Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ?

/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #1  

GrayBeard

Gold Member
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Nov 14, 2003
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Pa.
This is specifically about a quick detach bach hoe but could be for any hydraulic attachment.
I un-hooked my hoe the other day with no problem. After, I wondered how hard it will be to hook up with pressure on the lines as the outriggers and boom are used to support the hoe when disconnected.
Are the "quick connects" going to be next to impossible to make when I put it back on ?
Thanks,
GrayBeard
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #2  
I have had a few instances with this happening, just like you describe. And yes it is impossible with pressure in the line. Check for pressure build up first buy pressing the QD in with your fingers, if it opens, no pressure, if it doesn't then line is pressurised. The best way to remedy this is to make sure the implement is fully supported and tap/whack/smash (whatever force is required /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif) the ends of the QD couplers with a hammer. If it is a female QD then put a bolt in there and hit the head of the bolt. Watch out for the pressurised oil though, it comes out VERY fast and goes everywhere! Wear goggles to be on the safe side.
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #3  
I had my TC-40D only a week and I disconnected my backhoe without equalizing the pressure before I pulled the disconnects. When I went to reconnect there was no way a gorilla could have made the connection with the pressure in the hydraulic lines. My dealer was nice enough to come out and show me an easy trick. He loosened the quick coupler with an appropriate open end wrench, then wrapped a LARGE rag around it before he spun it off the threads. The rag contained the oil and I learned a valuable lesson on how not to unhook a backhoe.
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #4  
You can certainly loosen the coupler with a wrench, although I've never done that. However, I've used IH 4 Me's method except that I wrapped a rag around the fitting and the drift pin (which I used instead of a bolt) before tapping it with a hammer; lost only the tiniest bit of oil doing that.
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I'm sure I'll have a lesson "learned "as well.
Right now the backhoe is supported by the hydrualics.
If I let off some pressure I'll have to have it blocked up well or it may "upset".
I may try a floor jack to relax the outriggers; 'not sure about the boom.
GrayBeard
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #6  
The above advise is all good. Another thing that you could do is get a different set of male ends. The ones that are normally put on everything have a round ball like end on them. There are some that have a pointed tit instead of a ball. They will hook up under more pressure easier than the ball ones.
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #7  
GrayBeard just be awfully careful. If the hydraulics are indeed still supporting the BH somethings going to give as you start releasing pressure. Shore it up with solid lumber or a jack so it doesn't go over on you.
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #8  
You may want to try some new hydraulic couplers. The Safeway S-70 series are 'connect under pressure' couplings. I've used the 'smack the ball on anything that will relieve the pressure' trick in the past. Messy, but it works.

Here's the link to safeway, I think Pioneer makes similar fittings.

http://www.safewayhyd.com/ag.htm

Jim
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for the comments.
There should be a "trick" because the hydraulic system is meant to support the hoe.
I can get pressure off the outriggers but I think that's going to put more on the boom. The dipper arm is laid back on about a 45 degree angle.
Well, I've got awhile to think it over. The blower is on right now.
One plus is it's outside (covered), in case I had a "problem". There's plenty of room to work.
I've got a friend with a 50 hp, JD with a loader. I may pick the whole thing up.
Thanks,
GrayBeard
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #10  
GrayBeard,
I would wait and try to hook up the hoses before you worry about it to much.
I often remove the backhoe without blocking it and rarely have any problems with pressure on the lines when reattaching.
If the backhoe is removed for a long period of time I will block it .(only because the outrigger and boom cylinders will eventually leak off )
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #11  
GreyBeard, Thank you for this post. I am going to take off my backhoe for the first time in a couple of weeks. Your post made me read the owner's manually very slow and sure enough there it was, I might have missed it, #8-#11, lower unit to ground....shut off engine......release all hydraulic pressure by moving backhoe hydraulic control levers in all directions....disconnect hydraulic hoses...
For some reason I had mistakenly envisioned the stabilizer bars and bucket holding the unit up.
Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #12  
I would assume that the valve bank goes with the backhoe, correct? As long as you don't move any of the valve control levers, the pressure is confined to the hoses between the valves and the cylinders under load (except any small amount of leakage through the valve).

Any pressure that is in the supply line from the tractor should be able to be relieved by actuating a non-supporting circuit such as the swing cylinder.

If you do relieve the pressure from the supply hose, again, as long as all the control valves stay closed, the cylinders are not going to move anywhere.

I have had similar issues with the front loader, but there the valves do stay with the tractor. I had parked a trailer wheel on one of the bucket teeth. I figured I could connect the loader and simply pull it out from under the trailer. The pressure in the bucket curl cylinder, however prevented making the quick-connect mate.

The JD quick-connect tips turned out to be rather fragile. The tapping the end trick worked to remove the pressure, but it also removed the tip spring retaining clip.

The lift cylinder connector had been replaced twice already due to the clip failing during actual use. When the spring clip fails, the tip is no longer able to open the other side of the connection on the tractor, and no flow happens, so the loader stops moving.

I ended up making a modification to the failed connectors - I put two small nuts inside of it to hold the valve tip spring in place when it was screwed back on. Now, the tiny little fragile retaining clip is not an issue.

On a safety note, I would recommend lowering the unit to the ground prior to disconnecting the hoses as described in the instructions posted. Some kids might think its cool to play with the control levers and might manage to cause the unit to tip over on themselves, etc.

You can always use the hydraulics to raise it back up and align it with the quick-connect after reconnecting the hoses.

- Rick
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Looking back now, probably would have been better to lower everything to the ground.
The manual has a "novel" about installation of the hoe and about 2 sentences about un-hooking.
I tried to go backwards thru the installation but I didn't make the assumption every thing should rest on the ground.
I'll get it sooner or later and if not, my lovely wife said "she'll plant some flowers around it" (lawn ornament)... lol
I'll check it out for leaking down tomorrow and stick some blocks under it .
GrayBeard
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #14  
Be safe.

I think Keeney has it right, the hyd block on your hoe will keep everything pretty stable, but there will be a bit of leaking over the winter & you may have some pressure in 1 of the hoses.

Assuming this, (as I said, be careful, and _know_ that your hoe will stay standing, don't depend on my assumption) you can tap the ball on the hyd hose to release a tiny bit of very messy oil..... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I would never use a hammer or drift pin, any tiny scratch on that ball will lead to leaking & dripping. Use a scrap of 2x4, tap it pretty hard. If that doesn't work, you can lay the piece of wood on the ball, & pound a hammer onto the wood. But don't put metal directly onto the ball or you will damage it. They need a perfect round mirror finish.

The tips that connect under pressure work well too if this is a constant problem & you have the money to spend - they aren't cheap. Depends if you attach 2 times or 200 times a year. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #15  
GreyBeard, I found where I got the idea of the stabilizers and bucket holding up the unit on disconnect. See <font color="red"> this. </font> I got this photo from this forum back in June. If the owner of this backhoe sees this post - Did you also have trouble connecting the hydraulic line when you put it back on the tractor? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
/ Attachments with hydraulic cyclinders ? #16  
I know the boss has had problems with hit JD like this, my hoe uses a PTO powered pump which sepperated the HYD system of the hoe and tractor... MUCH NICER, though it does take the removal and re-bolting of the pump (4 bolts in and out each time.) It works well and if I ever want I can use the pump for othere things if I want to add a different resovour say as a log splitter. my CUT JINMA does not have pressure out the rear anyhow. it does have a pressure on raise with gravity return, it works nice for my dump trailer...

I'm planning on adding an extra set of valves but not untill i HAVE to spend the $... then I'll opt for a 3 level setup so I can latter add a hyd top link and side link. make running that box blade a charm! lol

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
 

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