b series options

[GPintheMitten]

Regarding ssqa. My understanding is that it is not a normal option for the B 2x20s but I think one or two people on tbn have posted about getting the ssqa for another b series put on a b2x20.

 

[teg]

You need something to keep the drawbar from twisting if you use it to tow a trailer, Like this:

Tractor Draw Bar Gooseneck Stabilizer for Category 1 - Ballard Fabrication

That's from a quick google search, they used to sell one on this site but I could not find it... They have other stabilizers on that site, too.

My opinion for ballast, but another (useful) implement and use that for weight.

 

[Baby Grand]

I use a 3pt trailer hitch attachment a lot - one thing you need to be aware of when using it:
Since your 3 point hitch cannot apply down force, any tendency of the trailer tongue to lift will not be resisted.
This may sound trivial, but if you happen to be backing up while making a turn and the rear of your trailer should happen to start digging into a snowbank, the rear of the trailer will squat down, lifting the tongue & 3pt until the 3pt runs out of travel.

At this point the tractor will be in a very in-ter-est-ing equilibrium state, but only for an instant.
The various forces in play, to wit, traction, power, resistance of the trailer to roll back further, angle of the trailer to the tractor, both as viewed from above & from the side, center of gravity of the trailer and of the tractor, travel speed, all of these will all act in concert with the speed and judgment of the operator's brain to determine if the trailer jackknifes into the tractor, or continues to lift and push the tractor over onto it's side. Don't ask how I know this.

Another scenario: you are hauling firewood out of the woods. It has been cut to 16" length & you are bringing it to an area where you do the splitting. You start up a steep incline & the round logettes roll to the back of the trailer, lifting the tongue and removing some of the weight from the rear axle - not a lot, just enough to lose traction, and if you happen to have forgotten to put the tractor in 4wd, you suddenly realize that you have lost your braking ability. I leave the outcome of this scenario to your imagination. Again, please don't ask.

For the reasons listed, whenever using the tractor to move a trailer, I have learned to:

1) Secure the 3 point hitch to the fixed drawbar, using the method shown, to ensure that the tongue cannot lift beyond where I think it should.



2) Secure the load to the trailer to ensure that the CG cannot move to a location aft of the rear axle.

-Jim

 

[Tractorrr]

You can put a trailer ball on the draw bar to trailer things. I have done it that way to pull a small boat, trailer for collecting brush and sticks/firewood. I don't see
Much advantage to having a 3 pt hitch mounted ball.

 

[teg]

...I don't see Much advantage to having a 3 pt hitch mounted ball.

If I'm moving a trailer around on flat ground several times; I don't get off the tractor to lower the jack (or latch the ball tight). I put the ball under the receiver, raise the 3ph until the jack is off the ground, move the trailer to the new location, drop the 3ph until the trailer is resting on it's on jack in the new location. Drive away.

Wife puts out mulch, several locations which would mean getting on and off, raising and lowering the jack... (or I could hook it up once and let her have the tractor for the whole weekend) Different needs for different people. He talked about having a few trailers, I would not want to have to mow around them.

 

[My Hoe]

I use a 3pt trailer hitch attachment a lot - one thing you need to be aware of when using it:
Since your 3 point hitch cannot apply down force, any tendency of the trailer tongue to lift will not be resisted.
This may sound trivial, but if you happen to be backing up while making a turn and the rear of your trailer should happen to start digging into a snowbank, the rear of the trailer will squat down, lifting the tongue & 3pt until the 3pt runs out of travel.

At this point the tractor will be in a very in-ter-est-ing equilibrium state, but only for an instant.
The various forces in play, to wit, traction, power, resistance of the trailer to roll back further, angle of the trailer to the tractor, both as viewed from above & from the side, center of gravity of the trailer and of the tractor, travel speed, all of these will all act in concert with the speed and judgment of the operator's brain to determine if the trailer jackknifes into the tractor, or continues to lift and push the tractor over onto it's side. Don't ask how I know this.

Another scenario: you are hauling firewood out of the woods. It has been cut to 16" length & you are bringing it to an area where you do the splitting. You start up a steep incline & the round logettes roll to the back of the trailer, lifting the tongue and removing some of the weight from the rear axle - not a lot, just enough to lose traction, and if you happen to have forgotten to put the tractor in 4wd, you suddenly realize that you have lost your braking ability. I leave the outcome of this scenario to your imagination. Again, please don't ask.

For the reasons listed, I have learned to:

1) Secure the 3 point hitch to the fixed drawbar, using the method shown, to ensure that the tongue cannot lift beyond where I think it should, whenever using the tractor to move a trailer:

View attachment 416523

2) Secure the load to the trailer to ensure that the CG cannot move to a location aft of the rear axle.

-Jim

Jim,

Thanks for honestly sharing your "school of hard knocks" experiences. I must admit I would never have envisioned those scenarios on my own, but can clearly see how they could happen, once you described them.

I know "they" say "a picture is worth a thousand words," but I don't have any experience with 3-point hitches, and the picture you posted is so small that I am unable to "dope out" what it is you did that prevents the 3-point from rising, as you described.

Do you have any way of posting a bigger pic and/or (preferably both) explaining how what you did prevents the hiking up of the 3-point, under the conditions described? (Or maybe someone else has a similar setup and/or could explain it for us "3-point-challeged guys?") LOL

Thanks much,

My Hoe

 

[teg]

..."they" say "a picture is worth a thousand words,"...

A safety chain like this one from the internet:

View attachment 416525

 

[Baby Grand]

My Hoe -
Will do. I grabbed that photo off the internets.
I took the original photo, but it's not loaded on this machine, so finding a high res copy may take a little while.
And both of the failure modes that I described came as complete surprises to me, so don't feel alone in not foreseeing them as possibilities.
It's funny, how seemingly very simple systems can suddenly become much more complicated when you use them.
-Jim

p.s. Found it - same idea as teg posted:

 

[MattEffinCameron]

Thanks for all the great info! especially about trailering with the 3ph!

Bucket hooks are also a great idea.

With regards to the quick attach...I was reading here on the forums that kubota part number B1658 is the quick attach designed for the LA504, but that it fits the LA364 just fine...have any of you tried this?

 

[s219]

Thanks for all the great info! especially about trailering with the 3ph!

Bucket hooks are also a great idea.

With regards to the quick attach...I was reading here on the forums that kubota part number B1658 is the quick attach designed for the LA504, but that it fits the LA364 just fine...have any of you tried this?

I believe some people have done this. If I remember right, the QA was from a B3200 loader.