Asphalt sealers

/ Asphalt sealers #1  

_RaT_

Super Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2000
Messages
5,855
Location
Peoples Republic of Northern CA.
Tractor
Kioti 3510-SE HST
Any comments about who makes a great sealer for my asphalt driveway. Are some better then others?
Do you seal yours?
 
/ Asphalt sealers #2  
I have stone now so I dont seal anything /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I used to do it for a living and the only thing I can think of is make sure you get a coal tar emulsion type sealer. Anything else is paint. Brush it in to the little imperfections with a broom. You can make a swirly patteren with it if you want. If th imperfections are deep, add fine sand to your mix.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #3  
The best would be a hot tack spray covered with sand/chips and rolled. Takes a contractor for proper equipment To do this.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Asphalt sealers #4  
Lots of county roads get a "chip seal" like Egon mentioned.

Lasts a few of years in our temperate climate so you shouldn't be to far from the same.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #5  
You know, I've wondered about this for a while - why do people seal a residential driveway? (other than for that nice black appearance) They don't seal asphalt roads, and those are expected to last for decades, under considerably more traffic than a driveway..........
 
/ Asphalt sealers #7  
Hmmm . . . makes me wonder if I should just spray all my used Diesel oil over my driveway. Between the truck and the tractor I have lots of it.

Probably not environmentally friendly though.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Asphalt sealers #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( spray all my used Diesel oil )</font>

Asphalt is a bituminous based product. Parrifin based petroleums like diesel, motor oil etc. will dissolve the asphalt and leave you with a gravel drive! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The article refered to in the one post may be lacking some data.

Egon
 
/ Asphalt sealers #9  
You seal a asphalt driveway so that it lasts AND to make it a uniform color.

The asphalt wears off the stone and water can get between the stones and to the base. This will crack the asphalt. It will crack faster if you are in a freeze thaw area. If you have ever seen "alligator back" cracks on a drive way that is water getting through to a (mostly) pocket of clay.

Tar and chip is basicly a road way seal coat. It, like a coal tar emulsion, bonds with the asphalt and fills the cracks. It gives you a few more years.

A good crack filler is something to get before you seal because the whole idea is to fill the cracks. The sealer fills the ones you really dont notice and the filler does the big ones.

That help?

The only things you really need is a coal tar emulsion and a one time use broom to brush it in. Add a crack filler if needed.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #10  
I design and research highway pavements for a living, and most of the arguments for driveway sealing sound like BS to me.

If you don't have a free-draining material underneath the asphalt, then that material will get wet no matter how well-sealed the asphalt is. Think of a tarp left on a lawn overnight - it gets wet underneath because it's a barier to the moisture coming out of the ground. An asphalt pavement works the same way. Water will get underneath a pavement whether it comes up from below or down from above - the critical thing is having a way to drain that moisture away.

Asphalt will oxidize and get hard from UV exposure leading to thermal cracking and poor bonding between the asphalt binder and aggregate. This problem is more severe on pavements that don't get much traffic. The reason for this is poorly understood. Many people think that the kneading action of tires slows down or reverses the oxidation process. The oxidized layer doesn't wear away as many sealant manufaturers claim, though.

On highways, asphalt pavements that become oxidized are usually treated with a thin overlay of asphalt concrete, or a surface treatment such as the "tar and chip" that was mentioned ("tar and chip" is a misnomer because in the US at least the binder is an asphalt emulsion, not tar) - other common surface treatments are fog seals (like chip seals but using sand instead of stone), slurry seals and micropaving. Generally, though, highway pavements run into other problems before they get heavily oxidized.

So, I think that the only advantage to sealing a driveway is to protect the asphalt from oxidation. I do not think that any of the sealing products actually reverse the oxidation process. Any sealant should be as good as any other, provided it blocks UV light, though some will undoubtably last longer than others.

As mentioned in a previous reply, spraying asphalt with diesel is not a good idea. Asphalt is refined from petroleum oil, and will disolve in other petrolem products. The diesel will evaporate back out, but in the process may break the bond between the asphalt and aggregate.

I don't know why one would use a coal tar emulsion instead of an asphalt emulsion for sealing. Both tar and asphalt are industrial waste products - asphalt is the gunk in the bottom of the still when all of the good stuff has been distilled out of crude oil. Tar is the gunk you get when coal (or other organic material) is destructively distilled into coke and coal gas. Tar is rarely used in highways in the US because it is very temperature suseptible - meaning that it gets sticky on hot days and brittle on cold days. Tar is cheaper than asphalt, which is probably why it's used on driveways. Both Tar and Asphalt are classified as "Bitumens", although Commonwealth English speakers will often use "Bitumen" and "Asphalt" interchangeably.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #11  
Great info, as always, Toiyabe! Hopefully I'm not the only one that would like for you to elaborate a bit more on the free-draining material under the AC as of primary importance. Or put another way, if one does not have free draining material under the pavement, wouldn't getting water off of and away from the road as quickly and completely as possible be of primary concern? Thus making filling cracks and helping prevent future cracks pretty important, as well as proper grading away from the road. Obviously lack of grade and/or cross slopes would defeat much good done by fixing cracks cuz the water would just sit there and eventually move thru the pavement and undermine the base. Just wondering.
Cheers!
 
/ Asphalt sealers
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Interesting. Why do they constantly have crews both California and Nevada out sealing the many cracks that develop on all the many roads around the Tahoe area?
 
/ Asphalt sealers #13  
The cracks are sealed to prevent water from getting under the pavement and softening the subbase or freezing and making a bigger crack which can turn into a pothole.

Egon
 
/ Asphalt sealers
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well thats what I figured but in reading Toiyabes comment, that would not appear to be what he explains.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #15  
The main purpose of crack sealing/filling is to keep non-compressible material out. There are several different kinds of cracks that can develop in an asphalt pavement. The ones that respond best to crack filling are thermal cracks (generally transverse and regularly spaced). If debris gets into these cracks they can no longer freely shrink, you will get secondary cracking around them as the pavement heats and expands. Once you know what to look for, you'll see this secondary cracking quite often.

Filling cracks other than thermal cracks is a waste of money in my opinion, although it is done frequently. It can also be a saftey hazard if excessive sealant is used while trying to fill aligator cracking - decreases the friction.

Preventing moisture from infiltrating through the surface can't hurt. However, even with a perfectly sealed surface, you'll have a lot of water moving in underneath a pavement. It rises up through capillary action, and then is blocked from evaporating by the pavement itself. This is a problem that's often seen when a dirt road gets paved - you want a higher fines content on a dirt road to keep it knitted together, but when it's sealed off by a pavement the moisture those fines wick up can't escape and the pavement falls apart quickly.

A pavement needs a free-draining base layer (either daylighted to a ditch or with drain pipe) underneath it or it needs to be strong enough to rest on a saturated subgrade. Even here in Reno Nevada you can't count on the subgrade never being saturated.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #16  
While I'm at it, I'll mention that asphalt can also "strip" in the presence of moisture. Basically the bond between asphalt and aggregate can weaken when it is wet for long periods of time. Different asphalt types and aggregate types are more suseptible to this.

Stripping is another arguement for sealing cracks - keeps the moisture from sitting in the crack itself.

There's several schools of thought on crack sealing. My general opinion is that only routing and filling of working cracks is effective, and then only if the number of cracks per mile is low. Otherwise an overlay is a better solution.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #17  
I have to dissagree. If there is capilliary action roads in below freezing climates would be very rough and nearly undrivable due to frost heaves.

A packed clay sub base should prevent capilliary action. The packed gravel layer above this should provide drainage to the ditches. The pavement on top keeps water out so the integrity of the subbase is maintained.

Filling cracks keeps water and other debri out. Chip coats and seal coats also help for this as well as allow more reflection from headlights makeing it easier to drive at night.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Asphalt sealers #18  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If there is capilliary action roads in below freezing climates would be very rough and nearly undrivable due to frost heaves.
)</font>

The accepted theory for frost heaving relys heavily on capillary action. Basically hydrophillic soils like silts and clays develop a suction when the free water around them freezes. This suction draws water up from the water table, assited by capilary action. The heat of fusion from the water that freezes causes the freezing front to stall, resulting in a large buildup in ice at the front ("ice lenses"). It's an interesting thermodynamic problem.

Clays have poor permeability (but high water affinity), so it takes a while for the water to move up from the water table. Therefore it takes long periods of time with consistent, sub-freezing temperatures to get large heaves in clay. Silts have better permeability and can respond to weather conditions quicker, but they can't draw water up as far.
 
/ Asphalt sealers #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A packed clay sub base should prevent capilliary action. )</font>

Capillary rise is a function of pore size. That means that the lower the permeability of a soil, the greater the capilary rise.

Clays can keep moisture from seeping down, but the better they are at that, the further they'll wick moisture up. Weird, eh?
 

Marketplace Items

New/Unused AGT SDA-140W Wheel Loader (A61166)
New/Unused AGT...
Crown RM6025-45 4,500 LB Stand-On Electric Forklift (A59228)
Crown RM6025-45...
Holland Tandem Axle Rear Truck Frame (A61568)
Holland Tandem...
2010 Toyota Rav4 SUV (A61569)
2010 Toyota Rav4...
2018 CATERPILLAR 305.5E2 CR EXCAVATOR (A62129)
2018 CATERPILLAR...
2016 Bobcat E85 Midi Excavator (A56857)
2016 Bobcat E85...
 
Top