B&S Vangard

[Geochurchi]

Hi All, we have an issue with parasitic currents that is killing the battery, after doing a lot of TS the only way to get the load back to 0 was to remove the positive lead on the alternator, we replaced the regulator/ rectifier with one from another engine, same results, battery is new, current draw was 2.29 amps alternator was putting out 13.5 +/- .
Any thoughts?
Geo

 

[tomplum]

Welcome to TBN. You could give more info on the machine, engine model, type, regulator # etc. The ideal system is designed that the voltage regulator "shuts down" and keeps this from happening. Aftermarket regulators have a bad rap so you could verify that you have an OEM regulator. The fact is that SOME of the OEMs permit a draw, even from new. You could move the 12V lead from the regulator to a switched circuit such as lights or the carb solenoid circuit possibly without issue.

 

[RandyT]

Welcome to TBN. You could give more info on the machine, engine model, type, regulator # etc. The ideal system is designed that the voltage regulator "shuts down" and keeps this from happening. Aftermarket regulators have a bad rap so you could verify that you have an OEM regulator. The fact is that SOME of the OEMs permit a draw, even from new. You could move the 12V lead from the regulator to a switched circuit such as lights or the carb solenoid circuit possibly without issue.

Not recommended by most engine manufacturers. Some OEM's will run it through the key but some engine manufacturers will tell you to remove that system and run directly to the battery. Less than 100 milliamps draw is normal and will not run the battery down even over a several month period.

And to the OP model info for both the engine and equipment would be helpful.

 

[BravoXray]

If it's drawing over 2 amps when when the key is off, and only putting out 13.5 volts when running, the alternator is defective. They should put out at least 14 volts when charging a lead acid battery.

 

[Geochurchi]

Hi Guys, just a update on this problem, engine run on was due to the fact the ground connection to the coils was broken off , repaired and all is well, anti backfire solenoid is working, as stated previously this engine is running a hydraulic pump that drives a small locomotive, the alternator on the B&S , regulator/ rectifier, are functioning fine, there is an additional 1 wire alternator in parallel to provide more power to drive the other accessories.
yesterday I had the new battery load tested,OK , installed the fully charged battery retested for any current leak and all was fine, will see how things go this AM.

 

[Geochurchi]

Hi All , ended up replacing the alternator, my concern is paralleling this add on Delco Remy 1 wire alternator with the onboard B&S regulator/rectifier charging system.
Geo

 

[Richard001]

If you have room, I would suggest a second battery to be charged by the Delco alternator.

 

[Geochurchi]

update, problem hopefully solved, discovered yesterday that the engine RPMS were low and not producing the rated output voltage, increased RPMS, removed the add on alternator and things seem to be fine now.