b series options

[MattEffinCameron]

so I think I am getting a b2920...even though it is used it is coming from a dealer so I am thinking about asking them to throw some extras on it depending on price...looking for feedback on how to set it up.

1. For lighting, I know people recommend getting the upgraded alternator...but is that needed if I add LED light bars as opposed to halogen?

2. I have some interest in a quick attach...but mostly to be able to easily swap back and forth between a plow and bucket (or possibly light material bucket) for snow removal....but I am concerned about the SSQA (which I believe is the only quick attach that will allow me to pop a plow on) being so heavy that it significantly reduces the lift capability of the already somewhat limited la364. Your thoughts/experiences?

3. I will be mowing without the FEL a lot of the time so I am not planning on loading the tires, which I believe means I need some kind of counterweight for when I am using the FEL....is the Kubota Ballast Box the best option? do you just fill it with sand or whatever you have around?

4. Is a draw bar what I would need to be able to tow a trailer?

any other thoughts?

 

[GPintheMitten]

LEDs won't require the alt upgrade.

You will want counterweight for fel work. I had the rears loaded with rim guard and mowed. it's also helpful for snow clearing. Many have built there own ballast for the three point but many have also bought the factory option.

explain more about your trailering needs.

 

[MattEffinCameron]

no real trailering needs...just have a boat, some jet skis, and a small landscaping trailer and imagine it might be useful to be able to move them around or something with the tractor at some point so I figured i would add that in there

 

[GPintheMitten]

My B2620 came with a draw bar but I haven't used it much. I don't know if you could put a ball on it or not.

Some people put a receiver hitch on the loader to move trailers. And you can get something to go one the three point as well.

I don't have much knowledge about going with quick attach but others will probably post up.

 

[s219]

The 2920 comes with a drawbar. However, if you will be moving trailers frequently, I'd suggest getting a hitch receiver mount for the 3-pt hitch. You slide a standard 2" drawbar in (can be the one off your car/truck). Then you can just back up to a trailer, lift the 3-pt to hitch up, lock the hitch, and drive away. Very convenient and easy to use.

 

[tk tom]

I don't think you can get the SSQA on the 20 series, you're looking at pin-on attachments for that tractor. The new 50 series has it, as well as the new 01 series that is/isn't out yet depending on where you look.

For moving trailers, definitely go with a 3pt setup - back up to trailer and lift it right up. Depending on your area and how far you are moving the trailer, you may not have to get off the tractor to latch anything. Drawbar you're at least getting off to lower the trailer onto the ball and going from there.

I have a plow for my 2650 that I fabbed up for the SSQA mount. It's super slick to swap back and forth, but I really should have found a plow with a trip edge I have to take it real slow as every time it catches, there's no give in the setup. It works ok, the geometry of it makes it less efficient in my opinion than a frame mount plow such as the Kubota version on the quick hitch. The lift capacity of the smaller tractors makes it difficult to hook a plow up to the loader that allows float and articulation with the ground (loader doesn't dip left or right). That setup puts the plow further out in front of the loader, reducing capacity.

They are impressive little tractors, but their limits can be found easily.

And as far as counterweight is concerned - I have the Kubota rear ballast filled and a couple of concrete blocks on top of it, and the tires filled.... And I still feel a little light in the rear with a good lift. Have even lifted a rear tire off the ground with a bucket curl trying to pick away at a snowbank. All things being relative, you're going to want a substantial counterweight for loader work if you aren't filling the tires.

 

[AStanton]

Get the dealer to weld some utility hooks on the bucket. They are indispensable.

 

[DHD]

so I think I am getting a b2920...even though it is used it is coming from a dealer so I am thinking about asking them to throw some extras on it depending on price...looking for feedback on how to set it up.

1. For lighting, I know people recommend getting the upgraded alternator...but is that needed if I add LED light bars as opposed to halogen?

2. I have some interest in a quick attach...but mostly to be able to easily swap back and forth between a plow and bucket (or possibly light material bucket) for snow removal....but I am concerned about the SSQA (which I believe is the only quick attach that will allow me to pop a plow on) being so heavy that it significantly reduces the lift capability of the already somewhat limited la364. Your thoughts/experiences?

3. I will be mowing without the FEL a lot of the time so I am not planning on loading the tires, which I believe means I need some kind of counterweight for when I am using the FEL....is the Kubota Ballast Box the best option? do you just fill it with sand or whatever you have around?

4. Is a draw bar what I would need to be able to tow a trailer?

any other thoughts?

I have a 2005 B7800.
I did not upgrade to an alternator, but did replace the headlight bulbs with led bulbs and have two forward facing and two rearward facing led floods mounted on my Curtis cab. Light are really bright and have had no issues with the charging system and I still have the original battery since 2005. To remove just my bucket, I just remove two pins. (Have a pinned quick release adapter)

I have a FEL and did not load any of my R4 tires, if I'm doing FEL tasks I either have my RM snow blower, or RM six foot mower, or 7 ft. rear blade mount on my 3 pt.

I chose not to load my tires, so my tractor would be less heavy for mowing

good luck

 

[tk tom]

Yes, bucket hooks are a must. I didn't realize until recently that they didn't come standard on all buckets! Dad's BX had one as well as my B2650. A neighbor has a Deere 2520 sans hooks, and I've seen a few at the Kubota dealer recently that also were bare.

They're easy enough to weld on and paint if the dealer wants an arm and a leg for them - but I'd imagine it would be a quick cheap deal as people must ask for it all the time on bare buckets. I'd like to find a place to stick one on a backhoe as well.

 

[Paul Thornton]

You can move trailers with one of these. This one is home made but they are very reasonable to buy.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Regarding ssqa. My understanding is that it is not a normal option for the B 2x20s but I think one or two people on tbn have posted about getting the ssqa for another b series put on a b2x20.

 

[teg]

You need something to keep the drawbar from twisting if you use it to tow a trailer, Like this:

Tractor Draw Bar Gooseneck Stabilizer for Category 1 - Ballard Fabrication

That's from a quick google search, they used to sell one on this site but I could not find it... They have other stabilizers on that site, too.

My opinion for ballast, but another (useful) implement and use that for weight.

 

[Baby Grand]

I use a 3pt trailer hitch attachment a lot - one thing you need to be aware of when using it:
Since your 3 point hitch cannot apply down force, any tendency of the trailer tongue to lift will not be resisted.
This may sound trivial, but if you happen to be backing up while making a turn and the rear of your trailer should happen to start digging into a snowbank, the rear of the trailer will squat down, lifting the tongue & 3pt until the 3pt runs out of travel.

At this point the tractor will be in a very in-ter-est-ing equilibrium state, but only for an instant.
The various forces in play, to wit, traction, power, resistance of the trailer to roll back further, angle of the trailer to the tractor, both as viewed from above & from the side, center of gravity of the trailer and of the tractor, travel speed, all of these will all act in concert with the speed and judgment of the operator's brain to determine if the trailer jackknifes into the tractor, or continues to lift and push the tractor over onto it's side. Don't ask how I know this.

Another scenario: you are hauling firewood out of the woods. It has been cut to 16" length & you are bringing it to an area where you do the splitting. You start up a steep incline & the round logettes roll to the back of the trailer, lifting the tongue and removing some of the weight from the rear axle - not a lot, just enough to lose traction, and if you happen to have forgotten to put the tractor in 4wd, you suddenly realize that you have lost your braking ability. I leave the outcome of this scenario to your imagination. Again, please don't ask.

For the reasons listed, whenever using the tractor to move a trailer, I have learned to:

1) Secure the 3 point hitch to the fixed drawbar, using the method shown, to ensure that the tongue cannot lift beyond where I think it should.



2) Secure the load to the trailer to ensure that the CG cannot move to a location aft of the rear axle.

-Jim

 

[Tractorrr]

You can put a trailer ball on the draw bar to trailer things. I have done it that way to pull a small boat, trailer for collecting brush and sticks/firewood. I don't see
Much advantage to having a 3 pt hitch mounted ball.

 

[teg]

...I don't see Much advantage to having a 3 pt hitch mounted ball.

If I'm moving a trailer around on flat ground several times; I don't get off the tractor to lower the jack (or latch the ball tight). I put the ball under the receiver, raise the 3ph until the jack is off the ground, move the trailer to the new location, drop the 3ph until the trailer is resting on it's on jack in the new location. Drive away.

Wife puts out mulch, several locations which would mean getting on and off, raising and lowering the jack... (or I could hook it up once and let her have the tractor for the whole weekend) Different needs for different people. He talked about having a few trailers, I would not want to have to mow around them.

 

[My Hoe]

I use a 3pt trailer hitch attachment a lot - one thing you need to be aware of when using it:
Since your 3 point hitch cannot apply down force, any tendency of the trailer tongue to lift will not be resisted.
This may sound trivial, but if you happen to be backing up while making a turn and the rear of your trailer should happen to start digging into a snowbank, the rear of the trailer will squat down, lifting the tongue & 3pt until the 3pt runs out of travel.

At this point the tractor will be in a very in-ter-est-ing equilibrium state, but only for an instant.
The various forces in play, to wit, traction, power, resistance of the trailer to roll back further, angle of the trailer to the tractor, both as viewed from above & from the side, center of gravity of the trailer and of the tractor, travel speed, all of these will all act in concert with the speed and judgment of the operator's brain to determine if the trailer jackknifes into the tractor, or continues to lift and push the tractor over onto it's side. Don't ask how I know this.

Another scenario: you are hauling firewood out of the woods. It has been cut to 16" length & you are bringing it to an area where you do the splitting. You start up a steep incline & the round logettes roll to the back of the trailer, lifting the tongue and removing some of the weight from the rear axle - not a lot, just enough to lose traction, and if you happen to have forgotten to put the tractor in 4wd, you suddenly realize that you have lost your braking ability. I leave the outcome of this scenario to your imagination. Again, please don't ask.

For the reasons listed, I have learned to:

1) Secure the 3 point hitch to the fixed drawbar, using the method shown, to ensure that the tongue cannot lift beyond where I think it should, whenever using the tractor to move a trailer:

View attachment 416523

2) Secure the load to the trailer to ensure that the CG cannot move to a location aft of the rear axle.

-Jim

Jim,

Thanks for honestly sharing your "school of hard knocks" experiences. I must admit I would never have envisioned those scenarios on my own, but can clearly see how they could happen, once you described them.

I know "they" say "a picture is worth a thousand words," but I don't have any experience with 3-point hitches, and the picture you posted is so small that I am unable to "dope out" what it is you did that prevents the 3-point from rising, as you described.

Do you have any way of posting a bigger pic and/or (preferably both) explaining how what you did prevents the hiking up of the 3-point, under the conditions described? (Or maybe someone else has a similar setup and/or could explain it for us "3-point-challeged guys?") LOL

Thanks much,

My Hoe

 

[teg]

..."they" say "a picture is worth a thousand words,"...

A safety chain like this one from the internet:

View attachment 416525

 

[Baby Grand]

My Hoe -
Will do. I grabbed that photo off the internets.
I took the original photo, but it's not loaded on this machine, so finding a high res copy may take a little while.
And both of the failure modes that I described came as complete surprises to me, so don't feel alone in not foreseeing them as possibilities.
It's funny, how seemingly very simple systems can suddenly become much more complicated when you use them.
-Jim

p.s. Found it - same idea as teg posted:

 

[MattEffinCameron]

Thanks for all the great info! especially about trailering with the 3ph!

Bucket hooks are also a great idea.

With regards to the quick attach...I was reading here on the forums that kubota part number B1658 is the quick attach designed for the LA504, but that it fits the LA364 just fine...have any of you tried this?

 

[s219]

Thanks for all the great info! especially about trailering with the 3ph!

Bucket hooks are also a great idea.

With regards to the quick attach...I was reading here on the forums that kubota part number B1658 is the quick attach designed for the LA504, but that it fits the LA364 just fine...have any of you tried this?

I believe some people have done this. If I remember right, the QA was from a B3200 loader.