos #56  
Ballast 012.jpgBallast 008.jpgBallast 009.jpgBallast 010.jpgBallast 011.jpg Closer to finished. Letting it cure just a little longer before I hack out the fork slot forms. I need to paint the rebar loops. Makes a world of difference with the back end planted on the ground.
 
/ Ballast Photos #57  
Looks good! Looks like the OSB forms came off pretty clean.
 
/ Ballast Photos #59  
herringchoker I envy you getting the smooth sides on your pour. Could I ask just exactly what you used to pour that block? I have used Quikrete brand concrete mix, but I always get a rough surface on the sides of the mold. I think it's because of the stones in the mix.
 
/ Ballast Photos #60  
herringchoker I envy you getting the smooth sides on your pour. Could I ask just exactly what you used to pour that block? I have used Quikrete brand concrete mix, but I always get a rough surface on the sides of the mold. I think it's because of the stones in the mix.

At the time I was driving a ready-mix concrete truck, so this was concrete left on the truck after a job. It had 3/4" stone in it.

Oiling the forms before pouring lets them come off nice and neat. It's important to work a rod or bar up and down in the mix to work the concrete into all the nooks and crannies while you are pouring. The secret to smooth sides is to tap the sides of the form with a hammer (or whatever you have handy) - this creates a vibration to fill the voids next to the form.
 
 

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