B6100 Adding Hydraulic Plow

[nostep]

I am going to add a hydraulic snow plow to my B6100. Is it correct to tap into the port under the seat (picture attached)? I know where to return the fluid, in the fill port. My question is, my machine doesn't have a valve on the plate containing what I am assuming is the pressure port. Will I need that?

I am also under the impression that I need the fluid that has already passed through (or just after) the 3-pt lift controls and was heading back to tank. Any links out there to give me some pointers?

 

[KubotainNH]

I'm pretty sure the plug to the left of the shifter is the return line. The lever under the seat controls the flow to the other plug near it. If you turn the lever it diverts it out the hole instead of to the 3ph. This is a one or the other deal. Another way to do it is via the hydraulic block up and forward of the brake pedal. The front pipe comes from the pump on the engine and heads back to the 3ph. My tractor has a loader and this block feeds it, then the loader valve sends the fluid back into it and to the 3PH. If you look you will see it has a cover on this block, the cover can be replaced to accept hydraulic hoses. Search my name and you will see some pictures of this block and how it's setup for a loader. It would make your plow hoses shorter but if you took the plow off you would have to put the original cover back on or feed the fluid right back in.

 

[nostep]

Thanks for the info. Mine doesn't actually have that valve, just a single pipe plug. Not sure if it's flow or return. The front block idea sounds good. If I ever get this project going, I'll put up some photos.

 

[KubotainNH]

Post some pics and we'll be sure to look at them.

 

[B2400]

The hydraulic block located just downstream from the pump would be the one to use. You will need to use a valve of the " Power Beyond" type to make this work and not damage the hydraulic system.

 

[nostep]

Wow, been a year already. I did finally get around to designing a snow plow mount. My Dad is building it right now. I'll post some pictures.

Anyway, anyone know the correct part number for a B6100 for that plate over the pump to divert the fluid to new valves?

Anyone know the cheapest place to get a control valve for up-down and tilt?

Anyone have pictures of what that plate looks like?

 

[KubotainNH]

Read through this thread on adding power steering. It will show you the block and there's p/n's I think. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/104139-p-s-b7100-7200-a.html

 

[nostep]

Thanks for that link because I think I just learned something important. I thought last year that what I was looking for was a replacement for the top of the gear pump which then provided two ports. From rereading the above link it looks like that was wrong. It appears that someone was talking about a cover plate for an existing inline hydraulic tap point, which I do not have. I guess I will have to refigure how to do this.

Pictures of the work so far. Tilt is done. going to work on the lift next. plow is a Moose Country Plow, $214 delivered to my local dealer.

 

[KubotainNH]

Looks good. As for the block, I thought they all came with it. It would be on the brake side. None of your pictures show the area but if you post one of the brake side of the tractor we can look for it.

 

[nostep]

It's not there. I'm resigned to the fact that I'll have to cut the tube. No big deal, I'll just use 12MM compression fittings to tie in. Might ask my Dad to make me a block. Not sure yet.

Still have to figure out a lift. Really not much room in front for a cylinder where the hood won't hit it (when being opened). Considering using a cable and some pulleys and putting the cylinder underneath. Also considering using the three point lift by running the cable to the back.

 

[nostep]

Painted frame and start of front (cable) lift. Pull on cable is about 75 - 80 pounds. Requires 12" of pull from 1/8" coated cable. I'm going to attempt a 3-pt lift. Requires a few more pulleys.

 

[KubotainNH]

I have a cable/pulley system on my ATV plow setup. By the looks of it you are using coated cable (although I may be wrong) so you will find that the coating will wear away on the pulleys which can be troublesome. Also, I have broken cables and had them pull out of double cable clamps. Just something to be aware of, there is a lot of pressure on the cable when pushing heavy snow. Having down pressure is always a good thing too. Theirs a few B's on this site with front plows, maybe some ideas on using a cylinder on the front.

 

[nostep]

There should be no load on the cable when plowing. 1/8" is good for about 340 lbs. I'm only using it to a static load of 100 lbs (due to the doubling pulley). I guess there is a higher load when trying to lift the snow to a higher pile :-(

I did finish the rear and it came out sweet. Pictures later. I can still go to 3/16" if I break the 1/8".

Thanks for the conversation.

 

[mcnitt]

The work looks as good as the photos. Very nice job. Keep those photos coming!

 

[nostep]

Photos of the rear end cable connection plus the front with the plow connected.

For the tilt, I'm going to use a small standalone electro-hyd pump. It will hang on the front bumper and be easy to remove. This way I can remove the whole thing easy for spring.

Thanks for the nice comments.

 

[nostep]

Last of the pics till it snows. Pics show the tilt electro-hydraulic pump mounted to the front.

 

[KubotainNH]

There should be no load on the cable when plowing. 1/8" is good for about 340 lbs. I'm only using it to a static load of 100 lbs (due to the doubling pulley). I guess there is a higher load when trying to lift the snow to a higher pile :-(

Well, that's when it was pulled on the most is when stacking or needing to have the plow up a bit to take a bite or hop over a driveway lip. On my ATV, which of course is lighter in the front, it would push hard enough to lift the front tires off the ground which meant trying to hold it at one height so I could steer. It's surprising how much force is actually on the plow pushing the blade down. Also, my driveway is gravel which may add to it. Yours looks great though, it will be good to see action pictures.

 

[zman007007]

Looks great, but I think one thing I would do different is I would hook your rear pulley to somewhere besides your top link. If it gets bent you will ending not be able to adjust it. You have plenty of metal to hook it to, on the drawbar, such as right below where the top link connects. Just mho. zman

 

[nostep]

Plow works great with the first big slow. No problems lifting, even with heavy wet snow. Discovered that the tip-over springs are no where big enough. Had to add a strap (see photos) for now. Also lost one plow tip-over hinge bolt. Forgot to tighten them. Good thing there's a box of spare bolts handy.

And yes, before you say it, the tractor's a bit big for a residential subdivision. But, I can clear the all my snow in about 5 minutes....

Pictures taken in 15F weather.

 

[KubotainNH]

That's big snow???

Looks good, perfect size is what works for you.