Grading B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade

   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #21  
<font color="blue"> </font> Killer_B <font color="blue"> </font> : Do you have to remove the front hanger bracket for your MMM to be able to install the "quick hitch" subframe? If so, how long does that take? Is your MMM the RCK60-24B?
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Hi Rusty,

No, you do not have to remove anything other than the deck itself. All the other MMM related stuff stays put. My deck is a 60 incher. I can't recall the model name and number.

When I first got the quick hitch, the only implement I had that used it was the snow blower. I decided to time myself just to see how long it took to hook everything up. With the tractor "naked" it took 6.5 minutes to hook up everything, including the quick hitch, the drive shaft that goes to it, the hoses, the chute crank and the blower itself. I did not rush anything, but worked steadily. The blade probably hooks up even quicker since there is no drive shaft or chute crank to mess with.

Attached is a photo of all that is needed to make the blower work. It really is a snap. The only thing that is even slightly strenuous is moving the quick hitch around the garage. It’s a real chunk.

KB
 

Attachments

  • 689484-blower and qh.JPG
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   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Here is a close up of the QH itself.
 

Attachments

  • 689487-quick hitch.jpg
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   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #24  
Thanks Killer, the building is 24x46 with 14 foot ceilings,13ft. door on one end and a 9 footer on the other.

Insulated as well with r-19 in the walls and 13 inches in the ceiling.

It doesn't get below 35 degrees in it during the winter without heat.

A good hiding place for sure. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I did not look into the electric chute rotator. Those things are for limp wristed long haired dope smoking hippies. )</font>

Hey!!!!!! I resemble that remark, except for the long hair and dope smoking!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

The blade will do well in snow until the point that you have a heavy wet snow that causes you to loose traction. I have seen where the tractor is going along well, when suddenly the load in front of the blade becomes too much for the tractor to push and suddenly the tractor is sideways across the driveway or off the driveway in a ditch. Pushing snow with a blade is as much an art as it is a skill, and like any other tractor implement, takes time to develop. When using the blade in dirt, don't set the valve to float. Also remove the blade shoes, because they are only to keep the blade elevated above a hard surface when plowing. Also keep in mind that it is a tractor, not a bulldozer. The blade use in dirt is going to take a lot of skill and the learning curve is quite steep. You need a special type of wrist action operating the valve, that only a limp wrist-ed hippie knows how to do. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Junkman,

I find myself entirely unable to level loose soil with the blade while moving forward. It just wants to dig right in, which makeds a nasty rut. In reverse it works much better.

What is the trick to making it work while moving forward? It can't be all in the wrist.

KB
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #27  
B,

Has that tractor ever been used in the dirt or only on a concrete driveway? It still looks like it was just dropped off by the dealer.

Good looking blade. I think the 7610 will have a hard time moving a foot of snow, but possible....depending on how heavy the snow is. I think you'll find that it pushes the front end and you'll loose control of the steering with or without chains...But, as you said, that's why you have a blower. I'll likely end up with a similar quick-attach blade for my machine. There are times when the blower is just too much.
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Jim,

Don't they make a (Curtis?) blade for the big honkin L39 that goes in place of the FEL bucket? I would think that would be an attractive option. Either way, with a blower on the back and a blade on the front, you'd be stylin and smilen.

Yea, I had it off the driveway once. But the tires got dirty so I put an end to that. But I did take the attached picture first. If you look real close you can even see a speck of dirt on the hood.

KB
 

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   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #29  
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif That's nice to see her workin' hard!


They do make a nice Curtis....dealer is right down the road. With that blade comes a honkin' price too. I've just got to let it sink in for a few months and it won't seem that expensive......
 
   / B7610 and B2765 A Front Blade #30  
Keep it up and don't allow it to go into float. Back blade until it is closer to level. I have never liked using a blade for leveling on a tractor, for all the reasons that you have experienced. A dozer is the tool of choice for ground leveling. It has enough weight to compact the ground that you are working and enough weight to move the earth that you need to move. A good bulldozer operator is worth his weight in gold. It is something that you have to develop a knack for doing and that takes time. Some never develop the talent required. The more that you do, the better you will become at it.
 

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