Comparison B3200 or L3200

[Tundra]

I'm having a hard time deciding on a new tractor. (size and brand) What I would like is a tractor that compares to my current Mitsubishi MT250D. It weighs around 2000# and has a 5' FEL. I have 20 acres where I live which I'm always moving dirt, getting firewood, and mowing 3 acres of grass. I also have 100 acres 10 miles away that I am improving for hunting and outdoor recreation. This includes pushing brush, creating foodplots, planting trees, ect... The land has some flat and some fairly steep slopes (250D makes me nervous). I would like to get FEL, BH, Bhog, and either MMM or 3pt FM. After I decide on size, then I think it's either Kubota or Mahindra. Also, my trailer is licenced for 5000#, so would it haul the "L" with implements or do I have to replace it too? Thanks in advance.

 

[CAgnoli]

I'd spring for the L myself, a few nice features Like position control and tilt wheel.... As for your trailer. I'm afraid I've got bad news. 5000 lbs isn't enough to carry either tractor with loaded tires, FEL, and an attachment on the 3pt. (likely that 5000 lbs rating doesn't include the weight if the trailer itself)

Any chance your Kubota dealer sells trailers too? I'd try and work a package deal. My dealer sells more trailers than tractors I think.

Last bit of advice. I'd stick with a rfm, taking the mid mount mowers off is a chore compared to just unhooking the rear mower.

 

[Verticaltrx]

The B3200 with a loader and backhoe is going to weigh right at 4000lbs. My guess is your trailer is rated to haul 3000-3500lbs load capacity, so you'd be over by a bit but might get away with it. The L3200 is going to be even heavier yet, around 5000lbs with loader/hoe, so that is way too much.


With that said, either would work fine, but the L3200 will be better at heavy loader work (due to the extra weight). Both use the same BH so not much difference there performance wise. The B3200 does have a more integrated mount for the BH with a swivel seat though. Power wise they are pretty close, both would be suitable for a 5' bush hog and 5-6' finish mower. I agree with not getting a MMM if you will be using the tractor for many other tasks than mowing. Bottom line is they are close in performance, with a slight edge to the L, but try them both and see how you like them.

 

[LD1]

The L is more tractor than the B. Bigger and heavier.

The B is probabally closer to the size you have now.

You really need to go test the two out see which would be the best fit for you based on what you currently have. And Test out the 3PH on the L. They are known to be jerky when trying to lift an implement slowly. You may be fine with it, or it may be a deal breaker

As to the trailer.......you say it "is licensed for 5000lbs"

Does that mean you can haul 5k, or is that the GVWR????

The L with loader and BH is going to be right at 5k I would guess. So if your trailer can haul 5k, then you are good. If your trailer is a 5k GVWR, I am afraid you may need to step up to a 7k trailer.

Mahindras are typically heavier than the kubotas, so keep that in mind when deciding. Heavier can be good or bad, just depends on what you want.

 

[Tundra]

The trailer is 5000 GVWR. Also, I was wondering if there are any "special" features between the two tractors that you guys think are important. I've read about remote or extra hydraulics? Not sure what that is for.

 

[namesray]

I'm having a hard time deciding on a new tractor. (size and brand) What I would like is a tractor that compares to my current Mitsubishi MT250D. It weighs around 2000# and has a 5' FEL. I have 20 acres where I live which I'm always moving dirt, getting firewood, and mowing 3 acres of grass. I also have 100 acres 10 miles away that I am improving for hunting and outdoor recreation. This includes pushing brush, creating foodplots, planting trees, ect... The land has some flat and some fairly steep slopes (250D makes me nervous). I would like to get FEL, BH, Bhog, and either MMM or 3pt FM. After I decide on size, then I think it's either Kubota or Mahindra. Also, my trailer is licenced for 5000#, so would it haul the "L" with implements or do I have to replace it too? Thanks in advance.

i was faced with a simular decision you have now. looked at both models. i do everything you mentioned you want to do with my b7800 (very simular to b3200, i am looking at getting a b3300). for your decision making purposes, i also live in pa and operate mine on very steep slopes (you have to be careful) and i do tons of firewood winching/skidding, bush hog many acres, move tons of dirt/stone, and plow many dirveways each winter (small side business). i trailer mine to different firewood/mowing sites with my 7000lb rated tandem axel trailer. with implements on too. tows pretty good. the L would be pushing it, and defintly pushing it on your 5000lb rated trailer. the weight between the two= b3200=2600lb with fel and loaded tires. L3200 around 3200lbs-3700lbs with fel and loaded tires. the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak down over 20 minutes or so (not bad, but for some can get annoying), the L has poistion control 3ph which maintains height while operating, but i have heard the XX00 series can be jerky at times. the b has a mid pto, the L will not. the b has a 4 cylinder engine, the L has a 3 cylinder engine. these are the major differences that come to my mind at this time.

mahindra makes good tractors, but are heavier in weight. i get along fine with my b7800 (2600lbs with fel/loaded tires) with what i do. i have also pushed brush/piled and poped out small shrubs/thorn trees (up to around 4"diameter trunk) the L would push/pull more just because of its extra weight. but might not work as well lawn mowing and such. like i say i do get along with my b , and yes there is times i could have used a heavier tractor to pull more, but that is not too often compared to the times i like the lighter weight with what i do. lots of times it is more technique then brute force.

i have not run a back hoe on mine, but from my experience with kubota small mini exevators, and watching my friend on his bx series back hoe, i do not think you will have any problems digging with either the b series back hoe or the L series.

LD1 is right. both will work for you, but you should test them all out and see what one you like best with what you have to work with.

as for the mmm or rear finish mower, in your case, i would go with the rear finish mower. easier maintenance (can lift up on 3ph to get to work on, be sure to safty prop it up) and it is easier to take on/off. and if you don't see a need for the mid pto (mmm or front snow blower) then i would look at a b3300su. same tractor as b3200 but no mid pto (saves you around $1,000) and can be fitted with the larger r-4 industrial tires that will gain you about 200 lbs over the b3200 if you fluid fill them. and which ever tractor you do get, i suggest you get the tires loaded.

as for the remotes, i believe they do not come standard on either tractor, but can be added for between $600-$1000. they are for running implements that require hydraulic fluid to run (ex: wood splitter, tilt blades on 3ph back blades, and such). could potentially do the same things off your loader valve, but would have to disconnect the hoses off loader or take loader off. depending on how much you see a need for this, they can be a good idea. also they can be added at any time later on if you feel the need for them. good luck and enjoy shopping around.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Had a B7800 MMM with rear finish mower for 3 years which I traded to a L3240HST+ for a few months which I traded to a B3200. My property is on a hillside and the L was to scary for me sitting so high off the ground. Every time one wheel would go over a limb or rock or one wheel go in a hole I felt like I was turning over. Just my experience. L was almost twice as heavy as the Bs and I disliked trailering it and knew for sure it waas back there. Have a dual axle 3500lbs per axle trailer and I think I was stretching my limits with the L3240 FEL and trailer weight.

 

[L2500GST]

I would recommend you getting the lowest m-series tractor. Save you a lot of time!

 

[Tundra]

Namesway, what do you mean by "the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak "? Also, if I would go with a rear mower, does anyone know if removing the backhoe is as easy as the dealer said when I talked to him over the phone? IS there any other differences with the B3300su cause for $1000 it sounds like a good deal.
I know exactly what you're talking about working on a hillside. I feel I sit up high on my tractor and the slope is old strip mined land that has hidden rocks and holes everywhere. I can only run up and down. Sideways just doesn't feel right although I may not even be close to tipping.
Thanks for everything so far.

 

[kuboman]

Namesway, what do you mean by "the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak "? Also, if I would go with a rear mower, does anyone know if removing the backhoe is as easy as the dealer said when I talked to him over the phone? IS there any other differences with the B3300su cause for $1000 it sounds like a good deal.
I know exactly what you're talking about working on a hillside. I feel I sit up high on my tractor and the slope is old strip mined land that has hidden rocks and holes everywhere. I can only run up and down. Sideways just doesn't feel right although I may not even be close to tipping.
Thanks for everything so far.

I doubt there is any height difference between the B3300 with the big tires and the L. I think in the end you would be better off with the L just because it is more machine. Then of course the B has a flatter platform which is why I kept my B3200 instead of going to the L3200/3800.:thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Namesway, what do you mean by "the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak "? Also, if I would go with a rear mower, does anyone know if removing the backhoe is as easy as the dealer said when I talked to him over the phone? IS there any other differences with the B3300su cause for $1000 it sounds like a good deal.
I know exactly what you're talking about working on a hillside. I feel I sit up high on my tractor and the slope is old strip mined land that has hidden rocks and holes everywhere. I can only run up and down. Sideways just doesn't feel right although I may not even be close to tipping.
Thanks for everything so far.

I can help with this. The B series have what is know as 1/4 inching 3point valve. In other words the control is normally in the center, and you move it in one direction for up and another for down, but it does not have any feedback mechanism to keep the 3pt at any one position. You set it where you want it, but it will eventually leak down a little. (no valve or cylinder is perfect) There is nothing but you to bump up the implement every once in a while (15 or 20 minutes when they are new) in 1/4 inch increments if you just quickly bump it. This works ok, and is smooth, but some find it annoying to have to constantly adjust for instance a rotary cutter when mowing for hours. Position control on the other hand has a feeback mechanism that know where the 3pt is set at any given time. The lever adjust up and down and does not have a center neutral position, and the 3pt follows the lever. The ones on the "standard" L series, some have a bit of a jerk to them when trying to move the lever slowly up. The Grand L series are silky smooth up and down. Position control will always stay right where you set it, because as it leaks down slowly, it will always reposition it self automaticly due to the feedback mechanism, so as you mow that field for hours it will stay that way. Now in reality you are going to raise and lower the cutter some anyway to avoid obstacles, but with the position control you can set a little stop on the arc of the control lever, and go back to the exact same height, on the 1/4 inching you must look back at the cutter and set it where you want it through trial and error.. Either system works, it is just up to you how you want it to work.

James K0UA

 

[archerynut]

Namesway, what do you mean by "the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak "? Also, if I would go with a rear mower, does anyone know if removing the backhoe is as easy as the dealer said when I talked to him over the phone? IS there any other differences with the B3300su cause for $1000 it sounds like a good deal.
I know exactly what you're talking about working on a hillside. I feel I sit up high on my tractor and the slope is old strip mined land that has hidden rocks and holes everywhere. I can only run up and down. Sideways just doesn't feel right although I may not even be close to tipping.
Thanks for everything so far.

Removing and reinstalling 3ph is very easy once you get used to it. I put my BH on dollies to move it around the garage. I would say after a couple of times it should take less than 10 minutes.

 

[namesray]

Namesway, what do you mean by "the b has a 1/4" 3ph valve=silky smooth, but will very slowly leak "? Also, if I would go with a rear mower, does anyone know if removing the backhoe is as easy as the dealer said when I talked to him over the phone? IS there any other differences with the B3300su cause for $1000 it sounds like a good deal.
I know exactly what you're talking about working on a hillside. I feel I sit up high on my tractor and the slope is old strip mined land that has hidden rocks and holes everywhere. I can only run up and down. Sideways just doesn't feel right although I may not even be close to tipping.
Thanks for everything so far.

the 1/4" valve 3ph as they call it, is a style of control for the 3ph height. i think it is a hydraulic type lift, simular to a loader up/down lift mechanism. any way, say if you were bush hogging with one, you lift the 3ph (3 point hitch) to set your height of cut. it will stay in place pretty good, but the height of the 3ph/bushhog will slowly settle towards the ground, eventually leading to the bushog scalping the ground/hitting. to avoid this you have to keep an eye on how close it is getting to the ground and just remember to move the 1/4" lever up to raise it back up to where you want it=it will slowly leak down. (not leaking hydraulic fluid, but just drift down through the seals or so). not damaging, all 1/4" valve 3ph will do this, even at brand new. i have to remember to bump my lever about every 20 minutes or so while i am bushhogging to keep the cut height consistent. like i said, it doesn't bother me too much, but some people it might. (it might drop 4" in 20 minutes with my bush hog on it, drops quicker with more weight on it. there is a knob below the seat that you can "close" off the gravity down flow speed and helps slow the down drift, an open/close knob like a garden hose on/off).

the L series has "poisition control" 3ph which has a system which "remembers" where it is supposed to be and maintains height. so you could go bushhogging and set the height once and it would stay there all day. costs more too, but is nice. some of the xx00 series 3ph poisition control have been known to be jerky when you try to do fine tune lift adjustments. i have never experienced this, but have heard a lot about it.

the back hoes can be a pain to remove/hook up until you get a procedure down, even then, i wouldn't want to do it all the time. the thing with a mid mount mower is that it can get to be a pain too, to take off and put on. also while it is on, it hinders you when you want to travel over rough terrain with bumps/mounds to go over=can bottom out easily. the mmm can mow closer to obstacles, such as trees/such due to it being in the middle pivot of the mower, as the rear finish mower pull away from the obstacle you want to mow around as you steer around the obstacle. between the 2, it is give and take. you decide how you would like to mow. in my opinion a mmm will out mow a rear finish mower due to manuverability, but is harder to work on and put on off in my opinion.

the b3300su is very much the same tractor as the b3200. b 3300su has 1 more hp, can put larger tires on it, but does not have mid pto. cruise is also an option and does not come standard on the b3300su. if you don't need the mid pto, i think the b3300su would be the better choice. lots of people get a mid pto with their tractor and never use it. some do. either way a mid pto will cost about $1000 more. do you need it or ever forsee a use for it? (mid mount mower, or front mount snowblower???)

when you operate on hills with any of these tractors, i strongly suggest putting it in 4wd. leaving it in 2wd, the tractor can come out from under itself, or lose grip and just start slidding down hill, especially when driving down hill. having it in 4wd gives you an extra axel with gears gripping the ground and greatly limits how easily it can take off out from under you.

 

[easygo]

It all depends how much work you hope to accomplish in a year and how bad do you want to keep your 3 acre lawn smooth. The B will do all the work you are describing but will be a bit slower when it comes to brute force. ie: moving dirt, hauling logs, rocks and the like. However the L will be much harsher on your lawn. That said I have a B7800 (same size as the B3200) and I yarded out 15 full cords of wood this winter and was kind of disappointed how fast it got done. Firewood cutting is among my favorite winter sports.