B2320 I want to increase the lift capability
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TMGT
Elite Member
I have a b2620 with the same manuals, some of the writing is generic between the models, the way I read that is the forks are an option on the la504, not that it was an option for the tractor.
I've found the manuals are lacking a bit in translation at times and there can be references to equipment that's not for your tractor in the manual.
As for the relief adjustment, step one is get a 3-4000 psi gauge, and some fittings so you can attach it to one of the lines for the loader (I can't remember the exact fittings needed) or buy the kit from someone, I believe bxpanded sells one that'll work.
The relief is located on the loader valve under the right side of the floor pan, there is a hex nut cap that hangs down that needs to be removed and the relieve valve, spring and shims will be inside.
You will lose a little fluid and in my case the valve decided to slide out shortly after I removed the cap so I would suggest a catch pan and somthing like a paint filter in case any of the shims try to escape (happened to me).
You can use washers or you can buy shims from mcmastercarr, kubota, or bxpanded I believe. I made my own on my lathe.
I don't have any pictures but can try to take some next time I have the tractor out. There is some good info online and a chart for what thickness shims will increase the pressure a certain amount.
I finally adjusted mine last year, was a little low but not much, I searched on the subject and it was pretty straightforward, but I also have some background in mechanics and hydraulics.
I've found the manuals are lacking a bit in translation at times and there can be references to equipment that's not for your tractor in the manual.
As for the relief adjustment, step one is get a 3-4000 psi gauge, and some fittings so you can attach it to one of the lines for the loader (I can't remember the exact fittings needed) or buy the kit from someone, I believe bxpanded sells one that'll work.
The relief is located on the loader valve under the right side of the floor pan, there is a hex nut cap that hangs down that needs to be removed and the relieve valve, spring and shims will be inside.
You will lose a little fluid and in my case the valve decided to slide out shortly after I removed the cap so I would suggest a catch pan and somthing like a paint filter in case any of the shims try to escape (happened to me).
You can use washers or you can buy shims from mcmastercarr, kubota, or bxpanded I believe. I made my own on my lathe.
I don't have any pictures but can try to take some next time I have the tractor out. There is some good info online and a chart for what thickness shims will increase the pressure a certain amount.
I finally adjusted mine last year, was a little low but not much, I searched on the subject and it was pretty straightforward, but I also have some background in mechanics and hydraulics.
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
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- SW Indiana
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- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Even if you get more lift from your loader, you may not like the result:
This L4330 experience is anecdotal but a neighbor wanted me to move some pallets of cement blocks to the other side of his reasonably smooth yard. My tractor wouldn't pick up a full pallet so we took a block or two off the pallet at a time until the loader could lift it. In other words, we were at the exact limit of the loader, and probably higher than their published specifications.
For ballast, I had a 6 ft rotary cutter on the back, my heaviest and longest implement. Still, driving those partial pallets across his yard was squirrelly. Turning made it even worse. Rough ground would have made us off load more block.
My theory- the rear cutter addressed mostly front to back weight distribution, but didn't affect side to side stability so much. Side to side oscillation from bare ground, or even from the coarse tire tread on pavement, is unavoidable. And the side to side pivot on the from axle setup means that until the tractor tips enough to hit the pivot stop, you're sitting on a tricycle.
So, short story long, the manufacturers have a reason for their designs, other than saving a few bucks on "undersized" cylinders.
This L4330 experience is anecdotal but a neighbor wanted me to move some pallets of cement blocks to the other side of his reasonably smooth yard. My tractor wouldn't pick up a full pallet so we took a block or two off the pallet at a time until the loader could lift it. In other words, we were at the exact limit of the loader, and probably higher than their published specifications.
For ballast, I had a 6 ft rotary cutter on the back, my heaviest and longest implement. Still, driving those partial pallets across his yard was squirrelly. Turning made it even worse. Rough ground would have made us off load more block.
My theory- the rear cutter addressed mostly front to back weight distribution, but didn't affect side to side stability so much. Side to side oscillation from bare ground, or even from the coarse tire tread on pavement, is unavoidable. And the side to side pivot on the from axle setup means that until the tractor tips enough to hit the pivot stop, you're sitting on a tricycle.
So, short story long, the manufacturers have a reason for their designs, other than saving a few bucks on "undersized" cylinders.
rswyan
Super Star Member
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- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
To make it perfectly clear to the OP what you meant, you are suggesting getting:
1. a 0 - 3000 psi gauge, or
2. a 0 - 4000 psi gauge
Correct ?
rswyan
Super Star Member
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- Northeast Ohio
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- Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
Regarding shims:
Just buy the correct shims from Kubota, they are cheap.
$10 should get you an assortment of 0.1, 0.2, and 0.4 shims ...
Just buy the correct shims from Kubota, they are cheap.
$10 should get you an assortment of 0.1, 0.2, and 0.4 shims ...
TMGT
Elite Member
Correct, working off my phone, sometimes my brain works faster then my fingers.
Kubotas are great even if I break it and/or hurt myself. B2320 has exceeded it's capabilities including handling a homemade 17 foot tall crane built onto a 3-point carry-all attachment weighing about 700 pounds to raise 900 pounds of timbers for a timber frame porch and lifting the 400 pound 28 foot trusses over the 11 foot tall timber frame. The 3-point still operated lifting to its max elevation while lifting these loads. No complaints about the machines, just the salesmanship.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Interesting read.
Get a gauge and check pressure.
Dont exceed 10% above factory spec. Noticeable difference will depend on what the pressure is currently.
Larger cylinders.....dont do it. On older ag equipment, you could get away with more as they were overbuilt by a larger margin. This modern stuff, especially in the smaller tractors, are designed so there isnt a pound of steel where it isnt needed. They are engineered to be light, while still being strong enough. Not as much room for error.
As already mentioned, the lift spec is to full height. The arc that the loader arms travel in make it do lift capacity diminishes the higher you go. So down low, I have no doubt you lifted close to double the spec. I have done so on mine as well. Dont mean its underrated or anything. just how things work. So your loader can "spec" at 660 to max height, means it can lift ~1000# at ground level. You go jacking with cylinders so you can lift more, like 1000# to full height......thats probably not gonna break anything. But it does mean that you can now lift maybe 1800# at ground level. And THAT will break things.
Get a gauge and check pressure.
Dont exceed 10% above factory spec. Noticeable difference will depend on what the pressure is currently.
Larger cylinders.....dont do it. On older ag equipment, you could get away with more as they were overbuilt by a larger margin. This modern stuff, especially in the smaller tractors, are designed so there isnt a pound of steel where it isnt needed. They are engineered to be light, while still being strong enough. Not as much room for error.
As already mentioned, the lift spec is to full height. The arc that the loader arms travel in make it do lift capacity diminishes the higher you go. So down low, I have no doubt you lifted close to double the spec. I have done so on mine as well. Dont mean its underrated or anything. just how things work. So your loader can "spec" at 660 to max height, means it can lift ~1000# at ground level. You go jacking with cylinders so you can lift more, like 1000# to full height......thats probably not gonna break anything. But it does mean that you can now lift maybe 1800# at ground level. And THAT will break things.
