Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE

   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #11  
Yep. There are many variations.

Smooth pads are to minimize damage. Not effective in hard digging.

Steel cleated pads are generally preferred. Some variations are more radical and do considerable damage to terrain while being most effective at reducing machine movement.

Rubber pads are generally used on improved surfaces and paving.

If you build cleated pads leave two edges open so they don't pack full so easily.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE
  • Thread Starter
#12  
No idea what I'm actually talking about but could see the benefit of only 2 sides to still allow for setting a board squarely under the feet for when you really dont want to tear up the yard or sink into soft terrain or blacktop
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #13  
I've never saw that method but it certainly would help.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #14  
I put bar lugs on my stabilizers and still drag the tractor backward sometime. I find that to really hold the tractor I have to go full dump on the FEL so the cutting edge is straight up and down so it digs into the dirt. The stabilizers can lift the TLB off the ground if needed for leveling. A level tractor makes for more accurate digging. On flat ground, I lower the stabs enough to take the pressure off the rear tires. I almost always have the front tires off the ground to put as much ground contact on the bucket as possible to hold it. I will start with the bucket fully curled so the back of the bucket is digging in, if it still slides the stabilizers, then I dump the bucket fully to engage the cutting edge and lift the front tires. Sometimes when the ground is sloped a lot, this is also required in order to level the tractor

Generally your OEM manual will direct the correct failsafe method to use. If your TLB is properly designed, all components should be strong enough to work in about any configuration that you can come up with.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I put bar lugs on my stabilizers and still drag the tractor backward sometime. I find that to really hold the tractor I have to go full dump on the FEL so the cutting edge is straight up and down so it digs into the dirt. The stabilizers can lift the TLB off the ground if needed for leveling. A level tractor makes for more accurate digging. On flat ground, I lower the stabs enough to take the pressure off the rear tires. I almost always have the front tires off the ground to put as much ground contact on the bucket as possible to hold it. I will start with the bucket fully curled so the back of the bucket is digging in, if it still slides the stabilizers, then I dump the bucket fully to engage the cutting edge and lift the front tires. Sometimes when the ground is sloped a lot, this is also required in order to level the tractor

Generally your OEM manual will direct the correct failsafe method to use. If your TLB is properly designed, all components should be strong enough to work in about any configuration that you can come up with.
Thanks, and just FYI manuals for RK tractors are ...lacking to put it very nicely.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #16  
On DIY stabilizer pads. If you google "backhoe stabilizer pads tractorbynet" you will find a ton of good ideas and excellent photos to go with them.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #17  
Backhoe diy pads. Two pieces of 2x4 screwed to each pad leaving the center space open between the two 2x4's works great and cheap, make the pads same length as the pad, also easy to replace if needed. Bob
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #18  
Since we're talking about hoes, outriggers and stability, this may be as good place to ask as any.

My outrigger feet are completely flat and smooth. This has so far allowed some sliding on grass and softer ground regardless of the amount of down pressure. I was looking for some sort of gripper teeth or claws to attach using the through holes in those plates, but so far I haven't found any. That got me wondering about just using a 2 inch or so bolt through each of the holes. That would give me 8 spikes or studs in each one to penetrate the ground.

Thoughts?

My 310 came with flat pads and it was useless. It would throw it all over the place with those pads. I bolted some 2” angle iron to the bottom and it was a huge improvement but I should have used bigger angle iron. I didn’t use channel iron despite the fact I already had some because I figured it would fill with dirt and be useless. I think the 8 spikes would be pretty useless. I think works great would be a real stretch for 2x4 pads. There’s too much surface area to get a good bite unless it’s mud.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #19  
Yep my C channel pads will sometimes pack with mud. A shake of the stabilizer will usually remedy that. I would not suggest a four sided edge because it would always be full and hard to clean out.
 
   / Backhoe operation - tractor tires off the ground, only the rear, only the front, NONE #20  
Just note that with the rear stabilizers down the footprint is much wider giving more stability.

Tour some construction sites and watch the backhoes at work.


Backhoe at work!
 
 
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