Backhoe Backhoe stabilizer pads installed

[IslandTractor]

They worked very well for me in sandy soil which is probably similar to what you have on MV. I never tried the filling bucket with rocks trick but I did dig the grapple teeth into the ground as an anchor which was not terribly effective. The Bigfoot pads made much more difference. Unfortunately, they did not fit my new backhoe so I am currently debating whether to get a new set or just make up some angle iron pieces to give me most of the function at way less cost.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Huh, I certainly can't see any harm caused, so I'll look into attaching angle iron as you mentioned.

The combination of rocks and foam filled tires probably adds enough weight for me that I haven't been experiencing the issue.

 

[ccdck20hst]

I put the big foot pads on my CK20 HST TLB about a month ago. Now when I use the backhoe I drag rocks or dirt to the tractor (or up in the air) instead of dragging the tractor to the rock or toward the hole. I routinley found myself dragging the tractor toward the work I as trying to do with the bucket before putting on the pads. The big foot pads are very sturdy and probably weight about 25 LBS each. These are a must from my view in the heavy rock hard soil here in northern Connecticut to effectively use the backhoe. Tractor on!

 

[caver]

My homebrew ones made a big difference. My only problem is the weight of the pad can make it tilt towards the tractor on uneven ground.
Something about digging with a backhoe,,, is just fun.

 

[JoelD]

Looking at backhoes is fun.

 

[RexB]

Those are good pads caver. For those that weld or not, 4"x12" channel iron has worked very well in rock and dirt. So far these haven't gotten clogged with stuff, prolly because of the open ends. Their overall 12"x12" is I think the same size as the Bigfoots . . .

 

[IslandTractor]

Those are good pads caver. For those that weld or not, 4"x12" channel iron has worked very well in rock and dirt. So far these haven't gotten clogged with stuff, prolly because of the open ends. Their overall 12"x12" is I think the same size as the Bigfoots . . .

Those channel iron pads look like they would work just as well as the BigFoot pads to keep the tractor from being pulled backwards but you'd need to weld a piece to close the ends of the channel to provide more resistance to lateral movement if you are swinging the hoe around left and right to dig. I'm thinking of doing the same thing

 

[JoelD]

What a great idea, I've got some of that stock at the house. I used it to build a flatbed frame for my 3/4 ton GMC Kiotihauler. I purchased for $15 per 10.5 foot length from a local shop that resells pallet racks. Great way to get affordable steel, new stock is crazy expensive.

 

[RexB]

Not yet IT, digging about 40-50deg to the left and right isn't enough to drag it. If I was digging 90deg off-axis I'd move the tractor, but if that's required for a particular job I can weld endplates on. The threaded bolts/nuts sticking out might help a little too. Dirt and 'stuff' doesn't get stuck in them much cuz of the open ends . . .

My channel was 1 1/2" deep. 2" or 3" would hold mo' betta' for your bigger tractor.

btw: Re the help you gave me for adding a claw onto my bucket and hyd remotes or diverter valve and hoses/connections: I appreciate it muchly. It doesn't look like all the parts can be had for $1200 now going by the quotes I got back. Shipping is a killer, I may be able to pick up the heavy parts on this summer's road trip. Steel-Anything is outrageous too! 3X the prices I'm used to, good thing I've got leftovers to make other stuff.

 

[crabjoe]

Hoe pads are easy enough to build and the price for ready made isn't to out of line, but why are street pads so expensive? I've heard they run around $300 for a set!

BTW, I found this thread where street pads were made from a piece of highway trash.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/19388-street-pads-backhoe.html

I like the his setup because they can be used in dirt with just a removal of a couple of pins.