Automatic entry gates - DIY

plowhog · Jun 17, 2021

I want to add an automatic entry gate. Two 7' bi-parting gates, outward swing. 14' width totall. One exit loop, and an entry keypad on a gooseneck. I will probably have two rock columns to the outside of each gate post, but might instead do a rock wall.

My asphalt driveway has been removed, so now is the time for any additional prep. I've run hi/lo voltage conduit to each post, and lo voltage conduit to the loop and entry keypad. I will also excavate the holes for posts, columns, and entry keypad.

Regarding the gates, my question is whether installing the posts, columns, gates, swing-arms, etc. for an automatic gate is a DIY type project I should tackle. I've watched videos from gatedepot.com. They look self explanatory but it also seems there are many ways for something to get out of tolerance or go haywire. I'm not sure if I should contract with a fence/gate company instead. All of them here are backed up weeks or months just to come out and give me a quote.

Have you installed your own automatic gate, or hired someone, and what was your experience?

bmaverick · Jun 17, 2021

A few companies offer DIY kits. I would recommend the kits using the Warner Linear actuators as these are strong enough to even push a few inches of snow at the bottom of the gate. It just depends on the height of the gate off the ground, the length of gate (14FT is ideal), and how balanced the gate is on a leveled post.

Here's an example of a HD push arm.

Sentry Gate Opener

www.sentrygateopener.com

Diggin It · Jun 17, 2021

I did mine. Piece of cake. Single gate, but I can't see why a double would be much different. Keep the posts plumb and make sure you account for the width of the gate(s) both open and closed. Make sure they operate freely with no resistance before starting on mounting the operators.

I wish I had run conduit under the driveway before it was blacktopped. Oh well.

plowhog · Jun 17, 2021

Diggin It said:
Keep the posts plumb

Funny, that was one of the things that made me question if I should have a contractor involved. The videos suggest purposely making them out of plumb, by 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch, depending on which video you watch. To account for future sag from the weight of the hanging gate.

Diggin It · Jun 17, 2021

When I say keep them plumb, I mean keep them plumb. That may mean additional posts further back with cross bracing and fencing as in the picture above, or as in my case, guy wires and turnbuckles that can be adjusted to KEEP them plumb.

PuffyC · Jun 17, 2021

I've installed a Ghost Controls kit and it was super easy. Aside from the gates themselves, if you can read and turn a wrench you can install a set of openers.

bmaverick · Jun 17, 2021

plowhog said:
... my question is whether installing the posts, columns, gates, swing-arms, etc. for an automatic gate is a DIY type project I should tackle. I've watched videos from gatedepot.com. They look self explanatory but it also seems there are many ways for something to get out of tolerance or go haywire. I'm not sure if I should contract with a fence/gate company instead. All of them here are backed up weeks or months just to come out and give me a quote.

Have you installed your own automatic gate, or hired someone, and what was your experience?

I've installed many gates and posts. To many to really want to count. No two setups ever were identical. The ground soil is a key aspect of how to set posts.

Sandy soil - deeper to set the posts 4FT+, gravel and concrete. This is a very timely event and takes the most labor.

Mixed soil - 4FT deep, gravel and T-slots in the hole. This prevents the need for extra cross bracing above. Cornel and UKY exts both have diagrams to learn from.

Clay soil - 3FT deep or deeper. gravel.

Rock and soil - Hire a contractor with the right equipment. I've done this and it's a real struggle.

I tend to limit the length of the gates to no more than 14FT. And that is with a guide wheel assembly furthest out. I don't use store bought either. Much of the time the ground is gravel or pasture. So, casted wheels last the longest. https://www.menards.com/main/hardwa...-rigid-caster-wheel/3061m/p-1444442245544.htm

Other than a swing arm type of gate, a sliding gate works just as nice. Basically a motor with a rubberized friction wheel. For a Tarter or Behum Country gate in my first post, the top tube with a mounted extension would work.

plowhog · Jun 17, 2021

Diggin It said:
I wish I had run conduit under the driveway before it was blacktopped.

I just trenched and ran everything from one side to the other.

Has your gate sagged any since you installed it?

Here is a pix of the type of gate I want to install, but maybe a little different style.

grsthegreat · Jun 17, 2021

I have a 300 - 400# steel gate that will have an automatic opener some day. It’s mounted to a 5”x5” x 1/4” steel post buried 4 feet in ground with about 1/2 yard of concrete. I was pouring some slabs and had them top off a load so the concrete didn’t cost me anything. This gate will never sag. I have power to gate, but never get the incentive to add the opener. I plan on putting in a real base mounted opener, not an actuator. I can’t stand waiting for those things to open a gate.

TractorGuy · Jun 18, 2021

About 5 years ago I did a pair of 10' farm gates with Mighty Mule openers. I set 6/7 round posts from Tractor Supply and tamped dry concrete mix around them. Haven't had any sagging but if I did the hinges could be adjusted to compensate. Make sure and get your gates and measure carefully before setting the posts. Farm gates are not actually the width they are sold as. The measurement includes the hinges. The easiest way to do it is lay the gates on the ground where you want them then set the posts.

Mine are run on a 12V lawn tractor battery with a 30W solar panel. I put wireless keypads on the outside and inside. Since you are doing outswing you need to set your keypad post far enough out to have room for the gates to open. I originally tried the aluminum keypad post sold by MM but it was flimsy so I switched to plain old 4x4s for the keypads. My outside keypad post is set just far enough to allow someone to pull up to it and be out of the road. My inner keypad post is a good 20 feet from the gates since they are inswing.

I set my gates far enough in to pull my truck and trailer in out of the road so I won't block anyone while they open.